Flywheel

[rich grsc]

Well, in the spirit of don’t be like me, Jeff’s comments got me to thinking some more. Assumptions get me every time. I probably watched a half dozen videos about how to install clutch and fly wheel and all that sort of stuff. I missed the part where they told me which way to face the clutch plate. Apparently, the hat side of the clutch plate needs to face towards the pressure plate and not the fly wheel. So, I may have been extra cool and bent the clutch plate as well. Will run over to shop and check in a bit.

In the mean time kids, in almost every application for our cars, the clutch hat side goes towards the pressure plate and the transmission, not the flywheel and engine. Whee!

I'm sorry, don't see how anyone could make that kind of mistake. The clutch plate can't even set against the flywheel surface like that

[danmas]

@ Rich -- Never underestimate my ability to do it wrong. That said, I know a little bit more than I did a few minutes ago and I will know more tomorrow. I am not doing this because I am any good at any of this stuff, and I presume that most people don't know their butt from a flywheel when they first start out. I certainly don't. Or didn't.

All that said and with this in mind, here is what I think is correct. Before I tighten anything down, could you folks review?Flywheel.jpgClutchPlate.jpgPressurePlate.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

All that said and with this in mind, here is what I think is correct. Before I tighten anything down, could you folks review?

Stop! You're missing the pressure plate locating dowels in the flywheel. They position the PP precisely. If you don't have them and simply rely on the bolts to locate it there's a real good chance that it will be off center and vibrate...perhaps a lot.

Here's a Ford flywheel with the 3 dowels installed.



Also, you didn't tell us what engine you're dealing with. If it's a 302 based Windsor you must use sealer on the flywheel bolts. The holes in the crank are drilled threaded all the way through and without sealer crankcase oil can leak through onto the clutch.

Jeff

[danmas]

Stop! You're missing the pressure plate locating dowels in the flywheel. They position the PP precisely. If you don't have them and simply rely on the bolts to locate it there's a real good chance that it will be off center and vibrate...perhaps a lot.

Here's a Ford flywheel with the 3 dowels installed.



Also, you didn't tell us what engine you're dealing with. If it's a 302 based Windsor you must use sealer on the flywheel bolts. The holes in the crank are drilled threaded all the way through and without sealer crankcase oil can leak through onto the clutch.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

This is the FlyWheel: RAM Billet Steel Flywheels 1529
The Engine is a 351W bored and stroked to a 427.

I read somewhere that the shoulders on the pressure plate bolts replace the dowels. That said, you are the expert.

This is the kit I am using:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-CSUMFFC07

I think what I need to do is apply the lube to the flywheel bolts and then locktite after that (The lube goes on the end). Happy to use dowels as well but don't have a clue what I need. Suggestions?

Update: I talked to Summit racing and they didn't really know one way or the other, so I am going with the Kleinerators recommendation and I just ordered RAM Clutches 563 - RAM Dowel Pins

Thanks!
Dan

[StangRacer]

Hi Jeff,

This is the FlyWheel: RAM Billet Steel Flywheels 1529
The Engine is a 351W bored and stroked to a 427.

I read somewhere that the shoulders on the pressure plate bolts replace the dowels. That said, you are the expert.

This is the kit I am using:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-CSUMFFC07

I think what I need to do is apply the lube to the flywheel bolts and then locktite after that (The lube goes on the end). Happy to use dowels as well but don't have a clue what I need. Suggestions?

Update: I talked to Summit racing and they didn't really know one way or the other, so I am going with the Kleinerators recommendation and I just ordered RAM Clutches 563 - RAM Dowel Pins

Thanks!
Dan

Good choice... I wouldn't rely on the shoulders of the bolt to locate the pressure plate.

Also, you mentioned putting Loctite on the pressure plate bolts. The torque applied to the bolt, or more appropriately the screw, causes the screw to stretch. It is this stretch of the screw that keeps the screw tight as the result of the friction by the screw being in constant tension. If you use red Loctite you are going to have to heat that screw with a torch to remove it when you eventually replace your clutch. Just something to keep in mind...

[Mike.Bray]

Also, you mentioned putting Loctite on the pressure plate bolts. The torque applied to the bolt, or more appropriately the screw, causes the screw to stretch. It is this stretch of the screw that keeps the screw tight as the result of the friction by the screw being in constant tension. If you use red Loctite you are going to have to heat that screw with a torch to remove it when you eventually replace your clutch. Just something to keep in mind...

^^^What he said^^^ It's called Hook's Law.

That's why you shouldn't just swap bolts around willy nilly, each bolt with a different tensile strength will have a different torque rating. I would go with ARP pressure plate bolts and use their recommended torque so you know you get the appropriate amount of stretch.