Coyote experts: knowledge needed!! (lot's of pictures)

[Hammink Performance]

Allright so here it go's!

I am building a Coyote powered Factory Five Challenge car. Since this is the first FFR I build using the Coyote motor, I would like to ask you guys if I am not missing anything. Nothing is mounted fixed jet, but I am just waiting for my header flanges, CAI, and P/S hardware you guys, before I do mount everything for the last time.to come before I can start the car, so now would be the time to ask

(btw it's also the first race car I built, so also here I am open to any tips or comments!)



engine bay shots




back side of engine




top view of engine bay



did I hook up the alternator correctly? What can I do for oil pressure sender (for the gauge) since I am using oil filter relocation

[Hammink Performance]

front mounted oil filter for easy service acces, also plan to run oil cooler from there forward. (will test the car without first)
the belt shows where the P/S pump will come

oil temp gauge sending unit

is this a valid location for the water temp sending unit? its in front of the passenger side cyl head

[E-Ticket Ride]

Looks great.
I am no expert, as I have yet to purchase my Coyote, let alone install it.

Good luck!

[Jester]

I have asked Ford Racing about the water temp sensor location and there is a frost plug on the drivers side that can be used for the water temp sensor (with an adapter) see photo.Frost Plug for Water Temp sensor.jpg050 engine intake.JPG043 fuel regulator.JPG

I have attached a few other pics as well

[mike forte]

Hi,
I added 2 heater billet aluminum hose plugs to cover the unused water hose connections. These are superior to the rubber hose plugs that are prone to "popping" which then pukes all the coolant. This happens on the hottest days or while racing..

[Hammink Performance]

@ Jester,

Thank you for the photo's, I fear though that if I use your location for the water temp sensor, that there will be no room for an oil pressure sender. (if there is now)

Does anybody know if the location I choose is valid for a gauge sender?

[johngeorge]

very cool! challenge car with a coyote in it, jealous

[ClemsonS197]

Looks good so far. I put the water temp sensor in the supply line to my heater so I can't comment on your location. Also, the 2011+ Mustangs have a line from the top of the radiator back in to the overflow. I assume it's to keep an air pocket at the top of the radiator from forming. I used the 2011+ overflow, and it looks like you used a 2010. Only difference is another inlet.



For oil pressure, can you just add another "t" fitting to the line to hook up the pressure sensor? Not the prettiest, but it would get the job done. Your passenger side front is going to get very crowded when you add the power steering and reservoir.

Also, I'd put some tape over the exhaust ports to keep dust out of the cylinders. The rest looks pretty good. Nice work.

[Hammink Performance]

Looks good so far. I put the water temp sensor in the supply line to my heater so I can't comment on your location.
I will try my location and let you know what happens; I like the location because of clean look, but it has to function ofcourse
Also, the 2011+ Mustangs have a line from the top of the radiator back in to the overflow. I assume it's to keep an air pocket at the top of the radiator from forming. I used the 2011+ overflow, and it looks like you used a 2010. Only difference is another inlet.
What do you think, should I change my line from thermostat housing to radiator or leave it like I have it now with the 2010 tank?


For oil pressure, can you just add another "t" fitting to the line to hook up the pressure sensor? Not the prettiest, but it would get the job done.
Since I use braided lines I was thinking in the remote oil filter adapter but than I would need to T anyway if I switch to oil cooler

Your passenger side front is going to get very crowded when you add the power steering and reservoir.

Also, I'd put some tape over the exhaust ports to keep dust out of the cylinders. The rest looks pretty good. Nice work.

Thanks

[ClemsonS197]

What do you think, should I change my line from thermostat housing to radiator or leave it like I have it now with the 2010 tank?

I believe FFinisher used a 2010 tank and used a T to combine the t-stat housing line with the radiator line and then in to the overflow.

[95Blitz]

If you are going to race the car you might want to look at the rules for the fuel pressure regulator mounting. I know for drag racing the regulator has to mounted to the motor.

[Hammink Performance]

Thanks for the tip, I will definately check it (we won't be drag racing though, just for circuit use)

[Jester]

@Hammink

I have attached some photos of my Oil pressure sender and Temp sender installed - should be no interference. Also attached a few additional photos - Champ Pan install etc

Can anyone post pics of the power distribution solenoid (Q: does the large wire from the battery attach to the same pole as the large wire to the starter - this is how I have mine wired - see below)

Oil pressure sender & Water Temp sender (1)
Oil Pressure Sender_Water Temp sender_from below.jpg

Oil pressure sender & Water Temp sender (2)
Oil Pressure Sender_Water Temp sender.jpg

Champ Pan installed (1)
Champ Pan Installed.jpg

Champ Pan installed (2) view from side of frame rail - very nice pan
Champ Pan _ side view of frame rails.jpg

Fuel regulator, Heater control valve & vaccum line in
Fuel Regulator_Vaccum line_ heater control valve.jpg

Power distribution solenoid
Power Distribution Solenoid_wires attached.jpg

[ClemsonS197]

Solenoid? I didn't use one. I just used the OEM starter, Ron Francis harness, and FF ignition switch.

[oldguy668]

You really do not need the solenoid if you are using the power control box that came with the control package. Also, run your vacuum line to one of the ports on the throttle body and plug the port on the back of the engine (per Ford Racing's tech).

[Jester]

The Power distribution solenoid is used by FFR in the Coyote Install instructions - see page 76.

I was just following these instructions - seems reasonable to me - wiring is relatively simple as well according to these instructions. I have wired my engine according to these instructions which uses the power distribition solenoid

Thoughts??

