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Thread: Evan's '33 Build #497

  1. #401
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    I'm going with these roll bar tube clamps to mount my roll bars to the frame. The problem with them is that there are opposing Allen bolts that will be a problem once mounted as there is only access from one side. So he machined an insert and tig welded it in place. Now both bolts are accessible from one side. My plan is to make the roll bar fit with the hardtop on so it adds a bit of protection. Only negative to that is that they have to be straight up and down and not high enough for my tall passengers. Anyway, he also chamfered the interior edges in order to pull the bars straight up and out of the waterfall if necessary.

  2. #402
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    Glad to see you are still working to finish. I am 98% done..but I have been sitting there for months. I am wrapping up the interior here soon and probably selling mine to move to my next project. Can't wait to see yours.

  3. #403
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Hey Bob, it's nice to hear from you. I did notice that you were thinking about selling...any offers? Yeah, I've just been busy with family and work and the car has taken a back seat but I'm ready to get it finished. I've contemplated selling mine once I finish and start something else but we will see. I probably wouldn't turn down a reasonable offer. Your car looks great, love the paint.

  4. #404
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    Thanks man. I have had several people show interest but no one make a deal yet. I haven't pushed it much either so not really worried about it. If I get a good offer though..it is gone. I want another project but not another FFR car for now. I am going back to sea soon and won't have that kind of time anymore..so thinking about maybe a new vette and work on that occasionally or maybe a new mustang. Who knows.

  5. #405
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Sounds good. Take care and be safe out there.

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by esff32 View Post
    [IMG]
    I'm going with these roll bar tube clamps to mount my roll bars to the frame. The problem with them is that there are opposing Allen bolts that will be a problem once mounted as there is only access from one side. So he machined an insert and tig welded it in place. Now both bolts are accessible from one side. My plan is to make the roll bar fit with the hardtop on so it adds a bit of protection. Only negative to that is that they have to be straight up and down and not high enough for my tall passengers. Anyway, he also chamfered the interior edges in order to pull the bars straight up and out of the waterfall if necessary.
    Evan
    Curious to see your "double hoop rollbar" I did add a second tube to my rear hoop right down at shoulder harness level for that mount and to add more taco gussets for lateral bracing on the rear hoop. Any x tubes are going to be noggin knockers so the stiffness had to come from somewhere. The final cage was inspected and blessed by a structural engineer specializing in failure inspections and consultations after same.
    I had to do a lot of work to clear the wife's head with my 4 point, mine is not much of an issue. I welded a new chassis receiver just outboard and slightly back of the FF chassis tube and stayed within 3/4" of the inside of the hardtop on mine. The point was enough space for padding and 1/4" extra to avoid squeaks. I used 4 of those camburg fittings on the F-B tubes to connect my front hoop to the back one.
    The front hoop is easy to shape and follow the A pillars but it gets complicated where it has to go through the dash and then it drops through right where the door latch is and where your feet swing through under the dash.
    I got an A-OK on that design as well but I would still encourage a true leg under the front receivers instead of the ganged plates I used.
    DB

  7. #407
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    Evan
    Curious to see your "double hoop rollbar" I did add a second tube to my rear hoop right down at shoulder harness level for that mount and to add more taco gussets for lateral bracing on the rear hoop. Any x tubes are going to be noggin knockers so the stiffness had to come from somewhere. The final cage was inspected and blessed by a structural engineer specializing in failure inspections and consultations after same.
    I had to do a lot of work to clear the wife's head with my 4 point, mine is not much of an issue. I welded a new chassis receiver just outboard and slightly back of the FF chassis tube and stayed within 3/4" of the inside of the hardtop on mine. The point was enough space for padding and 1/4" extra to avoid squeaks. I used 4 of those camburg fittings on the F-B tubes to connect my front hoop to the back one.
    The front hoop is easy to shape and follow the A pillars but it gets complicated where it has to go through the dash and then it drops through right where the door latch is and where your feet swing through under the dash.
    I got an A-OK on that design as well but I would still encourage a true leg under the front receivers instead of the ganged plates I used.
    DB
    Sounds like an engineering PITA. Do you have any pictures of your install? My setup is more because I like the look of the dual bars better. In the end, they will look very similar to the original FFR setup. They will have to be more upright. Im thinking about adding another tube or plate between the two once everything is tacked in for some additional support but by no means is it going to structural if I roll it.

