Is there any rule-of-thumb for when to use Loc-Tite and when to use anti-seize.
And what product is recommended in each situation? (Loc-Tite red or blue? ARP Ultra-Torque ??)
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Is there any rule-of-thumb for when to use Loc-Tite and when to use anti-seize.
And what product is recommended in each situation? (Loc-Tite red or blue? ARP Ultra-Torque ??)
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
I think the only thing I used red loctite on was the flywheel bolts. If you use red loctite, it's not ever going to come loose unless you use heat.
On critical areas, where the loss of a fastener could be bad news I use blue loctite.
I use anti-seize in areas where there are 2 dissimilar metals and you know that down the road, you will need to take them apart again. For example, I use a small amount of anti-seize on the steel bolts that hold the water neck in place. Those bolts are going into aluminium and when I replace the thermostat, they have to come out. I also use a very small amount of anti-seize on spark plugs threads to prevent them from becoming one with the aluminium heads.
Just use common sense.
Bruce
I use Anti-Seize on most High Temp applications, also on two different types of metals. Lots of different kinds of Anti-Seize for different applications, make sure you use the right one.
F5R1006211RD, Blue Granite Metallic with Titan Silver Stripes by Jeff Miller (Batman)
4.6 SOHC, 3.73 R&P, 3 Link W/Koni's, 17x9 Cobra R's with 255 45zr 17 BFG Tires, Champ Pan
I use anti-seize with anything involving stainless steel, aluminum, or high temp applications.
The only times I used loctite were in applications that called for it - e.g., driveshaft bolts.
For blue loctite, I recommend you look at the blue lotite tape - it's sooooo much better than the roll-on stick and liquid dispenser. It's basically like a roll of teflon tape, excepte instead of being teflon tape it's blue loctite tape.
FFR cobra
RCR Superlite
RCR 917
04 Cobra/Z06/Diablo/bunch of other junk
copper-antiseize i used on my cyl. head bolts
copper rtv on the headers and exhaust
recommend loctite on cam bolt, balancer bolt, FW bolts when you buy them they are set with a seal already. some bolts for special applications will come with a dab of loctite.
i like to use antiseize on my wheel lugs.
there is also thread sealers that are used.
the right-stuff i am a new believer in that stuff, oil pan gaskets great stuff.
i used Gasketsinch for my front cover and water-pump also one side of my intake gasket.
there is also hi-pressure lube, got some if you want to borrow some and if you need any cam/lifter lube got that too, a jar of Isky.
try to keep the anti-seize off your skin not good for ya along with the loctite even though it taste like gum, looked what happened to me Mark.
anymore info you will have to bring beer
Mk 3.1 #6945
All good answers.
Anti-seize on dissimilar metals. Loctite on threads you don't want to slip. Rarely the red loctite. The blue won't harm anything.
For stainless bolts into other stainless hardware, low-strength Loctite (purple) works well as both an anti-sieze and a threadlocker.
As mentioned before, for most dissimilar metals (i.e. steel spark plugs into aluminum heads) traditional anti-sieze is the norm if higher temps are expected. If temps aren't a concern, the purple Loctite works here as well.
Medium-strength Loctite (blue) can safely be used for almost any general purpose fastener, except with nylock nuts (threadlockers will soften and react with the nylon).
And for any critical fastener (camshaft bolt, flywheel bolts, driveshaft bolts, etc), high-strength Loctite (red) is a must. Better safe than sorry.
HTH.
- John
Mk 3.1 - FFR6671 - "Trying" to recreate a Semi-Comp 427...
427ci FE Big-Block / Pin-Drive IRS / TKO600 / Smiths Gauges / SC Dash / 15" Goodyear Billboards
Fabrication (the fun stuff): 427 Throttle Pedal (SS) : AC Pedals on Wilwood Arms : CSX E-Brake Lever : CSX-Style Footbox Vents (SS) : CSX-Style Dash Support Tubes & Recessed Dash : CSX-Style F-Panels : Firewall Forward 4" : "Full" Rear Drop : Recessed Bulkhead & Exposed Rollbar ... hopefully the list continues!
I love all the info you guys have....I dont know how I would do my build if I didnt have this forum.
Not sure if this was mentioned above but DO NOT USE LOC-TITE ANY PLACE WHERE IT WILL COME INTO CONTACT WITH PLASTIC !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Loc-tite will destroy plastic through chemical reaction. It may melt some plastics and make others brittle. For example, keep the loc-tite away from the tail light lenses and do not use loc-tite with bolts that have a plastic locking insert.
Same as above, I use antisieze on most engine and aluminum applications, on my lug nuts and on the backs of my wheels where they contact the rotor hubs. I used loc-tite blue for most steel-to-steel aplications and locktite red where I absolutely do not want the nut to ever loosen (steering shaft conntection to steering rack) but where I can apply high heat later if I ever want to dis-assemble.
i've been known to be a bit crazy, but in a good way, it was my quest to someday be a stand-up comic, but women got in the way
Mk 3.1 #6945
Thanks guys, that helps considerably and was pretty much in-line with what I was already thinking. (I was familiar with: anti-sieze for spark plugs, some engine bolts, and lug nuts. Anywhere else I'm not thinking?) Loc-tite for most everything else (except the locking-nuts and/or plastic items).
Leo, chewing loc-tite, that explains it!
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
I wouldn't use anti-seize on lug nuts unless they were threading onto aluminum studs ... and I cetainly wouldn't want to use aluminum studs :O
FFR cobra
RCR Superlite
RCR 917
04 Cobra/Z06/Diablo/bunch of other junk
Unless the "stud" happens to be the single main stud in a pin-drive type set-up ... Those will be aluminum.
And for those, anti-seize is a 100% neccesity. Need it on that single main stud and "tri-wing" threads, the hub drive pins, and the back of the wheel (where it mates with the hub).
Last edited by Fifty-Two; 02-23-2011 at 11:01 PM.
Mk 3.1 - FFR6671 - "Trying" to recreate a Semi-Comp 427...
427ci FE Big-Block / Pin-Drive IRS / TKO600 / Smiths Gauges / SC Dash / 15" Goodyear Billboards
Fabrication (the fun stuff): 427 Throttle Pedal (SS) : AC Pedals on Wilwood Arms : CSX E-Brake Lever : CSX-Style Footbox Vents (SS) : CSX-Style Dash Support Tubes & Recessed Dash : CSX-Style F-Panels : Firewall Forward 4" : "Full" Rear Drop : Recessed Bulkhead & Exposed Rollbar ... hopefully the list continues!