Hope to buy, but still have questions.

[Jeff33Ford]

I have been in communication by email with FFR. But they seem a lttle put out. Maybe because they getting so many orders. They said lead time is 8 months. That would not stop me from ordering but I would like to know I am making the right decision.
I am 6'3". Any tall drivers out there? I found one from a dealer in Detorit and sit in it. It was a little crapped but it seems the pedals could be set back a lot further. I live near the Toledo OH area. If anyone is willing to talk and or show off there car I would very much appreciate it. I know this is a lot to throw on a first post. But I hope to start a build thread of my own like so many of you have.

Questions I was trying to get answers to:
If using efi carb setup - What is EFI Fuel System? Is it needed
SBF headers included?
fuse block how many circuits? Enough to add radio?
What type rear cover on limited slip rear end?
Is carpet included for trunk

What I would like to order. Any advice here? Should I source the rear end locally or maybe a different vendor? I have done a few searches but not finding any with a limited slip. Reading on the forum it appears the brake upgrade is a worth while investment?

34575 - Powder coated chassis
33462 - Installing Ford 289/302/351W Engine
Installing Automatic Transmission: (Default configuration)
34881 - 28 spline driveshaft for 302/351W with T-5, AOD, or Tremec 3550 transmission
16962 - Upgrade: Diamond Stitched Leather Seats
33461 - 4-Link Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular upper and forged lower control arms, and fasteners. Set up for 8.8” Ford solid axle or equivalent
34838 - '33 Grill with Hood and Engine Side Covers
34090 - Hot Rod Spread Rear Exit Exhaust – Polished stainless with 2 oval tips, located under tail lights
33650 - Upgrade: Tilt Steering Column, Chrome Plated
34075 - Electric Power Assist Steering
12453 - Battery Cutoff Switch
16205 - Moser 8.8” 4-Link Solid Axle Rear End Housing, 3.55 Gears w/5-lug Axles, Standard Width
15368 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Black Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
15356 - 12.19” Rear Wilwood Brakes, Black Calipers, Drilled & Slotted

Delete gauges
Delete Steering wheel
Add diamond door panels
Add bicycle fenders if not included???

Thank you in advance
Jeff in Ohio

[edwardb]

Welcome. Factory Five is swamped, as you found out, so don't have a lot of bandwidth for detailed questions unfortunately. This forum is a good source to get you started. I'm about 60-70% through a Truck build, so can respond to some of your questions. Have seen a couple Hot Rod builds, so a bit knowledgeable on that front. Responses:

- At 6'3" you'd fit in a Hot Rod with the right seats. That's critical in my opinion. May want to reconsider buying anything more than the standard seats until you try them out. Important to consider what seats are installed as you look at other builds. Yes, the pedals are adjustable. Side-to-side, although that's not as big an issue with an automatic and no clutch pedal. Some on the downstroke. You would likely not fit well in the Truck. It has quite a bit less room for tall drivers than the Hot Rod.

- The EFI setup includes the pump hangar, pump, and multiple bits and pieces to hook it all up. On my builds (I've done multiple EFI) I buy the parts myself. They're widely available and can configure it exactly the way I want. Plus I think it's a bit cheaper that way.

- Looking at the order form, the price and descriptions suggest headers are not included for your configuration.

- I can't give an exact count for the number of circuits in the Ron Francis harness (standard what they supply) but it does have a radio and radio memory circuit. I'd suggest using it. If you run out of circuits, enough enough to add more.

- I ordered the Moser rear axle for my Truck. It has a chrome stamped cover. I think they're all the same, but can't be 100% positive. They're all limited slip.

- Carpet is included for both the Hot Rod and the Truck. (Not sure why the Truck question since the rest is about the Hot Rod. But included either way.)

- Bicycle fenders are not included. They're optional.

- You may want to look further at deleting the steering wheel. I have the optional chrome tilt wheel on my truck build. Came with the proper steering wheel adapter, steering wheel, and horn button. All Ididit parts and work together. Not sure what you have in mind but would need to be compatible if you don't use the Factory Five supplied parts.

Hopefully those comments help a little. I'm not that far from you in SE Michigan. About 2 hours from Toledo. My Truck build is available to look at in person if that's helpful. Have a finished Coupe in the garage as well. Good luck.

[GoDadGo]

Welcome Aboard Jeff!

I helped my friend Dave (5'8") with his 33-HR build and have a brother (6'4") who simply cannot fit in the car even without the seats installed.

