Evan's '33 Build #497

[wallace18]

Looks good. I am using the same engine /trans combo. Could you take a picture of the P/S motor after you reclocked it? Thanks for such a good thread.

[hdnik]

Evan, did your kit come with a hood liner and a trunk liner? If so can you post a pic? I don't remember seeing that on my parts list and its now on the FFR site as part of the package in the "what you get" list.

[esff32]

Thanks. I cant wait to fire it up and see how it runs. I will see if I can get my camera in close enough to show you the bolt mounting locations. hdnik, I'm not sure if I have it either. I will have to go through my inventory again to check.

[esff32]

Looks good. I am using the same engine /trans combo. Could you take a picture of the P/S motor after you reclocked it? Thanks for such a good thread.

Because I had to clock the EPS motor downward to clear the oil pan, the housing where the wires come out of the motor hit the motor mount bracket. I removed it and used a grinder to put a small radius on it. I used the existing top hole and rotated it clockwise and aligned it in the factory other hole toward the outside of the car. I then drilled out that third hole you see in the picture. I opened up the other holes a size or so because i didn't want to fight To realign the bolts. I hope this helps.

[ehansen007]

Hey Evan, you may need to take the old Italian reforming tool to that pan to give you some clearance. Almost all of us had to rotate that steering unit so don't feel bad.

[esff32]

Hey Evan, you may need to take the old Italian reforming tool to that pan to give you some clearance. Almost all of us had to rotate that steering unit so don't feel bad.

I figured it was a common problem... FFR keeping us on our toes.

[jayguy]

It's a pre-planned modification, so everyone can feel like they've done something special.

[esff32]

That's a good analogy jayguy. It adds to the sense of accomplishment I guess.

[Olli]

I can't understand why FFR tells guys to install the power steering unit prior to dropping in the engine. Install engine, now tighten that motor mount nut, locate the power steering unit with the correct clocking with respect to clearing the oil pan, drill new holes if necessary. The ps unit will not fit properly with all oil pans. You need to use a pan that is based on a stock pan e.g. Champ Pan. The interference that you discovered between the ps unit and the bottom of the motor mount shouldn't be there if the unit was clocked as per FFR. That isn't to say that that clocking is right. The bottom of the mount was actually changed to accommadate the unit. On the pre-production chassis I had to trim close to a 1/2" off of the lower part of the mount. Also, the original mounting flange only had holes for the standard steering flange bearing.

Here are some old pictures.

Final position after modifying the motor mount and drilling the holes for the ps unit.



original motor mount


another of the final position


and another

[wallace18]

Thanks for the photos and hints. I will install mine after the motor is in. I like that light weight steering shaft to the dash. LOL

[esff32]

Thanks for the info Olli. Boy you had to remove a lot of material from your motor mount bracket. I agree that I probably should have put the motor in first. I will have to figure out a way to tighten that nut because the last thing I want to do is pull the motor again.

[esff32]

I had my front rims and tires mounted and balanced today. I know I made the right choice now after seeing them on the car. I will have to wait a few months to get the rears but they will be worth the wait. Here are a couple of pics.

[wallace18]

Awesome tires and wheels.

[esff32]

Awesome tires and wheels.

Thank you. It was not an easy decision, not only the style but the sizing.

[hdnik]

Frankly Evan I am blown away at your progress in just a few weeks. You got your kit just before Christmas right? I got mine mid January and only have the front end mocked up. I gotta get my *** in gear and start re-prioritizing things.

Kudos man!

[esff32]

Thanks. I did, I got it on December 23rd. I was just looking at my progress today and I was thinking that I feel like I haven't been in the garage all that much. Just a couple hours here and there. I am trying to balance family time and we just had another baby so I would imagine I will probably slow down a bit. To this point I haven't spent one full day in the garage. My budget is starting to get thin but I have a vision of what I want the car to look like so I don't want to do it half ***. If it takes me longer to finish, so be it. Thanks for the kind words and I am looking forward to seeing your '33 come together. Nice '67 Chevelle by the way... I had one in college. It was one of my favorite cars.

[esff32]

I installed the headers today. They are BBK 15110 polished ceramic. The fitment was pretty good with a nice thick flange. The short FFR exhaust pipe that bolts up to the header appears to be hitting the bell housing around the starter. I might have to persuade it to fit.

[BenBB]

Looking REALLY good!

[esff32]

Thanks. I appreciate it.

[hdnik]

Evan,

Getting ready to mock up the rear end. I was curious as to why you chose to install brakes on the backside of the axle. In speaking with Kevin Shea, he suggested that I mount them on the front side to facilitate parking brake cable reach. This was confirmed for me by the brake instructions. (Page 5)

6. Install the brake caliper brackets so that the caliper will mount on the front side of the axle. Use the four 3/8”-16 flange bolts provided and torque them to 45-50 ft/lbs.

[esff32]

The rear end is out of a '96-'98 Mustang Cobra. I bought it rebuilt and pre-assembled from a company on eBay. I just threw it in as is. I'm not sure if I can reverse them or not and if there is a benefit one way or the other. Have you purchased the parking break cables yet and if so what part # did you find. I have seen a lot of info about this subject but I have yet to find out a definite solution.

