302 dipstick

[Buzzsaw]

Is there any trick to installing header on drivers side with dipstick installed? I have tried multiple times to get the header over the dip stick tube bracket (dip stick removed) but no success. Do you have to remove the dipstick assembly to install the header? If the dipstick assembly is removed can it be reinstalled and not leak? Dipstick assembly = dipstick tube and welded bracket and dipstick
Thanks!
Ross

[PG_Cobra]

The dipstick tube pulls out of the block, no o rings. If you have difficulty inserting after header assembly you may need to change from the Ford dipstick to an aftermarket one. I ended up with a Lokar dipstick assembly that comes up between the header pipes. Expensive but it works. There are other makes out there that I believe are lower cost.

[Buzzsaw]

The dipstick tube pulls out of the block, no o rings. If you have difficulty inserting after header assembly you may need to change from the Ford dipstick to an aftermarket one. I ended up with a Lokar dipstick assembly that comes up between the header pipes. Expensive but it works. There are other makes out there that I believe are lower cost.

Thanks PG-Cobra! If there is no O ring or membrane, just a metal to metal fit prevents an oil leak?
Thanks Ross

[narly1]

Also if you do end up installing a new different dipstick, take the time to "calibrate" its length against that of the old one.

Earl

[PG_Cobra]

Thanks PG-Cobra! If there is no O ring or membrane, just a metal to metal fit prevents an oil leak?
Thanks Ross

Yes, metal to metal with the Ford part. It doesn't leak (much). The Lokar part I installed has an O ring and fully seals. All that being said I have an under car exhaust with hugger headers from Speedway heading down between the frame and the engine. Space is tight but the Kovar part still fit.

[MB750]

Thanks PG-Cobra! If there is no O ring or membrane, just a metal to metal fit prevents an oil leak?
Thanks Ross

Just put a bead of RTV on the tube, should seal up nicely.

[Buzzsaw]

Also if you do end up installing a new different dipstick, take the time to "calibrate" its length against that of the old one.

Earl

Thanks Earl, you’re right there are so many dipsticks out there. It would be bad to find out you run a few thousand miles a quart low!

[Buzzsaw]

Yes, metal to metal with the Ford part. It doesn't leak (much). The Lokar part I installed has an O ring and fully seals. All that being said I have an under car exhaust with hugger headers from Speedway heading down between the frame and the engine. Space is tight but the Kovar part still fit.

I looked at a 302 crate engine only dip stick assembly this morning and it was metal to metal. I will try to make the factory stick work and look at Lokar as a secondary option. Thanks for your help PG!

[Buzzsaw]

Just put a bead of RTV on the tube, should seal up nicely.

Thanks Matt.

[MB750]

Thanks Matt.

One of the tricks I do with RTV is spray both surfaces down with carb cleaner or acetone before applying the RTV. It pretty much guarantees a good seal.

I know you shouldn't spray carb cleaner into the dip stick hole, so maybe use a Q-tip or something like that to clean the surface.

[Buzzsaw]

Thanks Matt!!!

[Malibu46pt]

I have a Blue Print 302 the dip stick has 2 different diameters before the stop ring. The second diameter from the end will not fit into the block. I was assuming the dipstick should go all the way to the large ring. Are you seeing the same issue?

[Buzzsaw]

I have a Blue Print 302 the dip stick has 2 different diameters before the stop ring. The second diameter from the end will not fit into the block. I was assuming the dipstick should go all the way to the large ring. Are you seeing the same issue?

Hi Malibu, I have a Ford Boss 302 block so it may be different from the block blue print uses. I only have one diameter size before one stop ring. My dipstick goes into the stop ring but fits loosely.