Need a solution to secure the Halibrand knock-off hub from spinning

[MPTech]

I've done a couple searches, but coming up empty.

I've been running 17" FFR Halibrands with the fake spinners. I had them silconed in and this worked well for 11+ years, but the silicone broke loose on the front wheel last night and I had a heck of a time removing it without damaging something. I was successful, but want to avoid that going forward.

I saw posts a while back (years ago) about drilling and installing set-screws(?). Guessing this involves drilling and tapping the hubs, but tightening the set screw looks like it's going to be challenge. 1 set-screw or 2 per hub? size?
Details and/or alternatives would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!!

[gbranham]

Spinner 5.jpgSpinner 6.jpgSpinner 4.jpgSpinner 9.jpgSpinner 7.jpgSpinner 8.jpgI have an alternative for you. I just bought 18" Halibrands from FFR, and I'm not going to use my spinners or the hubs that come with them. They have a set screw to hold them in place. If they would fit your 17" wheels, I'm happy to make you a deal on them. Never been out of their boxes.

Spinner 3.jpgSpinner 2.jpgSpinner 1.jpg

[michael everson]

Are you on FB? I post a solution on factory five builder a couple months ago.
mike

[Papa]

SJDave made a set of these for me and they work great:

[TTimmy]

I put a big o-ring around the part that goes on the backside of the wheel and push that onto the wheel. Seems to be enough to hold it in place so I can tighten the spinner without anything moving. Michael Everson's solutions looks a bit more solid though.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I use silicone sealer. Put it around the inside of the wheel then push the hub in. Let it dry & you are good to go.

[MPTech]

WARNING to all of the guys using silcon, rtv, O-ring, and pool noodles. The primary solution with these methods is to hold the hub against the wheel, so you can start the spinner.
The problem with these is they don't address the other problem, the hub spinning. I had my hubs siliconed to the wheels for over 11 years and worked great, until the silicon let loose. I had a bead all the way around the hubs and also use anti-sieze on them religously (I think this may have attributed to the problem). Yes, the anti-sieze prevented galling, but it also made the hub/spinner more difficut to turn.
I think there needs to be some kind of mechanical solution (ie: pin drilled thru the hub and slightly into the wheel, then held in place with silicon, rtv, O-ring, or pool noodles.

[boat737]

My post is #16 on this thread....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...uring-spinners

[michael everson]

I may have found a simple solution to the rotating wheel spinner hub. All you need is 4 spring pins (McMaster-Carr # 98296A891) and 4 internal retaining rings ( McMaster-Carr # 99142A630.
Drill a 5/32 hole in the spinner retainer and install the spring pin. Then just drop it in the wheel and install the retaining ring with the pin in the opening. I couldn’t rotate the retainer once installed. Should be a cheap and simple fix. Let me know your thoughts.

[egchewy79]

I think Mike's snap ring solution is a winner. I've seen someone on there who machines a ring option as well.
Alternatively, you could drill a couple of holes in the end of the hub and use a tool like you get with an angle grinder to hold the hub in place while you knock off the spinner.

[Papa]

I think Mike's snap ring solution is a winner. I've seen someone on there who machines a ring option as well.
Alternatively, you could drill a couple of holes in the end of the hub and use a tool like you get with an angle grinder to hold the hub in place while you knock off the spinner.

The machined rings SJDave made for me are what I tried to post pictures of, but the site isn't displaying any of my embedded pics right now. The rings create a mechanical connection to both the inside of the wheel and the back side of the spinner hub.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post333828

[BEAR-AvHistory]

WARNING to all of the guys using silcon, rtv, O-ring, and pool noodles. The primary solution with these methods is to hold the hub against the wheel, so you can start the spinner.
The problem with these is they don't address the other problem, the hub spinning. I had my hubs siliconed to the wheels for over 11 years and worked great, until the silicon let loose. I had a bead all the way around the hubs and also use anti-sieze on them religously (I think this may have attributed to the problem). Yes, the anti-sieze prevented galling, but it also made the hub/spinner more difficut to turn.
I think there needs to be some kind of mechanical solution (ie: pin drilled thru the hub and slightly into the wheel, then held in place with silicon, rtv, O-ring, or pool noodles.

Have only been using it for 10 years but so far no issues getting the knock-off off. I do a fresh install any time I pull the wheel with a touch of anti seize. Think there are a number of solutions to the hub spinning so make the choice thats best for you.

[JohnK]

I also have SJDave's machined rings and they're brilliant. They're a great way to positively hold the spinner hub in place without having to drill and tap the wheel. Other solutions like silicone and pool noodles may work for a while... until they don't.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I don't use anti-seize on the threads. Although it prevents the hub and spinner from seizing together the combination of the thick anti seize and the dust & dirt that sticks to it causes enough resistance between the two to often result in the hub spinning making removal difficult. Instead of anti seize I use a dry graphite spray. The parts spin together and disassemble with minimal resistance without galling.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Oh, one other thing...do away with the setscrews in the spinners. Even with their plastic tips they can deform the threads on the hub which makes it difficult to unscrew them. If you put the spinners on the correct sides...LH thread on the right side of the car and RH threads on the left side...the wheels forward rotation naturally keeps them tight. To clarify, the spinner boxes are labeled "RH" and "LH" that does NOT refer to the side of the car that they go on, it indicates right hand thread and left hand thread. Probably 50% of the cars that I get in here have them wrong.

