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Thread: How hard is the Cobra to build? Honest Answer!

  1. #41
    Senior Member QSL's Avatar
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    Just make sure you build the car for you and what YOU want. I was steered a certain way on my wilwood brakes that now i wish i had done my way. I was also picked on a bit for putting 530HP in my car. But thats what i wanted and what it would take to be MY dream car. Dont lose your vision.

  2. #42
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I agree w/ everything said so far and especially w/ your choice of Forte as a supplier. Only change i'd make is go 351. Those extra cubes make any given HP level a milder tune. My 400 hp 351 from EF is just a nice stock rebuilt shortblock w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and heads w/ a very mild cam. The 351 is stronger internally so could be upgraded later more easily. I recommend a complete kit. There are some front suspension pieces that are included in that kit that are much better design than previously available and you will need to look for a lot less stuff. To spred out costs some you can easily drive the car in gelcoat for a season or two or three. The MkIV body has a better shape than before but also the quality is so much better. Get the car on the road and do the paint over the next winter.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  3. #43

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    Lot's of good discussion on this especially on engines. Any comments on a 351 vs the new 5.0 Coyote engine?

  4. #44
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    By all accounts (including the recent TV special pitting the Mk4 with a Coyote against an original) the 5.0 Coyote is a great choice. Definitely something I would look at for my next build. But a little off topic for the OP. As I understand, mods and custom parts are required to get the Coyote into the Mk4 today. Exhaust headers being one. FFR is supposed to be developing an installation kit for the Coyote, but not available yet. Probably not the best choice for someone concerned about having the skill level for the kit in the first place.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. #45
    Slow but Steady Gale K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DANW View Post
    Lot's of good discussion on this especially on engines. Any comments on a 351 vs the new 5.0 Coyote engine?
    I have done zero research on the following statement, so take it with a grain of salt... BUT (IMHO), I would say the 351 could be loads less expensive to git 'er dun. Many many many mods for the 351 motors, and lots of experience in the real world. Also, headers available, motors fit in the chassis well, etc. etc. etc.

    If you need the latest and greatest, the Coyote would be it. If cost is a factor, and you don't mind the "old school" way of doing things, the 351 would be great.
    One of the last Mark II's, FFR complete date 5/8/04, delivery date 5/23/04, donor-'93 Mustang GT. Yes, that is me in my Avatar. Paint done by Da Bat! It looks killer! Drive it like you stole it...

  6. #46
    Super Moderator oldguy668's Avatar
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    I bought a MK II kit many moons ago. Prior to that, I had only basic automotive skills, developed mostly trying to keep my succession of "first cars" running long enough to go out on a date. Anyway, I did a simple, basic build with a few appearance touches of my own. The car came out "wicked pissah" as we say in Boston, and won more than a few trophies along the way. Start to finish was about 18 months. Now, as an "expert" on my fourth project, I can honestly say the first one was more fun and came out better.
    "Loyalty to the country always. Loyalty to the government when it deserves it".

    Mark Twain

  7. #47
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    I thought about the coyote but I am a racer and an ol school boy. I want something that few have something with a great punch and a good load of tourque. I took everyone's thoughts and comments. Blasted everything by the wife, which has cost me dinner and a potential "chick flick" and maybe a new couch too not really sure I started drinking when I heard chick flick. But what I came up with is that I want a 331 stroker set around 375-380hp. I can tool with it a little later on if I want to get a little more out of it. After thinking about how light the car is that should be more than enough to put a smile on my face. Really cant wait to brush off the skills and get my hands dirty.

    Also, I read somewhere that someone rhino lined all the sheet metal on the car to reduce vibration and the sheet metal ratteling sounds. Has anyone heard of doing this....the more I thought about it the more I thoght it was a good idea. But would the sheet metal still fit together as designed with the tollerences slightly off due to the lining.

  8. #48
    Senior Member QSL's Avatar
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    i am personally dissapointed when someone opens the hood and its fuel injected.

    really think about your block choice. I too originally planned on a 302base but after trolling around decided a 351 base had waaaaay more options in the power department. You can cover any range of power you are looking for with that block.

  9. #49
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    I personally love the look of the Coyote with the BOSS intake manifold, it looks right at home in the roadster.

  10. #50
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    A hot rod should have a carb sitting on top of it in my opinion. But there's no arguing the efficiency, effectiveness etc of a modern setup either.

  11. #51
    Senior Member LewPoberezny's Avatar
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    Been there done that . Mike is hard to get off the phone.

