Midwest Classic Insurance

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  3
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: About the Rivnuts

  1. #1
    ehansen007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Aliso Viejo, CA
    Posts
    1,610
    Post Thanks / Like

    About the Rivnuts

    I saw a post on drag week talking about the rivnuts and I also had a question from a customer on them because they were coming loose or spun in the holes. Make sure when clamping those things that you do it twice. By that I mean that once you squeeze it, make sure to turn the back knob on the tool in a second time (now that the nut is shortened) and squeeze again. You have got to squish/crush those things so they anchor and do not spin or move at all, especially on the top! Just making sure everyone knows this.

    e
    __

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Yucaipa, CA
    Posts
    63
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am getting close to using rivnuts for the first time. NO experience,,, have tools and nuts etc but worried I may get a "spinner". I like the idea of a second squeeze as mentioned here. Is there any advantage to using a dab of epoxy adhesive or something else to add another element of success?

  3. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    950
    Post Thanks / Like
    There are rivet nuts that work better in thin aluminum than the ones supplied by FFR. When I'm using a rivet nut in aluminum I typically use these from McMaster-Carr: 94430A336 . They have a serrated edge on the rim that grips soft metals better than the plane style.

  4. Likes FF33rod, HVACMAN liked this post
  5. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
    401
    Post Thanks / Like
    That's for that bit of info NAZ, I've been putting star washers on them.
    Will have to order some of those good ones.
    '33 Hotrod, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  6. #5
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bonney Lake, Washington
    Posts
    755
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    There are rivet nuts that work better in thin aluminum than the ones supplied by FFR. When I'm using a rivet nut in aluminum I typically use these from McMaster-Carr: 94430A336 . They have a serrated edge on the rim that grips soft metals better than the plane style.
    Naz is spot on, those work much much better!

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  7. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Prairieville, Louisiana
    Posts
    540
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've been using a dab of loctite on mine when I install them.

    I also invested in a better rivnut tool than the one ffr sent. I also give the extra squeeze. Haven't had a problem yet.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  8. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Gatineau, Quebec, canada
    Posts
    290
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    There are rivet nuts that work better in thin aluminum than the ones supplied by FFR. When I'm using a rivet nut in aluminum I typically use these from McMaster-Carr: 94430A336 . They have a serrated edge on the rim that grips soft metals better than the plane style.
    Also make sure that the grip of the Rivnut is correct, the ones from FFR are for the steel tubes but do not always work on the fiberglass well. I went out and got longer ones and made sure that the backside is flat and parallel to the front on the fiberglass parts, if not they drift to one side even with a washer. I also use a washer that has a slightly smaller hole than the rivnut, then drill it using the proper bit size to get the best fit. No problems so far.
    Last edited by AJT '33; 12-07-2018 at 01:11 PM.

  9. #8
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    950
    Post Thanks / Like
    For fiberglass I normally use rivet nuts made for plastics such as these from McMaster-Carr: 97217A359

    I mostly use these in 10-32 and 1/4-20 and will sometimes use flat washers on the back side to spread the load a little better than just the expanding pedals do. But even as designed, for them to pull through the glass would require ripping out a hole in the base material the size of a quarter.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  10. Likes AJT '33 liked this post

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Breeze

Visit our community sponsor