Coyote experts: knowledge needed!! (lot's of pictures)

[Hammink Performance]

It's now three guys on the job :P

The last box of parts came in, and we realy realy realy realy want to make the shake down next tuesday!

It's gonna be a long weekend :-)

Alignment is on monday.

[Hammink Performance]

ah it runs!!!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Hammin...89969081056460

[E-Ticket Ride]

Congratulations!
I will get there one day. Finishing up the IRS install today.

[Jester]

Great Prgress and congrats on first start!

Can you fit the body over the elephant ears or did you riv-nuts so they can be removed and re-inatalled wune body is on later?

I will be at that point soon

Thx

[Hammink Performance]

Thanks guys!!

@ Jester:
You can fit the body over the elephant ears. Just put some news papers over the rubbers so the body can not rip them appart.
The news paper will help slide the body over the rubbers, and you can pull out the news paper afterwords.

Just a side note, we have found out that a MK4 body does not install when the side exhaust are in place.
(that is on the challenge car because we can not move for/rearward with the rollcage)

[Hammink Performance]

again, thank you everybody for helping in this thread! We have drivin the car and learned a lot.
I will try to post our findings and maybe some more questions before the weekend.

Check out this short video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSWhP...1&feature=plcp

[ClemsonS197]

Looks and sounds great.

[Hammink Performance]

@ clemsonS197; Thank you!

I'd like to share some points discussed in this thread;
The water temp sensor looks to be working fine in the location we have choosen in the head, the readings were fine and consistant, but to be 110% sure I will take it out soon.

The billet aluminum hose plugs Mike Forte was talking about do actually work really nice. Ofcourse they are more expensive than rubber caps, but they seem worth the risk to me!
Attachment 9790

We mounted the oil pressure sender below the oil filter in it's adapter bracket

We skipped the power steering, but we might install it after all when we start driving it harder

2010 coolant tank seems to work nice as well, checked the radiator for air multiple times but still nothing.

The "red flag" on the driver side (kill switch) is used as our power distribution block.

O2 sensors in the collector work nice (for us) do pick your location with the body on since it go's around and under the square chassis tubes.

We did the o2 wire extentions our selves and did not experience any problems.


Than the only problems we experienced while driving were:

Major bumpsteer on hills and under heavy braking, probably deu to poor alignment.
Front wheels rubbing the front of the wheelwell on the front of the car, under breaking and turn in, this is ride hight/alignment and fat tires
The driver rear wheel hit the cage behind the seat, also thinking ride hight and alignment.

now the next one is an important one for you Coyote guys!!

While accelarating in a dip of the track (comming from a slight hill) we could all hear a hard rattle or cluncking if you will, in the rear of the car.
Back in the shop I checked all IRS arms and other things that are able to move in the rear.
Turns out it was the driveshaft hitting the 4" round tube which is connecting the main 4" chassis tubes together.

We were using the transmission bracket as shown in the Coyote manual by FFR, I now made a 5mm spacer for under the transmission mount, which raises the driveshaft more than 5mm away from the tube. (also used 5mm longer bolts to make up for the spacer)

Other than that, no leaks, no fails, no nothing. :-)

If anybody wants detailed pictures of anything, don't hessitate to ask.

[Jester]

Great news

How did you find the foot box for space - do you plan to modify either of the foot boxes?

Did you pressure up the oil pump / oiling system before starting for the first time or did you just start the motor straight out of the box (after changing the pan)?

Thx

[Hammink Performance]

passenger footbox is plenty of room in my opinion, but we did modify the drivers footbox near the gaspedal. (I'll post some pics on monday)

I did start the engine right out of the box after I had refilled the oil. However during installation etc. I spun it a few times.

The motor fired right up without any stuttering or anything, it was like a factory car hahaha.
There was a hydrolic lifter sound for like 10 seconds, but nothing else.

[Hammink Performance]

Jester,

We moved the remaining part of the 4.6L footbox side wall back out, instead of making a larger area for the gas pedal.
It starts approx in line with the cyl head.

This helps a lot because your leg does not have to fold arround the bend in the aluminum to get to the pedal.

(However we only use this car with driving shoes)

Don't mind the pictures being a little messy, we are still working on the car.

[Jester]

Nice!

Looks like plenty of room for normal shoes.

Thx

[Hammink Performance]

On the next car we will optimise this setup, and I have no problem sending you the drawing at that time

[Hammink Performance]

Hi Guys,

To fire up this thread again...

