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Thread: Simplifying the EJ

  1. #41
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    Where is the PCV monitor? I have yet to find it on my '02 WRX motor. Also, I am thinking I can remove one or more of the rubber lines that go back to the fuel tank or canister. The tank only requires one pressurized line forward, and a return, right?

  2. #42
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    I just cut off all the unnecessary aluminum from the altern. bracket. Looks much neater and saves some weight.

  3. #43
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    Good to know - found the link http://www.romraider.com/
    Also found the vacuum port caps - lots of them on ebay.

  4. #44
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Where is the PCV monitor? I have yet to find it on my '02 WRX motor. Also, I am thinking I can remove one or more of the rubber lines that go back to the fuel tank or canister. The tank only requires one pressurized line forward, and a return, right?
    no PCV monitor on the 02 The lines to the charcoal canister can all be removed as well as the solenoid but you will need to suppress codes if you don't want a CEL.
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  5. #45
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    Thanks for all the info. I do have some questions/concerns: according to the assembly manual - the 818 uses a supplied vent on top of the fuel tank that FFR wants attached to the charcoal can. Can this vent simply be attached to the vacuum port (third down from engine fuel lines) allowing the canister to be eliminated? Isn't the right side engine "green" bracket needed to mount the black plastic coolant fill tank?

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Thanks for all the info. I do have some questions/concerns: according to the assembly manual - the 818 uses a supplied vent on top of the fuel tank that FFR wants attached to the charcoal can. Can this vent simply be attached to the vacuum port (third down from engine fuel lines) allowing the canister to be eliminated? Isn't the right side engine "green" bracket needed to mount the black plastic coolant fill tank?
    Do not hook the tank vent to a vauum source unless it is controlled by the ECU through a carbon canister. You will collapse the tank. It is really up to the builder where to mount the coolant tank. You don't need the lower bracket look at the other build threads.

  7. #47
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    I mounted my tank on my WRX on the shock tower using just the two through holes. Lasted 2 years without any issues.
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  8. #48
    Senior Member StatGSR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Thanks for all the info. I do have some questions/concerns: according to the assembly manual - the 818 uses a supplied vent on top of the fuel tank that FFR wants attached to the charcoal can. Can this vent simply be attached to the vacuum port (third down from engine fuel lines) allowing the canister to be eliminated?
    As wallace said above, do not hook that to engine vacuum. the charcoal can exists to capture the vapors that are created in the gas tank and deliver them to the engine (using a solenoid) to be burnt because it is cleaner to burn the vapor than it is to just let it escape. prior to this gas tanks were just vented to atmosphere.

    http://auto.howstuffworks.com/evapor...rol-system.htm
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  9. #49
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    What is the little gizmo just behind the evaporator diaphragm and bolted to the manifold? It has a two wire electr. connector and two vac. hoses.

  10. #50
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    Its all part of the same evap system. I pulled mine all off and plugged the manifold. You'll need to disable the codes in the ecu.
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  11. #51
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    It couldn't be the knock sensor right?

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    It couldn't be the knock sensor right?
    The knock sensor is bolted to the block, on top of the #4 cylinder.

  13. #53
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    Thanks so much for your quick and astute reply.

  14. #54
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    thanks for all of the great info. i have a question, can i do away with the pipe feeding the heater on top of the engine going down to the intake on the bottom of the motor i dont see a use for this am i wrong?

  15. #55
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    Are you talking about the aluminum and steel lines underneath the intake manifold? Loop these together. Plugging these lines causes the head to overheat.
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinn497 View Post
    The question then is, for people who live in states with restrictive emissions laws, how much of this would be legal?
    I am building an R so I could care less about the laws, but this subject has not been discussed at all! Surely there are some ramifications to removing some of the emissions devices in some states. I think that if a car is inspected when the engine is fully warmed up that removing TGVs, etc will not cause it to fail.
    Who's been through the street legal process with a kit?

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Who's been through the street legal process with a kit?
    Every state's different, so you need to see what's required. The registration thread has a link to info on every state.

    I haven't been through it before, but I've done my research. In CA, 500 kit cars per year are allowed to be registered under SB100, which allows them to have emissions requirements set by the apparent model year of the replica body. So, a roadster gets 1965; a hot-rod, 1933 (free pass!). In the case of no resemblance (like the GTM or 818), model year 1960 is assigned. So, the only requirement I'll need to meet is a sealed crankcase and PCV. This is huge for me, since in CA for a typical smog inspection, not only do you have to pass a tailpipe sniff, but a visual inspection as well. Meaning any removed/modified component without a CARB exemption means a fail and you can't register . I'm removing the air-pump and evap system, but will keep the cat in place and add a small charcoal canister.

  18. #58
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    Wow, some incredibly awesome information here.

    I am rebuilding My fiance's wrx motor, and TVG deletes etc are common on standard WRX's.. heck the Japanese motors don't come with them period.

    The EVAP system removal is awesome I have a wrx that will either be becoming an 818 or a rally car, either way, so much needs simplified on that motor, very over complicated.

    awesome thread thanks for taking the time to post this!

