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Thread: Wallace18's 33 build

  1. #41
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    Well I ran into a snag. I finished up my brake lines. and the next thing in the manual was mount the steering wheel. The adapter slid down on the column easy and I noticed no air gap. Sure enough if I tighten the nut by hand 1/8 turn the whole thing locks up. I can't be sure if it is a bad adapter or column. I just know it won't work with what I got. I am calling FFR today when I get time.

    DSC00155.jpg

  2. #42
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Yer rockn this thing. Looks Great.
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  3. #43
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    After talking to FFR, I made a 1/8" washer to shim the adapter and all works fine now.

  4. #44
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    I will watch for the same issue. Thanks
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  5. #45
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    I installed the fuse panel and temped in the wire harness. I installed the horns and finished up the steering wheel. I am waiting on my motor and trans mounts. Joe at FFR said maybe next week. I mocked up my radiator, condensor and grill. Then I drilled all the aluminum I could and put 2 coats of lizard skin sound deadner on them. I will add the ceramic heat barrier next. I caught the flu for a few days so it slowed me down some. I got back at it some today.

    DSC00157.jpgDSC00160.jpgDSC00161.jpgDSC00165.jpg

  6. #46
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Looking good!

  7. #47
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I installed the fuse panel and temped in the wire harness. I installed the horns and finished up the steering wheel. I am waiting on my motor and trans mounts. Joe at FFR said maybe next week. I mocked up my radiator, condensor and grill. Then I drilled all the aluminum I could and put 2 coats of lizard skin sound deadner on them. I will add the ceramic heat barrier next. I caught the flu for a few days so it slowed me down some. I got back at it some today.



    DSC00157.jpgDSC00160.jpgDSC00161.jpgDSC00165.jpg
    Who's fan shroud is that or did you fab it yourself. I have to get one.
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  8. #48
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I installed the fuse panel and temped in the wire harness. I installed the horns and finished up the steering wheel. I am waiting on my motor and trans mounts. Joe at FFR said maybe next week. I mocked up my radiator, condensor and grill. Then I drilled all the aluminum I could and put 2 coats of lizard skin sound deadner on them. I will add the ceramic heat barrier next. I caught the flu for a few days so it slowed me down some. I got back at it some today.

    DSC00157.jpgDSC00160.jpgDSC00161.jpgDSC00165.jpg
    Are you putting the deadener on the panels that ill be covered by the carpet, or on the underside of the vehicle?
    FFR HR #530
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  9. #49
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    The shroud I got from Michael Everson. He has some nice stuff on his website. I bought a few tools from him as well. He is a great guy to work with. The lizard skin is on the outside. I am using the sound deadner and ceramic coating. You have to install the deadner first then the ceramic. On the inside I am using a differant material from Eastwood for heat and sound control. I used this method on a 78 Vette I did a resto rod deal on and had great results.

    http://www.replicaparts.com/

  10. #50
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    I may be asking the previous question a different way, and if so, I apologize!

    Is there a benefit to using the Lizard Skin on the exterior (both of their products), and then the Eastwood product for the interior. Why not use both Lizard Skin products and then the Eastwood product over the top all on the interior panels of the car? Is there a particular benefit to both coats of the Lizard Skin on the outside, with the Eastwood on the inside? Or, just personal preference?

    I am not challenging you, rather just trying to understand for my own clarification. Thanks!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  11. #51
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    Thanks Steve, I was actually wondering the same thing....maybe putting the lizard skin on the outside protects the aluminum from the elements?
    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    I may be asking the previous question a different way, and if so, I apologize!

    Is there a benefit to using the Lizard Skin on the exterior (both of their products), and then the Eastwood product for the interior. Why not use both Lizard Skin products and then the Eastwood product over the top all on the interior panels of the car? Is there a particular benefit to both coats of the Lizard Skin on the outside, with the Eastwood on the inside? Or, just personal preference?