  8. #408
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Hey guys...my thread has officially become a stalled build, haha. As the new year approaches, now more than ever, I need to get this car finished. I wanted to know if anyone has a reasonable body guy in the San Gabriel Valley area that will come to me or is local. I'm looking for someone to sand and smooth out the body seams, help with body gaps, and get it ready to spray. Im not sure if I discussed my plans for paint earlier in my build thread but I'm going to use PlastiDip because I love the satin (stealth) look and I'm not looking for a show queen. I don't even need it primed because the PlastDip can be sprayed right onto the gel coat. The best part is it can be painted over or removed and changed. So, in a nut shell, I'm looking for a body guy that needs side work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Evan

  9. #409
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    It is with reluctance that I have decided to let someone else finish the hotrod. My work schedule has increasingly kept me busier and busier and priorities have shifted. The build thread pretty much chronicles the build process in as much detail as I could provide without seeing it in person. I believe this project is perfect for the person that is looking to finish the build to their liking but doesn't have the time to start the process from scratch. I have upgraded many of the supplied parts to achieve that race look with compromising form and function. A lot of time and money has been spent with the details ensuring a quality build. I would encourage you to come take a look and ride in it but please serious inquiries only. Thank you for looking.

    The current state of the car is as follows:

    - Ca state current registration and insured
    - Running and Driving
    - Body work and paint needs to be completed to your taste
    - Interior needs finishing
    - Hardtop included
    - I have dual hoop roll bars that are fabricated and ready for install or keep the single style
    - Center counsel needs to be made to house the Joes Racing switches and/or radio
    - I may throw in some stereo equipment if we can agree on price
    - I also have PlastiDip sprayable gallons and Clear for a satin finish. (Stormcloud Gray) Kit also includes the HVLP sprayer if you are interested in going the dark/satin stealth look like I was.

    Please go through my build page and look at the details and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to call. The car is extremely fast and is rated at approximately 400 HP and 400 lb. ft. of torque. I have spent a lot of money on accessories including Millerspeed pulleys, Canton Racing road race oil pan, BBK headers, Powermaster chrome alternator, Boyd fuel tank, extensive use of sound deadening material and ceramic coatings to keep the heat to a minimum; just to name a few.

    $38,000 or best offer.

    Evan
    (626) 590-1828 Cell *Car is located in La Verne, Ca (So Cal.)


    Last edited by esff32; 12-18-2015 at 08:12 PM.

  10. #410
    Ang's 33 HRC amasciarelli21's Avatar
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    Hi Evan, sorry to hear you wont be able to finish the car i was looking forward to seeing it in color.
    Hope whom ever gets it continues w/ the same level of quality as you did.
    Good luck w/ the sale.

    Ang

  11. #411
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Thanks Ang, yeah it's a little tough to let it go but it's time. I really enjoyed the process to this point and hopefully someone will take it from here and make it their own. Merry Christmas.

  12. #412
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Car SOLD, Thanks Gary

  13. #413
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Well...the car left my house with the new owner today. It was bittersweet. I want to personally thank the members of this great community for the support and encouraging words over the course of the build. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. Cheers!



    Last edited by esff32; 01-09-2016 at 09:59 PM.

  14. #414
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    he is getting a great car. Congrats.

  15. #415
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    he is getting a great car. Congrats.
    Thanks Wallace, I appreciate that. Good luck selling the Daytona, really surprised its not gone yet...you did a nice job.

  16. #416
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    The car looks great and you had some great ideas hope things work out for you and we see your work again. Good luck.

  17. #417
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    Thanks Dave, I see another FF in my future.

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