Thx

[Jester]

I have installed a stock 2011 water reservoir container (overflow tank) for the rad and stock hoses connected to the overflow tank. I noticed the upper left hose that connects to the upper left corner of the rad (drivers side) has a check valve that only allows one way flow.

Which way should this hose be inatalled for proper flow - I assume the check valve is intended to allow excess water to flow out of the top of the rad into the tank and stop air from getting sucked back into the rad. Has anyone confirmed this?

Thx

[oldguy668]

The Power distribution solenoid is used by FFR in the Coyote Install instructions - see page 76.

I was just following these instructions - seems reasonable to me - wiring is relatively simple as well according to these instructions. I have wired my engine according to these instructions which uses the power distribition solenoid

Thoughts??

Thx

Normally, the solenoid (starter relay) is used for two things: One, it acts as a relay so you don't need a 20 amp rated ignition key, and, two, it acts as a convenient place to connect all the 12V feeds. In the Coyote Power Distribution box, function #1 is handled by an internal relay. Function #2 can be handled by simply connecting your fuse box feeder to the fat terminal on the starter. The FFR relay is redundant and just provides another possible trouble spot.

[Jester]

Thx oldguy,

Good point on reilability. I will try with the current set-up before removing the solenoid however won't be for a while - just waiting on headers/cats from FFR before I can spark the fire.

Thx

[oldguy668]

When you get some info on the check valve issue, please share it.

[Jester]

I have attached cooling system part numbers as provided by FRPP. The hose I am refering to is part #8075B.

I have installed as per the diagram - I need to verify the other stock hoses off the overflow tank do not have check valves - and are installed properly
cooling system part numbers_FRPP.jpg

[Hammink Performance]

Maybe some dumb questions regarding the power distribution and the cooling system:

Can I use a battery cut of switch for as power distribution point? (I would do one side battery, other side the rest. I would keep the Ford Racing wire on the batt at all times though)

On the cooling system, is the overflow hose on the radiator engine dependant? Or should all roadsters have this problem since all radiators are in this spot?
With our street roadster we have no problems and we just use an inline filler neck with the stainless overflow kit as supplied by FFR.

[Hammink Performance]

Big header issue :P

I received these 4.6 shorty's, now I still need to weld the flange, but I thought to test fit it first.
So I took out the studs from the block and held the header infront of the exhaust openings in the head.

NOW WHAT? :P it's sitting on my alternator!

Shake down is supposed to be 15 may which is 2 weeks from now :P

[oldguy668]

The AST adapter flange is made to work with FFR 4-tube headers for the 2V engine, not for 4.6 shorties. You will have to wait for the new FFR shorties or go to the 4-tube header or fabricate your own.

[ClemsonS197]

The 4.6L shorties I bought hit the alternator on the driver's side, and the front of the block on the passenger side. Mine were Ford Racing for a 4.6L. You're two options are what oldguy said.

Perhaps you can get an advanced copy of the Factory Five headers since you have a little more pull than we do. Dave posted a pic on Facebook a couple weeks ago putting a set on the Mk4 Coyote.

[Hammink Performance]

Thank you for the quick reply's guys! I have bought these headers with flanges so I had assumed they would fit!

Have also asked FFR for a sample header, but they told us no. (this was a little while ago when they were still designing them)

The problem is that I need catalytic convertors.......

[Hammink Performance]

I am pretty sure though no body but us will check the car so I can try running it without cats for the shakedown, and by the time we will race it I assume FFR's shorty's will be ready.

Who can help me get a pre-welded set of 4tube headers before next week? :P

[oldguy668]

Where did you get the flanges?

[Hammink Performance]

Forte's

[Jester]

Oldguy - post #20

Re the check valve: I have confirmed that the stock hose coming off the DS of the Rad to the overflow tank (see diagram above for part number), has a check valve that only allows one way flow into the rad. Under pressure (when engine is running) this valve is closed to maintain the pressure within the cooling system so the coolant does not boil.

All other stock hoses off the overflow tank are free flowing.

Hope this helps. - You may want to speak with a FRPP tech for additional confirmation

[Hammink Performance]

That would be the 8075B than, but again is this engine related or rad position related?
Otherwise all roadsters should need this on their rads, correct?

[oldguy668]

My tank is for a non-GT application, so it does not have a spot for 8075B to connect. I used a tee connector from the radiator air bleed to the engine air bleed to the tank, connecting where 8075A does in your diagram. No issues yet but the weather was cool on the first two drives.

[Hammink Performance]

IF!!!! we get the chance to drive May 15 I will let you know how it go's!
Otherwise I will also try what you did....

[Hammink Performance]

pretty good news guys!! The headers came in this morning, and according to the tracking number I will also have the flanges today!!
Big thank you to everybody involved!!

Regarding the o2 sensor, do I weld the bung in on of the 4 pipes? or where they come together in the side pipe?
I figure the race car will be full throttle all the time so plenty of heat there I assume?

[oldguy668]

The instructions with the control pack gives you locations for the O2 bungs if you choose to put them into the header tubes. Some of us have just put them in the collector with no problems.

[Hammink Performance]

Thanks for the reply oldguy668.

I had read the manual but it sais to re-calibrate if you choose one cylinder from each bank, that's also why I'd choose the collector.
It doen't mention any real distance other than not to extend the harness for it, but this it seems is inevitable.

[bansheekev]

Richard at North Racecars mentioned a while back that there are O2 sensor wiring extensions (pigtails) available from somewhere. Not sure where, but they do exist to purchase...

[oldguy668]

Extending the harness is no problem. Just pay attention to the twisted pairs and follow the color code.

[Hammink Performance]

Whats the torque spec for the nuts that bolt the header to the block?

[oldguy668]

There's no room for a torque wrench so just make them tight. Check them after a few hundred miles.