Dave has the standard seats and we both fit just fine because I'm (5'10") but the issue for my brother (Bernard) is leg & foot room. Berni's fitting issue is his leg length (36" Inseam) and size 15 (Gunboats) for feet. I'm four inches shorter in the legs (32" Inseam) with size 9 feet. With that said, if you are long in the torso with shorter legs you should be fine.

If you're a Daddy Long Legs like my brother, you need to see for yourself by sitting in a 33-HR to make sure you will fit.

Good Luck & We Hope You Are Able To Build Your Dream!

[Jeff33Ford]

Welcome. Factory Five is swamped, as you found out, so don't have a lot of bandwidth for detailed questions unfortunately. This forum is a good source to get you started. I'm about 60-70% through a Truck build, so can respond to some of your questions. Have seen a couple Hot Rod builds, so a bit knowledgeable on that front. Responses:

- At 6'3" you'd fit in a Hot Rod with the right seats. That's critical in my opinion. May want to reconsider buying anything more than the standard seats until you try them out. Important to consider what seats are installed as you look at other builds. Yes, the pedals are adjustable. Side-to-side, although that's not as big an issue with an automatic and no clutch pedal. Some on the downstroke. You would likely not fit well in the Truck. It has quite a bit less room for tall drivers than the Hot Rod.

- The EFI setup includes the pump hangar, pump, and multiple bits and pieces to hook it all up. On my builds (I've done multiple EFI) I buy the parts myself. They're widely available and can configure it exactly the way I want. Plus I think it's a bit cheaper that way.

- Looking at the order form, the price and descriptions suggest headers are not included for your configuration.

- I can't give an exact count for the number of circuits in the Ron Francis harness (standard what they supply) but it does have a radio and radio memory circuit. I'd suggest using it. If you run out of circuits, enough enough to add more.

- I ordered the Moser rear axle for my Truck. It has a chrome stamped cover. I think they're all the same, but can't be 100% positive. They're all limited slip.

- Carpet is included for both the Hot Rod and the Truck. (Not sure why the Truck question since the rest is about the Hot Rod. But included either way.)

- Bicycle fenders are not included. They're optional.

- You may want to look further at deleting the steering wheel. I have the optional chrome tilt wheel on my truck build. Came with the proper steering wheel adapter, steering wheel, and horn button. All Ididit parts and work together. Not sure what you have in mind but would need to be compatible if you don't use the Factory Five supplied parts.

Hopefully those comments help a little. I'm not that far from you in SE Michigan. About 2 hours from Toledo. My Truck build is available to look at in person if that's helpful. Have a finished Coupe in the garage as well. Good luck.

Thanks very much. Good info.
Typo for carpet it should be TRUNK.
I will PM you for communication if OK.

[Jeff33Ford]

Welcome Aboard Jeff!

I helped my friend Dave (5'8") with his 33-HR build and have a brother (6'4") who simply cannot fit in the car even without the seats installed.

Dave has the standard seats and we both fit just fine because I'm (5'10") but the issue for my brother (Bernard) is leg & foot room. Berni's fitting issue is his leg length (36" Inseam) and size 15 (Gunboats) for feet. I'm four inches shorter in the legs (32" Inseam) with size 9 feet. With that said, if you are long in the torso with shorter legs you should be fine.

If you're a Daddy Long Legs like my brother, you need to see for yourself by sitting in a 33-HR to make sure you will fit.

Good Luck & We Hope You Are Able To Build Your Dream!

Well I am 34 inseam and size 12 boot. Sooooo...... we will see if I can find someone that has done one.

[RoadRacer]

I'm 6'0, 235, size 12, 34". I always wear converse so have no problem with footroom, but wider shoes would be a pain. Every trans is different width, and many modify the transmission cover (or built their own) to maximize foot room.

My 6'3 320lb friend fit fine in there as passenger, so headroom isn't an issue. I wear helmet and still have room over my head.

I prefer 3-link, but that's a religious question around here

[Jeff33Ford]

I prefer 3-link, but that's a religious question around here

Thanks that actually makes me fill better. From your point of view, why 3 link? Sounds like you run it on the track. Not sure I would or would not but would like the option.