    I am not challenging you, rather just trying to understand for my own clarification. Thanks!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  12. #52
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    The shroud I got from Michael Everson. He has some nice stuff on his website. I bought a few tools from him as well. He is a great guy to work with. The lizard skin is on the outside. I am using the sound deadner and ceramic coating. You have to install the deadner first then the ceramic. On the inside I am using a differant material from Eastwood for heat and sound control. I used this method on a 78 Vette I did a resto rod deal on and had great results.

    http://www.replicaparts.com/
    Thanks wallace18... I will be ordering one for sure!
    Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
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  13. #53
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    The lizard skin is also like some OEM coverings for body protection. It will help with stones and such. To me it serves no use on the inside. This is where the additional sound proofing made for the inside has it over the lizard skin. I guess one could use the lizard skin inside and out. If you watch the 2 guys garage video of the 33 build you will see them use it on the outside. This is just my way of doing it. It has worked for me on several cars. TEHO.

  14. #54
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    I was able to do some work on the A/C part of the 33 the last 2 days. I finished up the grill, Cond, cond lines, fan and radiator work. I made some extra braces for the lines. I installed A/C's for years and I know what vibration can do to aluminum lines. I also installed the bulkhead fittings and evaporator. I used 1/4-20 rivnuts and S/S bolts for the mounting. Hopefully my mounts should be here late Tuesday and I can install the engine and trans. Then I really can start moving along. I am really enjoying this build. I can't remember when I had this much fun building a car.

    DSC00166.jpgDSC00167.jpgDSC00168.jpgDSC00169.jpg

  15. #55
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    After hearing another 33 builder having rad mount problems I decided to mount mine just to see. It fit fine. Looks cool too. I hope to mount engine and trans this week.


    DSC00173.jpg

  16. #56
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    After hearing another 33 builder having rad mount problems I decided to mount mine just to see. It fit fine. Looks cool too. I hope to mount engine and trans this week.


    DSC00173.jpg
    See now that's great news. I heard the same things and was a bit worried... I want to send mine out to be plated. I'll likely mock it up just to make sure all the brackets work and align anyway... But good to know F5 has debugged quite a few things.
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  17. #57
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Wallace. Can you take some pics of the brackets from the side?
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  18. #58
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    Here is a picture of the side. Note how the slots for the grill bolts show out the back . I pulled the grill as far forward as I could. This gave me room to mount without a problem.

    DSC00174.jpg

  19. #59
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    Today was a good day! My motor and trans mounts came in at 11:00. I was able to install the engine, trans and drive shaft. Also I installed the radiator/grill unit as well. I had to trim the drivers side motor mount a little to clear the Electra-Steer unit. Other than that it went in very easy. That 5.0 was made to fit in that chassis well.



    DSC00176.jpgDSC00178.jpgDSC00182.jpg

  20. #60
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Looks great man, soon you will be driving it, and then the 818 will come
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  21. #61
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    I was able to finish up the radiator hoses, mock up the carb /air cleaner, install the battery and kill switch. I also am slowly working on the wiring harness. I had to modify it for my application so far. This is so much fun it should be illegal!

    DSC00183.jpgDSC00184.jpgDSC00185.jpg

  22. #62
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    I thought I was moving along at a decent pace, but man, you are flying. Looks great so far.

  23. #63
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Yer both moving very fast. Congrats to you gents.
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  24. #64
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    I hooked up my coolant bottle and ran a aluminum line down the frame to the radiator. I also ran an alum. fuel line and mounted my Boyd gas tank. I made a brace for the clutch cable. It is a little crude looking now but works great. When I pull off the firewall for engine turning I will pretty up the braket some. No one will see it, but I know it is there. It really cut down on the flex. I made it out of scrap from a gate opener.

    DSC00187.jpgDSC00188.jpgDSC00189.jpg
    Last edited by wallace18; 03-02-2013 at 04:08 PM.

  25. #65
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    solving the firewall flex this way imho is a no brainer! good job!

  26. #66
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    Man wallace you are really moving along!

  27. #67
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    I was able to hook up my fuel pump, tank, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and carb. I also wired the fuel pump and tank level sender. I hooked up as much exhaust as I could. Rear split exhaust still on B/O. I'll start on my A/C lines and dash wiring while I wait.