  19. #59
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    To do TVG deletes on my 2.5L 2004 turbo engine. Can I just use the intake off my 2.5L 2006 NA engine?

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    To do TVG deletes on my 2.5L 2004 turbo engine. Can I just use the intake off my 2.5L 2006 NA engine?
    No, while there is a possibility that it could physically work, that IM was not intended for that amount of air flow and it will most certainly move/relocate the location of the TB.
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  21. #61
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    Is this it?
    DSC01027.jpg
    Mine is off an NA RS and can, with a little work, flow about as well as a Cosworth.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Is this it?
    DSC01027.jpg
    Mine is off an NA RS and can, with a little work, flow about as well as a Cosworth.
    this is the IM on my 06 NA wagon. The runners look pretty big to me.

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    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 12-10-2013 at 08:47 PM.

  23. #63
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    People often use the 05 NA intake as one of the best flowing manifolds Subaru has made. It gives more low end and has a bigger plenum. People that use it generally switch to a FMIC since the TMIC doesn't line up IIRC. I don't remember if the fuel rail/injector seats are the same.
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  24. #64
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    People often use the 05 NA intake as one of the best flowing manifolds Subaru has made. It gives more low end and has a bigger plenum. People that use it generally switch to a FMIC since the TMIC doesn't line up IIRC. I don't remember if the fuel rail/injector seats are the same.
    Hi Craig,
    The NA intake looks like it would not fit a TMIC in the Impreza. I believe here is more room in this area of the 818.
    Can I use the fuel injector of the NA engine, or are the turbo injectors bigger?
    Bob

  25. #65
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    Use the turbo injectors. The NA injectors are smaller.

    Check out this. Lots of good info and some pics.
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2313431

    Flow Data:
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2229576



    One thing I just noticed in the first thread. The fittings are all 1/8" BSPT not NPT! Probably explains my idles problems as I have 2 spots plugged with NPT plugs.
    Last edited by Mechie3; 12-09-2013 at 03:23 PM.
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  26. #66
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    good thing you have some left over epoxy from the steering rack. a nice tight fit.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  27. #67
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    I want to say as well, that the mods needed to make it fit a turbo engine were more than I was willing to do...

    I'll try to find the nasioc thread that details what is needed...

  28. #68
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Zach is running an NA manifold, not this exact one though. Check his build thread.

    He would probably know.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  29. #69
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    This is the most concise info I could find

  30. #70
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    This is an awesome thread. Thanks for starting it longislandwrx and all you who contributed. Its great for someone new to Subaru.

    I'm well on the way to deleting all the unnecessary items from my 02 donor, but have a question about the fuel system deletes.
    What do we need to retain for the fuel system?
    Obviously the fuel pump, fuel pump relay and controller, and lines to the tank, but what about the following:
    fuel pressure sensor?
    Pressure control solonoid valve?
    Drain valve?
    They are all on my electrical diagram and I'm dieting it now.
    just want to know what I need to keep.

    Also one last question about the water cooling lines. Mechie3 mentioned we should be careful when deleting the lines to the throttle body and other lines.... that is can cause the heads to overheat. What is the best routing to keep if we plug off the throttle body?

    Thanks
    Harley

  31. #71
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    Throttle body can be blocked off with no issue. Irs the large lines that go to the beater core that need to be looped together. None of the valves you mentioned are retained.
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  32. #72
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    In my post #75 on (FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA) I mentioned getting rid of the oil heater and those water lines.

  33. #73
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    David H. just moved this thread out of the "General" section to here "Engine and Transmission." Thanks, man.

  34. #74
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Does anyone have a good source for BSPT aluminum plugs?

    I'm tired of re-tapping.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  35. #75
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    I just cut off all the unnecessary aluminum from the altern. bracket. Looks much neater and saves some weight.
    Have a picture as it sure looks clunky with the PS and AC removed now, looking for a way to clean up that space
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  36. #76
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    the RS bracket I posted earlier works and is strong enough to use as a lift point.
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  37. #77
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    the RS bracket I posted earlier works and is strong enough to use as a lift point.
    I assume it will work on a EJ207? as I used the existing bracket as a lift point to put the engine on the stand
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  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    Does anyone have a good source for BSPT aluminum plugs?
    I've been looking for a source of M28x1.5 and M18x1.5 aluminum plugs to replace some of the steel water jacket and oil galley access plugs on the block. Found a M18x1.5 one out of Australia for $20AUS (~$18.50 USD) for just one. Probably be cheaper just to have them custom CNC'd.

  39. #79
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    I've been looking for a source of M28x1.5 and M18x1.5 aluminum plugs to replace some of the steel water jacket and oil galley access plugs on the block. Found a M18x1.5 one out of Australia for $20AUS (~$18.50 USD) for just one. Probably be cheaper just to have them custom CNC'd.
    yeah, seems like something that you think would be easy to find is scarce around these here parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    I assume it will work on a EJ207? as I used the existing bracket as a lift point to put the engine on the stand
    yes it should work.
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  40. #80
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    Like many have said before- great thread! Thanks for this information.

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