Jeff

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I don't use anti-seize on the threads. Although it prevents the hub and spinner from seizing together the combination of the thick anti seize and the dust & dirt that sticks to it causes enough resistance between the two to often result in the hub spinning making removal difficult. Instead of anti seize I use a dry graphite spray. The parts spin together and disassemble with minimal resistance without galling.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Oh, one other thing...do away with the setscrews in the spinners. Even with their plastic tips they can deform the threads on the hub which makes it difficult to unscrew them. If you put the spinners on the correct sides...LH thread on the right side of the car and RH threads on the left side...the wheels forward rotation naturally keeps them tight. To clarify, the spinner boxes are labeled "RH" and "LH" that does NOT refer to the side of the car that they go on, it indicates right hand thread and left hand thread. Probably 50% of the cars that I get in here have them wrong.

Jeff

Good info on the graphite spray. Will try that next time.

[SJDave]

PM me if you want a set, $85 + shipping. Probably make 10 sets, 3 are spoken for. 4 weeks to ship due to Cataract Surgery

[Benchwarmer]

Spinner 5.jpgSpinner 6.jpgSpinner 4.jpgSpinner 9.jpgSpinner 7.jpgSpinner 8.jpgI have an alternative for you. I just bought 18" Halibrands from FFR, and I'm not going to use my spinners or the hubs that come with them. They have a set screw to hold them in place. If they would fit your 17" wheels, I'm happy to make you a deal on them. Never been out of their boxes.

Spinner 3.jpgSpinner 2.jpgSpinner 1.jpg

Aae you going to use the lug nut covers?

[gbranham]

Aae you going to use the lug nut covers?

I am not. It's all available if someone is interested!

[Benchwarmer]

I am not. It's all available if someone is interested!

Would you be willing to sell them separately? If so, I will take them!

[MisterAdam]

I may have found a simple solution to the rotating wheel spinner hub. All you need is 4 spring pins (McMaster-Carr # 98296A891) and 4 internal retaining rings ( McMaster-Carr # 99142A630.
Drill a 5/32 hole in the spinner retainer and install the spring pin. Then just drop it in the wheel and install the retaining ring with the pin in the opening. I couldn’t rotate the retainer once installed. Should be a cheap and simple fix. Let me know your thoughts.

Replaced ten year old tires yesterday so gave this a shot. Cleaned off all the old silicone, neversieze and used a little dry lube. Assembled very easily but I will let you know in ten years how they come off. Thanks Mike…………again

[gbranham]

Would you be willing to sell them separately? If so, I will take them!

You bet. Send me a PM and we'll make it happen!

Greg

[Build14fun]

I don't use anti-seize on the threads. Although it prevents the hub and spinner from seizing together the combination of the thick anti seize and the dust & dirt that sticks to it causes enough resistance between the two to often result in the hub spinning making removal difficult. Instead of anti seize I use a dry graphite spray. The parts spin together and disassemble with minimal resistance without galling.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Oh, one other thing...do away with the setscrews in the spinners. Even with their plastic tips they can deform the threads on the hub which makes it difficult to unscrew them. If you put the spinners on the correct sides...LH thread on the right side of the car and RH threads on the left side...the wheels forward rotation naturally keeps them tight. To clarify, the spinner boxes are labeled "RH" and "LH" that does NOT refer to the side of the car that they go on, it indicates right hand thread and left hand thread. Probably 50% of the cars that I get in here have them wrong.

Jeff

So does this mean when I tighten the spinners on my car they should spin to the back of the car to tighten?

[egchewy79]

So does this mean when I tighten the spinners on my car they should spin to the back of the car to tighten?

yup. I just remember "tight a$$", so turning towards the rear should tighten the spinners.
theoretically they should not loosen while driving forward when installed this way.

[Jeff Kleiner]

So does this mean when I tighten the spinners on my car they should spin to the back of the car to tighten?

Yes! I just go hand tight plus a tap with a plastic mallet.

Jeff

[BEAR-AvHistory]

So does this mean when I tighten the spinners on my car they should spin to the back of the car to tighten?

As Jeff said YES. You want the natural force of the wheel running forward to keep pressure on the spinner. If they are put on the other way tight forward the wheel rotation is unloading some pressure.

[MPTech]

I may have found a simple solution to the rotating wheel spinner hub. All you need is 4 spring pins (McMaster-Carr # 98296A891) and 4 internal retaining rings ( McMaster-Carr # 99142A630.
Drill a 5/32 hole in the spinner retainer and install the spring pin. Then just drop it in the wheel and install the retaining ring with the pin in the opening. I couldn’t rotate the retainer once installed. Should be a cheap and simple fix. Let me know your thoughts.

Hey @Michael, I ordered the spring pins and snap rings and will be installing these this weekend. Do have a question: is there any reason I counldn't drill the spring pin holes in the hubs and drill a similar/aligned hole into the back of the wheel? (maybe step the hole up 1 or 2 drill bit size so the pin drops in?

Also @Jeff, I cleaned the anti-sieze off the hub & wheel threads (what a pain) and bought the spray graphite. That stuff works great! BUT WHAT A MESS!!!! I think it's actually worse that anti-seize.