Simplifying the EJ

[dougkirkbride]

TGVs! the tumbler valves on the car are bulky restrictive and heavy. People argue that they help with cold starts but really their main purpose is cold start emissions. Removing them saves a ton of weight, and the accompanying motors/wiring/vent tube really cleans up the top of the motor. Its also good for about 8-15hp depending on who you talk to. This is an easy and pretty much free mod anyone can do at home with a drill and a tap, a few bolts and some grinding equipment. It is well documented.

initially i wasnt going to do this till later but my 06 wrx has the air pump and what a monster it is, not even sure where i would put it, so while engine is out and everything is easy to get to i mis well reomove it and purchase the delete plates. the only issue is my donar is strickly stock and i want to be able to turn the key and have it start when i get there someday. does anyone know if there would be an issue with this. i dont have an ability to tune out any codes (at least not yet) i am only going to run this car in warm weather so i dont car about cold starts. i guess i can always tune that out later but for know i want to just remove and still be able to start it when that day comes. has anyone done this?

also, if anyone knows a good website for the blockoff plates please post.

also, i read about grinding off bollts in order to remove, i dont quite understand which ones they are talking about.
any help is appreciated.
thanks,
doug

[Scargo]

This is a pretty good guide to modifying TGVs, though there may be ten more... If you don't grind off the back of the screws they will likely break off when you attempt to unscrew them, or you can just start by drilling out the screw.
I used a hacksaw to rough cut the partition out of the throat. In addition, I used JB Weld to fill the holes after I cleaned the parts and roughed up the holes with a Dremel burr. I also took my TGVs to the bandsaw and cleaned up the sides.

You do not need block-off plates if you are comfortable tapping a hole or can get someone to do it for you. A slightly larger drill than the current hole size is all that is needed to prep those holes in the heads for a 1/4" pipe tap.
If you have concerns about drilling and tapping an assembled engine, or that resultant chips might hurt the turbine, let me explain my method. You will need tweezers, hemostats or the like. Now stuff a bit of rag down the hole deep enough that the drill bit will not catch it (about an inch). Now open up the hole with a 7/16" drill bit. Tap deep enough that the plug will be flush. I use female, hex drive plugs. I suggest a good quality tap. So many from chain hardware stores are crap. If you do not have a tap wrench you can usually make do with a socket. I like to use a drill so there is less wobble involved in the tapping process. Since this is a tapered tapped hole this is not a huge concern. Use a light grease and you will remove most of the chips when you back out the tap.
Now, clean out the hole with Q-tips, brush or low pressure air and pull out the rag.
Viola! No need for a plate, gasket and bolts.

[dougkirkbride]

thanks for the info and link scargo.

some things look different in this one, maybe its another year model or some other thing or who knows what i think are tgv's might be something else..
i am trying to get rid of this air pump:

image.jpg

i figured these are the tgv's the other is right behind this one and neither one is bolted directly to the motor:
image.jpg


the block-off plates i figured would cover the holes where this pipe would be removed:
image.jpg

it appears that everything could be removed easily then i would just need to cap the holes, is this the tgv system?

[waruaki]

Nope. Read the link below and look at the picture provided. Its a TGV assembly from a 2004-06. You can look at my build for more pictures.

If you decide to do a delete on your TGV assembly the link to the guide that Scargo provided is a good one.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1663677

2004-06 TGV.jpg

[Scargo]

thanks for the info and link scargo.

some things look different in this one, maybe its another year model or some other thing or who knows what i think are tgv's might be something else..
i am trying to get rid of this air pump:...
it appears that everything could be removed easily then i would just need to cap the holes, is this the tgv system?

That is the air pump system. It is independent of the TGVs. TGV is as Waruaki has showed you. Note that if you are retaining the stock ECU, and not doing any retuning, that you need to retain the air pump sensor on the driver's side connection. You can pare it down and lose some of the bulk, but you need that sensor in the loop to not cause a fault/code.

[dougkirkbride]

ok wow..... i am out in left field. thanks for shedding some light.
i guess i should have started with air pump delete. any issues with removing the pump and 2 valves and installing the air pump delete block off valves such as these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171342911257?lpid=82

scargo-- any way you can provide a little more definition on the drivers side sensor?

thanks.

[Scargo]

I know I'm pushy, but those plates are really too pretty for something that is virtually never seen. $55 for them VS $7 for SS plugs?
As to the sensor it is a barometric pressure sensor. It is covered in-depth if you Google it.
You can lose the sensor if you put about a 194K resistor in it's place, between red with yellow stripe wire and the ground wire (black with blue stripe or white). I did this and pared it down and taped it off on the harness.

[Harley818]

just re-read this thread again to make sure i got all the mods sorted out.
Its a great thread for us non-subie guys.
Looks like I'm good to go but this was wayyyy down in the threads. Thought I would bump it up a bit.
This one should be a sticky.

[Hindsight]

Regarding air pump delete, and any other items that may throw a code: My understanding from someone very reputable is that any fault code can be tuned out of the ECU via Access Port or the open-source equivalent. This will prevent a CEL.

[CanadianYank]

I booked marked this thread thanks for the information. I see the thread is over a year old I'm glad it made its way back up to the top...

Frank

[nkw8181]

I booked marked this thread thanks for the information. I see the thread is over a year old I'm glad it made its way back up to the top...

Frank

Me Too Me too!

Just got the air pump stuff off. Not fun since I didn't take much of anything else off but got it!!

[longislandwrx]

This was posted elsewhere iirc, If you don't need the bling and don't want to spent $70

Factory Tribeca block off plates will work, you'll need two and will need to enlarge one of the holes.

