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Thread: Nick's Build Page (Canadian '33 #???)

  1. #41
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Engine un-crating day today. One of my techs at the dealership brought the cherry picker from work. Set in on a set of Motofeet and parked it at the back of the garage until we need her later this summer. She's a beauty eh? 302/352hp/329tq at the crank with accessories. Thanks to Al Beix at WCC, and Norm Wilson at Fortin's Engines (both in Chilliwack BC) who builds them for Al.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
    Last edited by hdnik; 04-28-2013 at 06:17 PM.
    Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
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  2. #42
    Senior Member narkosys's Avatar
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    How was the experience dealing with them? I am thinking of getting them to build a 427 for me for when I build a coupe. (yes, I have gone a tad insane :P )

    Can't wait to hear it run.

    P

  3. #43
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    They were great. Norm kept me in the loop, he took pictures all through the build from machining to completion. Being Canadian was a big bonus for me as well because brokerage fees from the USA are ridiculous for large items. The price was competitive in Canadian funds. In the end I think a great choice. Plus he originally suggested 8-10 weeks. It was built in 6 and on my doorstep before 7th week ended... So under promised and over delivered.
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  4. #44
    Senior Member narkosys's Avatar
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    Nice. I live only a few hours away so my plan is to just drive down to Chilliwack and pick it up along with the tranny.

    P

  5. #45
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    That is a great looking setup. Should be a ton of fun.

  6. #46
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Spent some quality time in the garage this weekend. Finally.
    Got the firewall back from powder and decided to lizard skin it... Both products SC first and CI after a day.
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    While waiting for everything to dry I buttoned up the fuel lines, fittings and pump. Used some heat shield to help protect from muffler.
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    Once complete I made a pot of coffee and set to polishing the 10-32 stainless button heads for the firewall.... I knew I should have bought a buffing wheel for my bench grinder... I still have no feeling in my right thumb and index finger. Lol
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    Tedious work to clean up the edges of the firewall before mounting but I really like the "thud" sound it makes now. According to the folks at Lizard skin, the CI product will help reduce heat even when applied inside.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

    Well that was my weekend. Seems like I'm a turtle compare to many of you... But I just plod along and and before you know it the day is gone. Funny thing is this darn smile I have on my face when I look in the mirror... Can't figure it out.
    Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
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  7. #47
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    Looking great! I also have the grin as well as time goes so fast while working on the 33 for me. Don't worry about how fast it goes along. You are doing a great job. Enjoy. What color did you choose for the firewall? I can't tell from the photos.

  8. #48
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Near chrome, same as the suspension.
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  9. #49
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    I got really lucky. While premature, they were available so I scooped them up. Now I need suggestions on where they might be mounted... Particularly the front one.

    image.jpg
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  10. #50
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    Great score on the plates.

  11. #51
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Boy déjà vu day today.

    Ditched the F5 shocks and springs for adjustable QA1's from Dr. Ruth. 425's up front and 325's in rear.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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  12. #52
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Another Dr. Ruth addition. Resolves 2 issues I've had concerns for.

    1. The location of tire in the rear wheel opening, being forward of centre; particularly noticeable with a full fender car.
    2. Therefore the inability to run a rear tire taller that about 26.5 inches

    The Doctors' simple solution... Lengthen the wheel base. Ideally an inch but that may require the need for a longer driveshaft. I should be able to get up to 3/4 of an inch using these adjustable lower control arms and once ride height is set, re-adjust the pinion angle to spec... Maybe -2 degrees from inline?(suggestions are welcome on angle) with adjustable upper arms.

    Mission completed.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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  13. #53
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdnik View Post
    Another Dr. Ruth addition. Resolves 2 issues I've had concerns for.

    1. The location of tire in the rear wheel opening, being forward of centre; particularly noticeable with a full fender car.
    2. Therefore the inability to run a rear tire taller that about 26.5 inches

    The Doctors' simple solution... Lengthen the wheel base. Ideally an inch but that may require the need for a longer driveshaft. I should be able to get up to 3/4 of an inch using these adjustable lower control arms and once ride height is set, re-adjust the pinion angle to spec... Maybe -2 degrees from inline?(suggestions are welcome on angle) with adjustable upper arms.

