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Thread: Difficulty in 65 coupe build vs cobra MK4???

  1. #1
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    Difficulty in 65 coupe build vs cobra MK4???

    I have decided to build a factory 5 car and at first I was leaning heavily towards the MK4 but after a lot of thought I would rather go with the 65 coupe. But my decision on this is more or less based on the difficulty to build the project. Are the two builds similar and with the modifications made by FFR on the 65 coupe is it a lot easier to build. Do the tolerances match up or are there a lot of things that need to be worked by me to make this work. I want something that is easy to build that I will have a lot of pride in!

    Personally I like the racing look the sheet metal interior with racing seats. But I am concerned that this will be more difficult to build than the MK4 any thoughts??

    Also, does this project require any welding, sheet metal work, or modification on behalf of the builder to make things fit or does it piece together easily like the MK4 owners have all stated.

    As far as motor is concerned I am going with Yeoman Racing engines out of KS, 347 stroker with 400hp should be more than enough for either build.

    Any advice or help would appreciated. Hopefully all FFR kits go together with easy and it does not vary from one type to the next. Finally are there any areas that become overly difficult to do as you guys have gone through this build process?

    Thanks

    Beau

  2. #2
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Both go together easily as they should, the only diference in the coupe is the bodywork...................you can feel comfortable building the coupe.......Steven
    FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
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    All toys still in the Scuderia!


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    What do you mean by the only difference is the body work? Is there a lot more that I will have to do with the coupe to make it work or can I send it to a body shop.

    I am thinking that body work you mean that it has a roof?

    How much does the coupe weigh and will 400hp be plenty?

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Trick Tool Maker, Super Moderator Hankl's Avatar
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    The "Extra" body work is the increase of the surface are of the body compared to the Roadster. The newer MKII bodies are so much better than the early production,
    and require less work than the older bodies, so very little worry there. As to the 400HP, there will be many who will say that's enough, and others that say too much is
    just right, the latter group is just a misplaced ego at work! "The Small Member Group", LOL. 400HP will be more than enough no matter what you'll want to do with it.
    Depending on your geographic location, AC might be a consideration to include in the build. Weight will be dependent on what type of rear suspension you select, and the
    accessories you decide to include, should be around 2500 LBS.HTH.

    Hank
    Last edited by Hankl; 04-15-2012 at 04:31 PM.
    “If you didn’t have enough time to do it right the first time. How come you always have time to go back and do it again?” FFR1000186CP

    Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
    Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.

  5. #5
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    I keep hearing that the coupe is not that different from the roadster. But I think it is more involved due to the bigger doors, the frontend, and the hatch. If you have someone else doing the fitment and body work, it probably doesn't make much difference. I have fabbed a flip fiberglass front end on a 55 Chevy and loved the project but that's me. If you are thinking about doing the body work it might be worth looking into some of the build sites to show the coupe component fitment. WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

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    All of the cars will require some trimming or minor modifications to the sheet metal, body fitment etc. Some parts might not just drop in and fit perfect but all will work and fit if you take the time to work it. These cars are not like extra large models with perfecting fitting parts and anyone that tells you that any replica car "just bolts together with no additional work" is lying to you.

    All that being said, buy the car that you want to build and go build it.

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  7. #7
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    If you're seriously considering building one of these cars take the build school class at Mott CC (it's listed on FFR's site). It's a great way to spend a weekend (seriously, the class was a lot of fun, one of the most enjoyable vacations I've ever had) and you'll learn an immense amount about building these cars. When you leave you'll know that not only can you do it, you can also handle most of the more popular mods. They don't offer a class for the coupe but the roadster is similar enough that it won't matter. Also several of the instructors have built coupes or are familiar enough with them point out all of the differences.

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    Thanks for the tips and advice. I think I might go to the build school probably not a bad idea, plus it gives some insight into the factory and the process. All in all even if I dont I will figure it out.

    As far as body work and sheet metal goes are there any tools that I need to buy that are a big help?

  9. #9
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    I haven't started body work yet but as far as aluminum work I have not needed any special tools just basic hand tools and a riveter

  10. #10
    Richard Oben's Avatar
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    Having built both, the coupe mechanically is about the same as the roadster but the fitting of everything else is much more complicated than the roadsters. For example, the roadster doors bolt on, done. The coupe doors have to fit the frame and the body has to be adjusted to fit the door and the door to the side window and then all of that to the body. If you plan to have it all done get your checkbook, it will be more expensive but a long shot. HTH, Richard.
    Richard Oben FFR builder www.northracecars.com

    Need help finishing your project we can help here or at your shop.

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    Both cars by NRC, we can build (and have built) any FFR product.
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  11. #11
    Member 70gtvert's Avatar
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    On the coupeI can say there are a LOT of aluminum panels that need work sufficent enough to require replacement. It is kinda like F5 eyeballed some so they look close to fitting and left it at that.

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    I also have built both, and the coupe (an early version) was much more challenging. Trying to get all the body parts to fit and work right takes time. The early bodies required loads of seam work. Hopefully this has been improved. Look into A/C. This car gets hot in the summer and its actually louder inside than the roadster. How big are you? They are a little tight getting in and out due to the size of the doors and the roll cage contraints. I built mine with a Ford Racing 400 HP engine -- really plenty of power -- and the IRS. Road nice, and unbelievably loud!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 70gtvert View Post
    On the coupeI can say there are a LOT of aluminum panels that need work sufficent enough to require replacement. It is kinda like F5 eyeballed some so they look close to fitting and left it at that.

    Yup, I totally agree with this. A lot of the aluminum panels were far enough off that I needed to rebend, or in some cases, cut and patch. I know they claim to be CNC cut and all that stuff, but either the machine needs re-programming, or they didn't weld my chassis together straight.

    The doors were a nightmare; easily the most frustrating part of the build. I would suggest deciding whether or not you want to install the side windows right away. I made the mistake of running without the side windows for a little while, then decided to put them in later, which completely threw off the alignment of the doors, so they had to be significantly re-worked. Big mess. I have the black body, which had a really badly built drivers door, which didn't help. I hear the new red bodies are much better.

    Awesome car, though. I think the fact that it's just much lower volume than the roadster means that the coupe kit is just not as refined as the roadster kit, so you have to end up having to do a lot more adjusting and fitting yourself.
    Last edited by JohnPR; 05-06-2012 at 03:02 PM. Reason: Typo

  14. #14
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    I only know the Coupe (black body), and it has been a challenge (as mentioned above). However the allure of a lightweight replica (done in a restomod fashion) of a purpose built mid sixties race car was and is an easy choice. Roadsters are cool, but I have seen too many that are the automotive equivalent of a poser Harley...

  15. #15
    Senior Member Benji's Avatar
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    Any comments from the red body guys? Anyone built a red body MkIV AND Coupe?

  16. #16
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    I haven't met any of those "posers" yet. I have met a few that are very careful with their roadsters. This one guy wouldn't drive his in high traffic areas. He had a 10k paint job and was pretty nervous about getting damaged. However the real difference with these guys vs the Harley posers is that most of the roadster guys have built their project and that in itself redeems them from whatever shortcoming they may have regarding wanting to be seen in public to show off their pride and joy. They paided their dues in the garage plus put out the 25k or more. With as many roadsters as there are, you are bound to see a few "for show only" types. The core work is about the same for the two types but I am so happy to be fitting a door not much bigger than my computer and a hood and truck that are pretty simple when you compare the coupe components. My perfect scenario would be to take a coupe that was already to the gokart stage and let me finish it from there. I don't think I have the stamina to do the core word and then tackle the rest of it. Kudos to the coupe builders!! WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

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