    Quote Originally Posted by Assassin22 View Post
    I talked with Mike Forte this evening. This is a class act A+ guy....and for me service and knowledge sells. Mike knows a ton and is extremely knowledgable on all things related to racing, engines, power, and anything else you can think of. He also convinced me that 350-360 hp is the way to go in the 302. Not that I didnt believe yall he was just able to get through my thick skull and prob arrogant head...haha! Anyways if I buy I am going through him especially with a price you cant beat, the man has exactly what I am looking for and talked as if he knew me for years, great service, I am sold! If my wife didnt come get me in the drive way sitting in my truck I would probably have talked shop for hours.

    Anyways, thanks for all the comments and support you guys truly do know your stuff and all have convinced me to do this and now I PROMISE to be more opened minded Thanks for everything I look forward to all the advice and shop talk in the future.

    Beau
    Have a safe day,

    Lew Poberezny

    Wauwatosa, WI

    ____________________________________

    MKIV ordered Sept. 02nd 2010

    Stewert Delivered Oct. 11th 2010

    Order Forte's Magic Dec. 02nd 2010

    Roller Dec. 04th 2010

    Vredestin 245/45R17 Front 315/35R17 Rear

    See build details at my Blog

    http://ffr7347build.blogspot.com/

  12. #52
    MKIII #5835 Someday I Suppose's Avatar
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    On the question of a Coyote vs. a 302 carb engine, its such an apples to oranges comparison, the Coyote is a wicked cool engine for sure, but to me it also depends on what you want from the car, and how 'old school' you want it to be. I'll also add that there is going to be more work in fabrication etc. putting the Coyote in then a 302. As they get more common it will get easier, but right now it will be a bit of work.

    I also wanted to add to the how you eat an elephant comment. For me the most daunting parts of the build were brake lines and getting started on the electrical. The electrical for sure, I tried to go out one day and work for an hour and it was just one of those things you needed time to wrap your brain around it, and say okay, these are headlight and front turn indicators, pull them to the front, these are rear turn and brake lights pull them to the back, and soon you have started to sort it out. With the new ron francis harness from FFR its even easier as they are bundled together. The point though one step at a time, you will learn a ton as you go and learn to problem solve as well. That is a huge part of the fun!

    -Scott
    MKIII #3835 IRS, Anderson Performance 408 Levy T-5 Trans, Team III Wheels
    Paint completed November 2010, passed NJ State Safety Inspection June 21st, Tagged and First Drive 7/1/2011

  13. #53
    Senior Member gtaroger's Avatar
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    It sounds like you already have the skill to do the job.Roger

  14. #54
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    you can rhino line or any type of insulation you want (more weight) but if you use a line of caulk between the panels and the frame then the rivets or use 3m double sided tape between the panels and the frame then the rivets you would mitgate any rattles you would have otherwise had, the insulation or liners help with road noise/heat however with the side exhausts any noise issues are a mute (pardon the pun) point, for heat issues there are many other directions you can take, I personally love the RAW aluminium (untreated, uninsulated, unlined) it adds to the character of the car ......................
    Cowards are vile, vicious and vindictive in private, but innocent and charming in front of witnesses; no-one can, or wants to believe this individual has a vindictive nature - only the current target of the coward's aggression sees both sides.

    Stress filled occasions do not make heroes or cowards; they simply unveil them to the eyes of men .........................

  15. #55
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Assassin22 View Post
    Also, I read somewhere that someone rhino lined all the sheet metal on the car to reduce vibration and the sheet metal ratteling sounds. Has anyone heard of doing this....the more I thought about it the more I thoght it was a good idea. But would the sheet metal still fit together as designed with the tollerences slightly off due to the lining.
    The build process is well established and works very well. Pre-fit the panels, pre-drill and use Klekos to temporarily hold everything in place. Once you're satisfied, remove panels and apply whatever finish method works best for you. Some leave them unfinished but most I've seen do not. You can paint, powder coat, sharkhide, whatever. But I wouldn't put anything heavy that changes the fit. I chose to powder coat all of mine. Then reassemble with silicone between the panels and the rivets. Most also apply some type of noise/heat insulation in the cockpit, and then the carpet. If done this way, you won't get any rattling or vibration of the joints, sheet metal noise, etc. Keep in mind, the chassis has no flex. Some may want the bare aluminum look, as the last poster. But this just points out how important it is (as I suggested earlier) to get out and see as many as you can before you decide for your build.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-14-2012 at 02:33 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  16. #56
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    Assassin - The best feel you can get for building one of these is by attending Build School.