Yesterday we were driving the car on the Zandvoort racing track again (will post some vids and pics on this forum soon)
Fun thing was that when the driver felt comfortable with the car, he was keeping up with a Porsche GT3 cup car!!

Now since we discussed the cooling system here I want to see what you guys experienced, because you have added that hose to the top of the radiator.
Here's what I found;
It seemed that the cooling system was not functioning right. While sitting in the pits the temp went up to a little over 200F so if you feel the top hose of the radiator it is really warm, but when you feel the lower one it is just a little bit heated as if there is no flow thru this hose.
Have you got any idea for this matter?

We have a 2010 Mustang tank, that has the little hose on top hooked up to the small port on top of the engine, and the big hose connection to one of the heater pipes. Maybe bad gauge sender location? (top front of passenger side cyl head)

[Jester]

Where did you place the water temp sensor?

I have located mine in the block water jacket plug on the DS near the engine mount as per the revised FFR Coyote install instructions

[Hammink Performance]

There is a picture on the first page of this thread, I have it mounted in the passenger cyl head.

Did you hook your rad up to the expansion tank?

[Hammink Performance]

Another interesting thing to know would be;

Does this engine need the circulation from the heater system?
(maybe it is better to put a piece of hose in between the 2 heater pipes, instead of capping them both of)

[Jester]

With any luck I will have mine started next week

I have my temp sensor mounted in the jacket on the DS near the engine mount.

I have the stock coyote cooling tank with all proper stock cooling lines etc in proper locations. As well I have installed the heater with stock cooling lines (slight mod required), so there should be no issues.

Once I have confirmed start I will provide an update.

I can post pics if needed

As well I have modified the DS and PS foot boxes to maximize space as per new FFR headers (very nice). Much improoved and should provide significant comfort.

[Jester]

Previously I spoke to the FRPP rep at Ford Racing and they were the ones who told me the proper location for the temp sensor. Since that time FFR has updated the install instructions with this same location.

Connecting the heater lines will provide continuous circulation but not sure if this will solve the issue however when installing a FFR heater, there is no bypass valve to provide continuous circulation (I may need to modify accordingly if I have this same issue)

Good luck - keep us posted as others may have the same issue

[Hammink Performance]

Jester,

Thank you for the reply's, pics would definately help, or at the least give new idea's. (as you say, other people might experience problems as well)

In the build wiki on this forum they use the tank with one small hose barb on top, do you have the one with 2 on top?
Here's my setup;

[ClemsonS197]

In the last 20 seconds, you can see how I hooked up the reservoir. The 2011+ tanks have two connection points on top. One goes to the block, like you have, and the second goes to the drivers side top of the radiator. I haven't driven it yet, but I have taken it up to temp to make sure the t-stat opened and the fan started. The line out of the top of the radiator flows fluid through it darn near constantly. You can see the fluid moving out of it in to the reservoir when you take the cap off. I'm not certain on the need for flow, but the heater connections do want to move fluid. That might help. Doubt it has an impact, but Ford wants the MAF sensor between 6 and 24" from throttle body. I thought of mounting my intake like you have, but it was further than 24". Might make your motor run lean.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9889739924.mp4


Edit: Looks like you car is painted. New pics????

[Hammink Performance]

Hi Clemson,

That's a cool vid, the open headers sound well :-)
Does the small hose you have comming from the radiator have a little valve in it? Earlier in this thread it was mentioned that the stock version used a valve.

I have my MAF approx 22" fron the TB (measured from the outside of the intake tubes)

Yes the car has been painted, mad dog will post some pics and vids soon, but in the mean time.
http://www.hamminkperformance.nl/for...php?f=26&t=148

[Jester]

From the vid posted by Clemson, it looks like I have a similar set-up for both the intake / vacum lines and overflow tank/rad lines etc. I have the stock heater lines connected directly to the FFR heater with the control valve on the DS heater line near the fire wall. My set-up mirrors the stock Coyote cooling system with all of the stock lines as per the FRPP reference diagram (includes heater lines etc). Note: I cut the vaccum line inlet off the stock FRPP intake and custom fit the male connection to a similar location on the alimunim intake (I think this is what Clemson has done but I can not see clearly in the video) - used epoxy and it fits perfict and looks great (only needed some trimming)

I will post pics when I get back home (currently traveling) but you can see clearly in the video posted by Clemson.