Part# 14754AA050

Retail $3.70


see thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2371781

or something in the middle:

http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-21...e-block/Detail

[Rasmus]

This was posted elsewhere iirc, If you don't need the bling and don't want to spent $70

Factory Tribeca block off plates will work, you'll need two and will need to enlarge one of the holes.

Part# 14754AA050

Retail $3.70

Brilliant! Need me two. Thanks LongIsland.

[FlatironsTuning]

We usually keep one or two of those plates on hand if anyone needs them. Here they are on our site:

http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-245...lve-plate.aspx

[Hindsight]

I lucked out and my donor came with the Cosworth blockoff plates. I hear that they are good for an extra 25WHP

[Rasmus]

Only if you apply the sticker on your doors.

[Goldwing]

Nice find! I'll add that to my winter work shopping list!

[Turn In Concepts]

Regarding air pump delete, and any other items that may throw a code: My understanding from someone very reputable is that any fault code can be tuned out of the ECU via Access Port or the open-source equivalent. This will prevent a CEL.

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you do an air pump delete you MUST retain the sensor with the larger connector. It is not enough to just turn off codes. It contains a barometric pressure sensor that must be used for the ECU to properly adjust boost. Leaving it off is a common mistake with amateur shops (we have done 4 tunes in the last two weeks where other shops did not reuse this part and the part costs ~$250). You can cut the black sensor off the top of the metal cylinder and hide it out of the way though.

Tony

[Mechie3]

^^ That's only for 07, correct, not 06?

[Turn In Concepts]

07+ engines.

[Scargo]

This is it, stripped down. Heavy little sucker!
barometer sensor.jpg
Can I remove the heavy metal portion, too? I saw where one was bandsawed through the metal just in front of the plastic.
Another person dismembering one. The post after suggests that you can just cut the plastic where it joins the metal.

[Turn In Concepts]

Yep. , All you need is the plastic bit at the top.

Tony

[Hobby Racer]

^^ That's only for 07, correct, not 06?

This appears to be on 06 models as well. My 06 WRX donor has the sensor in the LH (driver side) valve solenoid. The give away is the larger 6 pin connector on the solenoid valve. The RH side has only two pins.

[C.Plavan]

I don't remember seeing it on my 06 WRX
http://i.imgur.com/pZQD5Et.jpg

[matteo92065]

My 06 WRX motor has the sensor.

[Mechie3]

It has it, I don't believe that it uses it. I deleted the entire thing on my 06 in 2007 and never had issues.

[Rasmus]

Yep. , All you need is the plastic bit at the top.

Looks like this once you cut it off.

[Scargo]

I'm still nervous about this surgery. Once you cut the wanger off it can't be put back on...
Looks like you cut to within a quarter inch of the plastic and then slit the metal. I am reluctant to cut into the plastic because I thought I saw a diaphragm in one picture. It looked very close to the edge of the plastic.
Does the ECU need to read atmospheric pressure? Does it help if it still functions? And what are all the GD wires for in the metal chunk?

Follow up note: I pared mine down to just plastic as others have done. I discussed this with my tuner regarding my STi and it is needed for a reference for the ECU as to what the barometric pressure is. Perhaps for older ECU's this is not the case, but for '07+ STi's, it is needed. I think that it might refine idle or low-speed tuning adjustments, but my tuner wanted it on the car even though I was tuned with Speed Density and to 381 WHP.

[Rasmus]

Here's what it looked like before.


Closer


After I cut it off.


Different Angle. I just kept my coping saw as close to the aluminum lip as possible and it came off clean. Sanded the rough plastic off and it looks fine. Not sure if it works though . Weighs 22 grams, btw.

Apparently, because I'm running a 2006 WRX ECU, I don't need this atmospheric pressure sensor. The 2006 ECU gets the data from something else. I don't know what that is. To be sure, I'm keeping all the parts and will be sure to log atmospheric pressure data when tuning driving up 1000 ft.

[nkw8181]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this is the "purge control solenoid" and can be deleted along with purge valve??

[Scargo]

Correct, unless there might be an emissions standard you must meet for how fuel tank vapors are vented. If you will not be running a vapor canister then you can ditch it and all the related vacuum hoses and plug the tap in the manifold or use it for a vacuum gauge.

[nkw8181]

Ok that sounds good. Anyone have some good docs on what all nipples can be plugged? The manual can be convoluted to figure out.

[Harley818]

bumping for the new guys who are new to subaru.
This was extremely helpful for me.

[Chef818]

Can someone who has simplified their EJ207 VER 7, chime in in what they did?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Can someone who has simplified their EJ207 VER 7, chime in in what they did?

I don't know if the engine matters what you delete.
On my 04 Ej255 out of forester XT.
Delete power steering
Delete air conditioning
Delete belt tensioner
Delete evap system
Delete TGV butterflies
When I added the dry sump system, I deleted the PVC system and the breather pipes.
brake booster vacuum port plugged.

Some delete the water heating to the throttle body. I did not.

Bob

[redfogo]

Can someone who has simplified their EJ207 VER 7, chime in in what they did?

Ej207 v7 owner here you can see everything I deleted in my wiring thread. Hope that helps. All evap,emissions, and a/c deleted. Not much else left to delete on the ej207.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...wiring-harness

[TouchStone]

My engine shop deleted the OEM oil heater/cooler.

[Harley818]

I deleted most of the items listed in this thread...
zerodeletes - TGV deletes
water heat to the throttle body
eliminated emission control stuff (no airpump on my 02)
little green tubes of death...
PS
AC
added two catch cans - one for each circuit
kept the stock fuel distribution, but probably will change in the future to equal length distribution lines.

[Clyde's Keeper]

This thread needs to be a sticky? It would be great if it didn't get lost in the shuffle.

[AZPete]

I'm bringing this valuable thread back up to the top. It should be a sticky for new 818 builders who don't eat & breath Subaru engines.