    Mission completed.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
    I have been thinking of installing the adjustable control arms also, if it's not too intrusive, would you mind posting where your got them and how much?

    thanks,
    Nevin

  14. #54
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Dan Ruth (aka Dr. Ruth) at Innovative Rodding Specialists (www.innovativerodding.com). They were part of a larger order's total, but they'd have accounted for roughly $500 of the whole thing.
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  15. #55
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Installed power brake booster today... Very slick set up... See details at this link
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...875#post100875

    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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  16. #56
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    Looks great! Are you going to have enclosed side panels?

  17. #57
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Yes sir. It will be close imho, i may have to use a smaller master.
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  18. #58
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Did some rough measuring for hood and side panels using tape. Looks like about 3/4 inch clearance conservatively.
    Added a chrome lids and an ssbc proportioning valve and finished brake lines. Fussy job eh... But fun. Used the nickel copper stuff. Much easier to deal with, no joints and nicer flares.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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  19. #59
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    Looks great ! I like all the shiny stuff. I wish I would have used differant brake lines.

  20. #60
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Thanks wallace. Looking forward to seeing yours painted. Man you rocked that build. I hope to get mine carted before end of summer, seems every step takes me an entire weekend to complete... But thats my fun time i guess. I'm only building one so may as well take my time eh?
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  21. #61
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Just back from vacation week in Vegas, and have made a decision to go with the ISIS power management system.... So we again have some parts for sale

    Wiring Harness - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rness-for-sale
    Seats - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Seats-for-sale
    Wilwood M/C's and Pedals - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r /> -for-sale

    ALL SOLD... Thanks All
    Last edited by hdnik; 06-20-2013 at 12:25 PM.
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  22. #62
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Well its been a couple months since the engine and trans arrived and was parked at the back of the garage, image.jpgimage.jpg but today we took it out of its little house of cardboard and installed it in its new home. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

    All went very well. It looks great thanks to Norm Wilson at Fortins Engines in Chilliwack BC.. No problem with the power steering motor clocking, though i was prepared. Clearly FFR has supplied 2 sets of mounting holes and the lower set worked fine... No re- drilling required. image.jpg

    Sone small thing. The big ph8a filter needed to be replaced with one that has a short narrower body... No probs other than that.image.jpg

    All in all about 3 hours work. image.jpgimage.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hdnik; 06-29-2013 at 05:40 PM.
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  23. #63
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    Looking great Nick!

  24. #64
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Returned from a few fun days in Nashville TN. Back to work in the car!

    Thought it time to mock up the exhaust. On the advice of Olli at the other forum, i went went with Magnaflows 14362. Not as pretty as the F5 cans but i know Magnaflows... Unsure of the F5 ones plus im still waiting on a backordered muffler (was only shipped one) http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316833

    Rather than use the pipe extesion he suggested (although i did order them too) i think i can make up the couple inches in lenth with these clamps. I just havent figured out the best way of using the stock hardware with them yet, but thats for tomorrow maybe.

    The ford racing short ceramics fit perfectly and everything went together pretty easily.

    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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  25. #65
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    Nick, depending where you want your exh tips, you may want to lengthen them some. I had to use different tips to get mine past the body.

  26. #66
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Nick, depending where you want your exh tips, you may want to lengthen them some. I had to use different tips to get mine past the body.
    Funny you mention it. I was wondering that myself. Ive been trying to find posts about it. I think i will post up a question in the exhaust area.
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  27. #67
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    It seems the exhaust is proving more challenging than i expected. These cheap stainless clamps were not holding very tight and were sure to leak. I used a tube spreader to modify the pipe extension so that all the joints lapped from the rear of the joint. That meant spreading the header extension so the magnaflow would fit snuggly over it, then spreading the extension to fit over the magnaflow exit, and finally spreading the rear exhaust tube to fit over that. I them used magnaflow band clamps (very sturdy items) to tighten it all down. Solid as a rock!
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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  28. #68
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    Those are some stout looking clamps. Wait till you do the rear pipes. Then the real fun starts. LOL.

  29. #69
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Yes i can already sense that.
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  30. #70
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    FINALLY got to complete the exhaust today. Im sure I'll have to tweet it once body goes on but for now all measurements are pretty good.

    Given the revisions I had to make for the shorter Magnaflows, My buddy had a great idead. With the big band clamps it was all very stiff but we had lateral movement, so we threaded the factory five hangers, al little high heat aluminum paint and a 3/8 nut to pull the system side to side. You can walk on the mufflers its so taught!