[sread]

Hey Jeff - I'm 6'4" , wear a size 14, and am building a gen 1 hot rod. It is definitely going to be tight but seems like it will be satisfactory although you never really know until you spend some extended seat time in one. Like everyone says, the foot box is really small. If you are going with an automatic that makes it much easier - my car has a TKO and I had to mod the trans tunnel. I drive barefoot about 95 % of the time so time will tell how that is going to work out as heat is always an issue and those Wilwood pedals have some sharp edges...point being, if you have big feet you may have to rethink your foot wear especially for a stick shift car.
Definitely spring for the tilt steering column - your knees will be up around the steering wheel so it will give some leeway in that department. I may go to a smaller diameter wheel also but will have a better idea once I rack up some more miles.
The seats and mounts will require you to get a little creative also. I didn't feel that the standard seats would give me the leg room needed so I have gone to sheet metal bomber seats. They feel pretty comfortable just sitting in the garage , but again, the real test is out on the road for an hour or two. There does seem to be plenty of head room if you mount the seats low enough.
Anyways, it is definitely do able, but it adds a little complexity and expense to the build and depending on what your level of experience is may determine how satisfactory the outcome.

[Jeff33Ford]

Hey Jeff - I'm 6'4" , wear a size 14, and am building a gen 1 hot rod. It is definitely going to be tight but seems like it will be satisfactory although you never really know until you spend some extended seat time in one. Like everyone says, the foot box is really small. If you are going with an automatic that makes it much easier - my car has a TKO and I had to mod the trans tunnel. I drive barefoot about 95 % of the time so time will tell how that is going to work out as heat is always an issue and those Wilwood pedals have some sharp edges...point being, if you have big feet you may have to rethink your foot wear especially for a stick shift car.
Definitely spring for the tilt steering column - your knees will be up around the steering wheel so it will give some leeway in that department. I may go to a smaller diameter wheel also but will have a better idea once I rack up some more miles.
The seats and mounts will require you to get a little creative also. I didn't feel that the standard seats would give me the leg room needed so I have gone to sheet metal bomber seats. They feel pretty comfortable just sitting in the garage , but again, the real test is out on the road for an hour or two. There does seem to be plenty of head room if you mount the seats low enough.
Anyways, it is definitely do able, but it adds a little complexity and expense to the build and depending on what your level of experience is may determine how satisfactory the outcome.

Thanks. Actually that is why I am choosing an automatic is for space in the foot well. Just going to make sure it has a shift kit for fun. I thought the smaller wheel as well. That is why I was not going to order the FFR default steering wheel. At least you guys are making me feel more comfortable ordering this kit!

[RoadRacer]

Thanks that actually makes me fill better. From your point of view, why 3 link? Sounds like you run it on the track. Not sure I would or would not but would like the option.

I don't want to start the debate again, and it doesn't matter much to most people's road cars, but.. I'd put IRS at the top - but $$$. Then 3-link for handling reasons.. FFR's 4 link is at bottom (for me!) because of the inherent binding issues.

[RoadRacer]

At least you guys are making me feel more comfortable ordering this kit!

Oh, it's a great car, don't hesitate to order. Ask as many questions as you want. Build threads are a great resource, most have links in signature.. vvv

[cob427sc]

6'-3", 240lbs, 34 inseam, size 11 shoe and 70 years old. Stock seat GenII. Fit fine (much better than roadster or coupe - I've owned both). I did modify the doors to open slightly wider so I just tuck my fat a** in first when entering. I have the convertible top which requires ducking your head to get in but once inside, sooo comfy! I run an auto to and adjusted the brake pedal for a little more room. Might think about removing the brake pedal and use the clutch pedal for the brake instead to allow more foot room.

[Jeff33Ford]

6'-3", 240lbs, 34 inseam, size 11 shoe and 70 years old. Stock seat GenII. Fit fine (much better than roadster or coupe - I've owned both). I did modify the doors to open slightly wider so I just tuck my fat a** in first when entering. I have the convertible top which requires ducking your head to get in but once inside, sooo comfy! I run an auto to and adjusted the brake pedal for a little more room. Might think about removing the brake pedal and use the clutch pedal for the brake instead to allow more foot room.

Great! Do you have side curtains for you top as well? I would rather have the conv. top as well. Did you source it from FFR or one of the other vendors?

[Jeff33Ford]

Also wanted to hear from anyone that registered there car in Ohio. Want to make sure I can get it done and what it takes.