    Kevin

  17. #57
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    Just to pile on...supper easy to build. We (family) did our build in six months start to finsih using the complete kit and few mod's for safety and auto X...my then 15 year old did all the electrical work that's how easy it was. The hardest thing to do is figure out (and do this first) what you'll want to do with the car...show, race, street etc.

    Good luck.

  18. #58
    Junior Member PBXII's Avatar
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    This is the Fatter Stig's first car build, so I am taking my time and reading the instructions. I know, I know, i read the instructions!! Just remember a few things, rightytighty, leftyloosey. There are a few parts that are leftytighty, rightyloosey. But in general a very straight forward assembly, requiring no special exotic tools to use. Lot of beer & pizza. The vendors for the Roadster are a great wealth of information, are very patient, & will help you thru a question. Post questions when you get stuck on something. I am half way thru build, at the point of engine/driveline, wheels/tires, to drive.

  19. #59
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    My MKII started life with a 1989 EFI 302 donor, but after all was said and done, I used fewer parts from the original Mustang than I would have thought at the outset. In addition, I only became aware of this Forum more than half way through the building process. Earlier though, I became aware of and got in contact with several of our great vendors, and that changed my perspective in many instances. I had the donor 302 rebuilt in mild form, since I wanted to build a light, nimble, balanced car, and I believe I did just that. HP went up a bit but stayed in the mid 200s. I did come to this building process after three decades plus of motorcycling (mostly on BMWs), so I consider my FFR a four-wheeled bike and I enjoy it tremendously. I could always add more ponies if I wanted to, but for those who start with something more powerful than they can handle, backing off can be quite a trick, if it's even practical or possible. I have found it true that it's more fun to drive a less powerful car fast then to drive a high-powered one slow. My 1970 S2 Lotus Europa proved that to me, but I am only speaking for myself of course. Everyone's different. Mona, my FFR, is the Lotus on steroids!

  20. #60
    Senior Member Crawleyscobra's Avatar
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    It’s not so much if you can build it, (sounds like you have the skills) for me it has turned out to be when I can, “build it”. I have been working on mine for 4 years now. If you have any sort of life and can’t work on it 2 or 3 hours a night, it can take some time. I’m lucky to work on it 2 or 3 hours a week. So just keep in mind to pace your build according to your life style.
    FFR6682 - received 7/30/08 - MK 3.1 complete kit, Forte built Ford Racing BOSS 427W(475HP/500lbs), TKO600, Power steering, Power Brakes, Hydraulic Clutch, VPM Front/Rear sway bars, Bump steer kit, SAI mod, 13"Front/11.65"Rear Mustang Cobra rotors w/calipers, NITTO NT05s - 255/40R17-Front, 315/35R17-rear,3.55 IRS.
    Visit my Blog: http://crawleyscobra.wordpress.com

  21. #61
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    when you start to upgrade and to add your own personal touch, that is when it becomes difficult. If you do a "by the book build" then you should be just fine.

  22. #62
    Senior Member E-Ticket Ride's Avatar
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    And remember, its not a job. A schedule to complete by XX date, when your job/family/life is all around can lead to unwanted and unneeded stress. It's supposed to be fun! Enjoy it! take time off to do those things with the family, and pace your build accordingly. I have had mine for almost 6 months now, have all the SM done (until the next cool mod comes along), the IFS installed, and the IRS almost in. and my wheels showed up at my office today. I had forecast a year to 18 months, and will likely end up on the long side of that estimate.

    Only problem is that I can't drive it 'til its done...
    Confidence: The feeling you have before you truly understand the situation. FFR 7652 Mk IV Base Kit w/IRS: ordered 10/19/2011; Arrived 11/19/2011. Coyote, Trans & headers Installed 9/11/17. First Start 12/19/17, First Go-cart 3/2/18. Aligned and go-karting. Working the interior now. Happy customer of FFR, North RaceCars, Forte's, and Breeze.
    Chris Lewis

  23. #63
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    If you've got your wife's approval, the hardest part is done!

    Seriously, the guys on here are a wealth of knowledge. USE THEM (and be careful, they like to spend your money on shiney stuff!)

    Also, join a local Cobra club, they are GREAT and very motivating.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  24. #64
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    I got my 347 stroker from Proformance Unlimited and have been very happy with them. I am still doing the build - engine and tranny in, working on completing the dash and then hopefully soon get to checking out the wiring and turning it over. I have called back to PU at least 10-15 times with questions and issues about so many things - Steve has been patient and answered every one. Also, since I live only a few hours away I was able to watch some of the build and then pick it up myself. Lots of fun and saved some shipping $$. I think lots of good engine options out there - I am happy with my choice.

    Dan

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