[hdnik]

I bought the 11.65 rear brake kit from FFR PN 14834. It came with 2 e- brake cables PN 14690. Like the front brakes I guess you have to swap left to right to keep bleeder up. Other than cables reaching I don't suppose there is any benefit functionally.

Maybe someone else can opine on this matter!

[esff32]

That's what I was thinking, I looked at the bleeder screws and they are pointing upward. I can't seem to find that part #. Lokar makes a universal fit one but I understand people have had problems with that also.

[hdnik]

I will be working on mine tomorrow nite and will take some pics. You can see if there are any differences between your set up and mine. Not sure if that'll help at all.

[esff32]

Thanks. I appreciate it.

[esff32]

I was commenting on Wallace18's build page that the oil filter may hit his EPS motor like it did on mine. He is also running a 351 windsor. I may have found a solution and I wanted to know if anyone has used this part before. It is a Ford Racing 90 degree adapter part # M-6880-A50. According to Summit, it is compatible with my '69 year block. My thought is if I point it toward the front of the car with a short filter, it should work. I would rather not use a filter reclocation adapter. If anyone has any thoughts, I would greatly appreciate it.

[ehansen007]

They also make a shorty oil filter too that will work. Evan, you are flying man. Money held me up too. But look at it this way, you don't want to blow through it either. It's too much fun.

[esff32]

Do you happen to know what brand. I have looked at a couple short filters and have not been able to find something that will work. The filter needs to be no taller than 4". I'm addicted to buying parts, it's like Christmas all year! I may need your help on tackling the electrical. Remember Erik... Electrical assistance = Booze for you.

On another note, do you know what steering wheel hub adapter application the hotrod uses. I put a seat in the car and it as I suspected, the steering wheel is too close to me. I need to get a short hub. I'm sure NRG has something.

[Olli]

As I mentioned in the other thread, WIX 51311 (Napa 1311). The 51311 has a published height of 3.372" and the Purolator L17019 has a published height of 3.25". FFR actually mentions the L17019 in the manual. All of those filters are easy to buy. I use the WIX 51311 and keep a few on the shelf. You can see how it fits in the 4th picture that I posted earlier in the thread.

Olli

[esff32]

Thanks Olli. I had a hard time finding the dimensions but after a little more research, I was able to find it. Hopefully one of those will work.

[esff32]

I haven't quite finished plumbing the rear brakes because I am not sure if the body will rub on the brake line where I ran it. I am holding it on with clecos until I have an opportunity to test fit the body. In the meantime, I was wondering if anyone has a photo of this area on their '33 so I can see if I need to re-plumb it. I know the manual says to keep the line inside that angled square tubing because the wheel well area is close. I'm not sure why i didn't turn it inward before the vertical tube but apparently I had a synapse collapse perhaps. Any help would be great.

[hdnik]

I will be working on mine tomorrow nite and will take some pics. You can see if there are any differences between your set up and mine. Not sure if that'll help at all.

Evan. Rather than me posting here, go to the last post on my build page to view the rear end and brake brackets from my 8.8 here... http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...(Canadian-33-)

[esff32]

Will do. Thanks.

[hdnik]

As I mentioned in the other thread, WIX 51311 (Napa 1311). The 51311 has a published height of 3.372" and the Purolator L17019 has a published height of 3.25". FFR actually mentions the L17019 in the manual. All of those filters are easy to buy. I use the WIX 51311 and keep a few on the shelf. You can see how it fits in the 4th picture that I posted earlier in the thread.

Olli

image.jpg

WIX - Oil Filter
Part # 51311

Product Details Compatibility
WIX - Oil Filter
Part Number: 51311
Line: WIX
1 Year Limited Warranty
UPC: 765809513112
Detailed Description
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.372 in.
Outside Diameter (Top): 3.661 in.
Micron Rating: 19
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting (PSI): 16
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=8/21
Burst Pressure (PSI): 331
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM

Gasket Diameters

Outside Diameter: 2.834 in.
Inside Diameter: 2.462 in.
Thickness: 0.200 in.

[esff32]

Thanks for the details. I will have to pick one up and give it a try.

[esff32]

I mounted the radiator and grill this afternoon however I cannot figure out how the overflow tank mounts up to it. The manual has an exploded view of it however it does not give detail and it is a poor quality photocopy (blurry). It looks like it lines up with the tabs that mount the fan to the radiator but it the lock nuts hit the fan. I would appreciate it if someone could send me a few detailed pics of how it mounts.

[hdnik]

Looking great Evan. Wish I could help you on this question... Rest assured I'll be goin' to school on the reply you get.

[Tony Zullo]

HI Evan if you put it on the side of the radiator it really looks out of place , i had put it on the fire wall looked realy good!!
Tony@ffr

[ehansen007]

Your Honor, I'd like that last remark stricken from the record! haha just kidding Tony. I think a clean firewall looks better and when the expansion on the side of the radiator, it looks the part of the cooling system and it's all in one place. Just my opinion. Give me a call Evan and I'll let you know how it fits.

[esff32]

I will give you a call later today Erik. Also did you happen see the earlier photo of the 60" brake line going toward the rear end? In your opinion, is it going to hit the body? I haven't had help available to test fit the body to check. I don't want to permanently attach it until I verify it won't hit.