[progmgr1]

6'-1", 34" inseam and size 13 EE shoes. Running a Gen 2 Coyote and 6R80 which nearly fills the stock trans tunnel. I cut a toe relief by the gas pedal and plan to have a similar relief formed into the outside toe box to act as a dead pedal. The problem is that my shoes are so wide it's hard to avoid hitting one pedal when stepping on the other. Otherwise, I fit in the '33 just fine with the optional FFR "Big and Tall" seat. Second the recommendation on the tilt steering column - makes entry / exit much easier! Also second the IRS recommendation if you can stand the additional $. Ditto the Wilwood brakes.

I bought the crate motor, transmission, ECU, wiring and shifter as a package from Ford Racing (called a Power Module, IIRC). The lesson learned here is that the Gen 2 Coyote is long out of production and probably not available from an authorized Ford Racing dealer at any price. The Gen 3 Coyote Power Module still includes an auto trans, but it's a 10 speed and physically larger than the 6R80 that I'm shoehorning into the Hot Rod. For that reason, you will probably have to use an older (smaller) automatic trans. I suggest that you select your engine / trans / diff (and source) as soon as possible. Lots of other purchases depend on the configuration you choose.

Another thought: some builds are registered on the Hot Rod map - a few in the Toledo area. I vaguely remember that there was a guy in Vermillion, OH who use to be active on the forum. Also several in MI and IN, although maybe not as close to you. http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UT...7446,78.75&z=4

HTH Keith HR #894 (originally from Steubenville, OH)

[Chris @ Forma]

Jeff,

Where in Ohio are you? We are a FFR preferred builder in Columbus. We currently have a 33 in process in our shop. You are welcome to come by and see how you fit. We have a variety of seats you may also wish to try. Please feel free to call any time if you have questions. [email protected] 6145713927

[FF33rod]

Lots of good answers and comments here to help you out Jeff. Just one point, I believe the "big and tall" seats are the standard offering now from FFR. And maybe someone can comment as to whether the trunk carpet is still included in the carpeting option. It was for Gen 1 but I haven't heard anyone comment on Gen 2.

Steve

[33fromSD]

Lots of good answers and comments here to help you out Jeff. Just one point, I believe the "big and tall" seats are the standard offering now from FFR. And maybe someone can comment as to whether the trunk carpet is still included in the carpeting option. It was for Gen 1 but I haven't heard anyone comment on Gen 2.

Steve

I can confirm that my Gen2 delivered in Sept 2020 included the trunk carpet in the carpet option kit.

Jim

20210521_075310.jpg

[Jeff33Ford]

I can confirm that my Gen2 delivered in Sept 2020 included the trunk carpet in the carpet option kit.

Jim

Sweet thanks Jim.

[33fromSD]

Sweet thanks Jim.

Sure thing Jeff, good luck with your decision. keep the questions coming.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Should I source the rear end locally or maybe a different vendor? I have done a few searches but not finding any with a limited slip.

Just to add to this, I've read that all Mustang GT rears have had limited-slip since 1986, so I bought one from a junkyard to get the car going, and even upgrade from there. Depends on your budget.

The key is the tags having an L in the ratio.. mine was labeled 3L27 for 3.27 limited slip.

rear-tags.jpg

[Jeff33Ford]

Just to add to this, I've read that all Mustang GT rears have had limited-slip since 1986, so I bought one from a junkyard to get the car going, and even upgrade from there. Depends on your budget.

The key is the tags having an L in the ratio.. mine was labeled 3L27 for 3.27 limited slip.

Good Info James. I see you are running a TKO. Did you find that the 3.27 was a tall enough gear for a manual? I was wondering if that was enough for an auto or if I should be looking for the 3.5x ish ones. Also I would like to use the bicycle fenders and it appears you have to use the 59" rear for fenders which I think the 86 is that width.

[NAZ]

For you guys with long legs, you don't have to put up with cramped conditions -- there's always a workaround. I needed to move my seat forward to clear my rollcage so I fabricated a footbox blister and moved my pedals forward 5" and down 3". If that's beyond your skill set there are shops that can handle this easy mod. But the time to do it is early in the construction.

Footbox Blister.jpgBlister2.jpg

[Jeff33Ford]

For you guys with long legs, you don't have to put up with cramped conditions -- there's always a workaround. I needed to move my seat forward to clear my rollcage so I fabricated a footbox blister and moved my pedals forward 5" and down 3". If that's beyond your skill set there are shops that can handle this easy mod. But the time to do it is early in the construction.

OK that is a very cool mod! Do you have any pics posted of the pedal relocation?