    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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  31. #71
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Exhaust system looks very stout Nick, Magnaflows should sound very good also. I guess I will be using the FFR mufflers for now as my budget is getting tight.
    keep up the good work.

    Nevin

  32. #72
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    I know the feeling. I'm frustrated lately with my inability to get things accomplished. Seems every weekend is tied up with something. My to do list is getting longer every time i go into the garage. Almost like I'm going backwards.

    Ive convince my wife to take a weeks holiday with me in mid september. She too has a bunch of things she wants to get done. My hopes is i can get something done on the 33 and clock a few miles on our Harleys.

    I want to get it fired before winter, so i don't think its a lofty goal..., but at my turtle pace lately... Who knows.
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  33. #73
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    As i prepare for the wiring (isis system) i thought it time to pre-fit the aluminum. Got as far as the floor. Next Tim's under tank piece and trunk. Went well. Had to cut off the footwell sides as taught in the build school. All went well with a little patience. Surprised how well the tunnel fit in after what i had read before.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

    It is clearer to me now where all the modules will go.
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  34. #74
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    More aluminum today, trunk, tunnel, gas tank mounting and battery tray mounting.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

    I will have to make a patch panel and move the hole for the filler neck in the trunk. Forgot my FFR tank had the newer filler neck location down low.
    Last edited by hdnik; 09-07-2013 at 08:15 PM.
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  35. #75
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Finished more mock up on aluminum, tank, Tim Whitaker floor panels and under tank panel as well as startedted the mock up on the ISIS system.

    See more pics at my build site http://www.lowntubd.blogspot.ca
    image.jpgimage.jpg
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  36. #76
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    image_zpsfecaaed9.jpg
    Test photobucket
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  37. #77
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Made the aluminum panels to support the ISIS front power cell and the master cell. They will go were the master cylinders were before i put the power brake package on.
    Here is the cardboard mock up
    image.jpg
    Had to cut away the 2 posts that held the brake parts
    image.jpg
    Made a support that will be riveted to back side of firewall chassis and used 2 bolts that hold up the pedal box to support panel.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

    Still have to mount the modules. Now the access panel in the cowl of the body will be used to maintain the fuses in the powercell rather than brake maintenance.
    Last edited by hdnik; 09-27-2013 at 06:43 PM.
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  38. #78
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Picked up the shut off and the Dakota digital dash today. Should have all the parts to start wiring.... Stay tuned

    image.jpgimage.jpg
    Last edited by hdnik; 09-29-2013 at 06:13 PM.
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  39. #79
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    This weekend I thought it time to get the lizard skin on the aluminum. 20 ml of sound and 2 coats of ceramic... Same as firewall. The stuff really deadens the sound of the panels.
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    You have to take time to set the spray gun and air pressure as per instructions. Ends up looking like bed liner... Maybe a bit specklier... If thats a word

    Got my wife and grandsons stripping the seats I bought a few months back down to the frames. The bolsters have to go to fit my fat ***. I doubt i will do the upholstery myself. Those are the finishings that i will leaves to the pros. This is what they looked like before i set them loose.
    image.jpg
    image.jpgimage.jpg
    Last edited by hdnik; 09-29-2013 at 06:26 PM.
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  40. #80
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Ok. A job I'd been putting off out of fear. Now too many of you this may seem like nothing but for me... Huge!
    Tinkered all my adult life with cars, but honestly never had my fingers near an automatic transmission. There i said it. Always had a gear car and i can wrap my head around that, but the Automatic transmission has always been a mystery to me.

    Today i pulled the pan to install the Lokar shift lever and shifter. To my amazement... Not so bad. Followed the instructions, watch some you tube videos and it all went well. Darn proud of myself
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    Next.. Location of the shifter. After much research online and in email with Dr. Ruth and Bruce H. I decided on a Lokar 6" shifter... Problem is that the mounting hardware sits forward of the tailstock which with an AOD, leaves the shifter too far forward and close to the dash. I want it to fall in hand more like a 5 speed would without a long bent shifter arm.

    So i used the rear mount bracket as the rear bracket then took a trip to the hardware store for a bunch of parts and u-bolts exhaust hangers and washers and nuts and cam up with a solid way to support the rear of the mounting bracket at the back of the trans. image.jpgimage.jpg

    Of course this left the supplied shifter rod too short, so out i went to pick up some aluminum 1/4" rod to thread with my trusty tap and die set... Mission accomplished. Once i make a few cuts in the tunnel should be good to go.
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
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