    DSC00190.jpgDSC00192.jpgDSC00193.jpgDSC00195.jpg

  28. #68
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I was able to hook up my fuel pump, tank, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and carb. I also wired the fuel pump and tank level sender. I hooked up as much exhaust as I could. Rear split exhaust still on B/O. I'll start on my A/C lines and dash wiring while I wait.

    DSC00190.jpgDSC00192.jpgDSC00193.jpgDSC00195.jpg
    Wallace... Yer a maniac!
    Looks like we are using the same setup... Fuel pump, regulator and boyd tank. Did you use aluminum line from your AN fittings and braided lines or the rubber? I was figuring on using metal myself.
    Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
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  29. #69
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    I used an aluminum line from Summit 3/8". It was very easy to work with. The fellow who gave me the FFR tour told me that is all he uses. He gave me a few tips as well. Heck I am retired and this is like playing golf for me. I love this sort of work. If I am lucky enough to go to heaven some day, I'll build Factory five stuff there.
    Last edited by wallace18; 03-04-2013 at 06:39 PM.

  30. #70
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    Today I installed the trunk top, the back aluminum next to the gas tank and the floors. I had to lay a seat in there and sit in it once. I was happy with how I fit. I am 6'3" and feel comfortable. Here is some shots and you can see the lizard skin on the bottom.

    DSC00197.jpgDSC00199.jpgDSC00198.jpgDSC00200.jpg

  31. #71
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    I made my own dash plate out of 14 ga. aluminum. I copied the FFR panel but added 1 inch all the way around. I did the engine turn finish on my drill press. I also installed some A/C lines today.

    DSC00204.jpgDSC00205.jpgDSC00207.jpg

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  33. #72
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    Friday I finished up my A/C lines and heater hoses. I mounted the valve inside. Hopefully that will work out OK. Today I worked on the wiring. I have everthing but the lights and dash gauges working now. My wheels are here and I am going to put on the tires this week and hopefully put the body on for the first time on Friday. Stay tooned for more action.

    DSC00212.jpgDSC00214.jpgDSC00215.jpg
    Last edited by wallace18; 03-10-2013 at 05:18 PM.

  34. #73
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    What wheels and sizes did you go with.
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  35. #74
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    I got Summit 17x8- 5.25"BS front and 18x9- 6.0" BS rear Legend 5 wheels. I was able to get them quick. My original FFR wheels are backordered. So I canceled out of them. I needed to get the chassis rolling. I need my lift for a clutch job on another car.
    Last edited by wallace18; 03-11-2013 at 05:44 PM.

  36. #75
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    It Lives!!!! After a few days of fixings oil, coolant and brake fluid leaks I was able to drive the gocart around to the neighbors. My wife helped bleed the brakes so she called shotgun. It runs perfect. Lots of power. Breaks the wheels loose at 1/4 throttle. Take a look at my high tech gas pedal cable setup. It is 40 days since I picked it up at Wareham. I have done all the work myself so far. This is a great kit. I highly recommend it to anyone who has doubts. You must have good skills. But it is so much fun. I am not a car warrior but you never know! LOL.

    DSC00220.jpgDSC00221.jpgDSC00222.jpg

  37. #76
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    That's awesome...I gocarted mine the same way (string). But 40 days? Very impressive and nice job!

  38. #77
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    40 days, by yourself, must be some kind of record. Nice job!
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

  39. #78
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Outstanding
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  40. #79
    Senior Member esff32's Avatar
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    I can't believe it... That's awesome. So jealous. Great job.

  41. #80
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    Well I have not posted for a week now. I came down with a bad internal infection and fought a fever for 4 days. I am fine now and back at it. I worked on the trans tunnel and will mount it tomorrow. I finished up some wiring as well. I was able to mount the body using a winch and straps by myself. It worked very easy to my surprise. The firewall is off on the LS. Where did I hear that one before? So off the body came. Today I made holes. I cut out for the gas cap, dash insert I made, the access panels in the front, A/C and defrost vents. I was glad I did this outside. Fiberglass dust city. I broke my camera. I had to borrow the wife's. Don't tell her! I see everyone else is making progress as well. Keep up the good work!.

    DSC02868.jpgDSC02864.jpg

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