[NAZ]

Sorry Jeff, nothing specific focused on the brackets or how I relocated the pedal assembly but any good fabricator will be able to fab the blister that replaces the FFR driver side lower section of firewall/footbox and relocate the Wilwood pedal assembly forward a few inches. The hardest part is marking where to cut the hole for the steering column. If you're good with TRIG you can figure out where to mark it (like I did) or you can make cardboard patterns and use a trial and error approach. Many times that's easier.

It's worth the effort. I also fabricated a new doghouse cover and made my footbox a couple inches wider. The photo below may give you some spacial reference to where my pedal assembly is located.

attachment.jpg

[Jeff33Ford]

It's worth the effort. I also fabricated a new doghouse cover and made my footbox a couple inches wider. The photo below may give you some spacial reference to where my pedal assembly is located.

This helps a lot and I think I may use your idea. I like it a lot. I thought about altering the pedal but this seems like a better solution

[NAZ]

Jeff, one thing to keep in mind when installing or altering the braking system -- always make sure that the master cylinder piston has full travel and that the bottom of the reservoir is higher than the inlet to the master cylinder. It's a common mistake many builders make. The brake fluid transfers from the reservoir via gravity not suction and you need full piston travel to ensure you have braking redundancy should a failure of the front or back systems occur. Full travel also helps with bleeding the brakes. Another area that folks seem to have trouble with.

Good luck with your build and have fun.

[RoadRacer]

Good Info James. I see you are running a TKO. Did you find that the 3.27 was a tall enough gear for a manual? I was wondering if that was enough for an auto or if I should be looking for the 3.5x ish ones. Also I would like to use the bicycle fenders and it appears you have to use the 59" rear for fenders which I think the 86 is that width.

The gearing is perfect for me. The TKO works great. Pay attention to the rear tire height too of course - wide variations there. Because I went fenderless I deliberately went for the widest rear (2002) to allow more flexibility for wheels (my style of choice are all hugely offset).

Remember it's just 'glass... easy to cut and shape and widen/narrow

[Jeff33Ford]

Ugg just found out they offer the bicycle fenders in carbon fiber. Not as easy to repair so I really did not want them and they are expensive. Any comments? Maybe get the full fender and just use parts I want.

[FF33rod]

Ugg just found out they offer the bicycle fenders in carbon fiber. Not as easy to repair so I really did not want them and they are expensive. Any comments? Maybe get the full fender and just use parts I want.

Hmmm, I thought the carbon fiber was an option. I would not go with carbon fiber for any of the parts as pretty much everything requires adjustment (as in trimming, shaping, some even adding fiberglass) which will be very difficult to do with CF. Would be surprised if CF was the only option for the bike fenders now.

[Jeff33Ford]

Hmmm, I thought the carbon fiber was an option. I would not go with carbon fiber for any of the parts as pretty much everything requires adjustment (as in trimming, shaping, some even adding fiberglass) which will be very difficult to do with CF. Would be surprised if CF was the only option for the bike fenders now.

Exactly why I do not want them. This is a quote of the email from FFR sales
"we only sell the bike fenders in carbon fiber. When we produced both version, the cost difference was minimal "

[FF33rod]

Exactly why I do not want them. This is a quote of the email from FFR sales
"we only sell the bike fenders in carbon fiber. When we produced both version, the cost difference was minimal "

Perhaps your and my perception of the difficulty is unfounded. Anyone want to chime in on what it's like cutting and shaping the CF front bike fenders?

Steve

[Jeff33Ford]

Perhaps your and my perception of the difficulty is unfounded. Anyone want to chime in on what it's like cutting and shaping the CF front bike fenders?

Steve

To be honest I would not order them anyway. Way to expensive for what they are. I actually found someone that did not use their full fender set and got it for a great deal. My first thought is to just use the rear fenders and make my own front fenders. Lots of ways I have seen people do this just using metal boat fenders. Plenty of time to decide.

[DBski]

If you're still looking to sit and view a car locally I live in the Irish Hills in MI not far from Toledo. Your welcome to come up and take a gander.

[FF33rod]

To be honest I would not order them anyway. Way to expensive for what they are. I actually found someone that did not use their full fender set and got it for a great deal. My first thought is to just use the rear fenders and make my own front fenders. Lots of ways I have seen people do this just using metal boat fenders. Plenty of time to decide.

Just for anyone reading this thread, there is at least one other option for fenders. I believe Dan Ruth makes a very nice set and a number of other parts.
https://www.innovativerodding.com/parts-services-2018/