[Hammink Performance]

Where can I buy this 90degree valve to screw in the bleeder location at the top of the rad?

[oldguy668]

Take a look at this cooling system schematic:

Cooling circuits.jpg

Hose #2 is not a heater hose as you stated. It goes to the factory recovery tank. Hoses numbered 3 and 4 both go to the recovery tank, but hose number 3 has a check valve in it. If you use a tank with only one upper inlet, you can tee 3 and 4 together, but the check valve has to be between the tee and the tank. Hoses 6 and 7 are the factory heater connections and if no heater is used they should be tee;d together behind the engine. It's a great place to install your gauge sender because there is water flow there all the time. If you check my blog post, the part numbers for all the hoses are there. You will also find some photos and part numbers for using a one-piece NAPA hose to replace hose #15.

[Hammink Performance]

Hi oldguy,

Thank you for the reply.
Maybe I mentioned it wrong, I ment that I had hose 2 hooked up to the same pipe the left heater hose go's too (the lower horizontal connection)
(probably bad english on my side)

Now I have everything like in the drawing, I just need to T 3 and 4 together.
My problem however is that we do not have as many autostores as you guys.

Would you have a part number or info where I can buy this check valve to screw into the radiator?

[ClemsonS197]

The 90* degree fitting that goes in the radiator is standard pipe threads. I don't recall what they are off the top of my head, but my local hardware store had it in the plumbing section. If you call AFCO or Factory Five, I'm sure they know the thread size/pitch.

[oldguy668]

Bad news on the check valve, I'm afraid. It is actually made as part of the hose, and it costs about US$45. The Part Number is BR3Z-8075-B. The fitting you are looking for looks like this one. I'm not sure of the pipe thread size (1/4 or 3/8) but the barb end is 1/4" (5/16 would work too).

_Bto__Dg_Wk___KGrHqEH_C0EvqNyyBClBL8ycG4l4Q___1.JPG

[Hammink Performance]

I found this;
http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/da...ENTIL_GRAU.pdf
Its for fuel but since it's all metal parts inside, I think it can handle hot coolant.

[oldguy668]

That will work, but I think a cheap plastic aquarium check valve will work just as well.

[Jester]

Previously I was asked to post some photo's of my header to side pipe set up (modified FFR J pipes).

I believe FFR sent me a set of 5.0 straight pipes (I think). These took quite a bit of modification for proper fitment – these mods were not cheap. I needed to align and mark where the compound angled cuts were needed, gave to the welders to cut and tack, trial fit, adjust, remark and repeat until correct fitment / alignment. There are 2 compound cuts needed on each pipe (one at the header flange, one at the side pipe flange) and one straight cut needed to adjust the length.

I have attached a photo of the end result – look great and sound fantastic.

I understand FFR are manufacturing cat’s – I plan get a set once available for complete immisions compliance however I can finish the car with the modified straight pipes.

PS_side pipes.jpgDS_side pipes.jpg

[Jester]

Foot Box Mods for Coyote setup

See attached

DS Footbox outside.JPGDS Footbox inside.JPGPS Foofbox Outside.JPGPS Footbox inside.JPG

[Slider]

Mike, can you provide information (pictures) on which hose connections you plugged on the Coyote and what the part numbers are for the plugs you used? Are they just a clamp on product, or how do you attach them? (I've had guys suggest threading the unused ports, but I'm a bit confused. Thanks)

Hi,
I added 2 heater billet aluminum hose plugs to cover the unused water hose connections. These are superior to the rubber hose plugs that are prone to "popping" which then pukes all the coolant. This happens on the hottest days or while racing..

[ClemsonS197]

The billet aluminum hose plugs Mike Forte was talking about do actually work really nice. Ofcourse they are more expensive than rubber caps, but they seem worth the risk to me!
Attachment 9790

The Ford Racing Tech I spoke with this week said you need to bridge the heater input/output even if you don't use a heater for proper head cooling flow. If you block the heater, the rearward drivers side cylinder will be starved for coolant or so I was told.

I believe the DOHC 4.6L had cooling issues with the rearward cylinders as well.

[oldguy668]

I knew about the head overheat problem last year when I plumbed my engine. I used stock heater hoses and tee'd them together behind the heads. I used the branch on the T for the water temp sender location.

[Hammink Performance]

we just ran a hose from one pipe to the other since we do not use a heater, no problems, not even on the track when it gets a full on beating