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Thread: Lucky's 33 Hot Rod build #524

  1. #81
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    build update - I had to replace the clutch master cyl. couldn't get enough travel out of the .75 in. cyl., I replaced with a 1.125 in. it works fine now. also, I decided to replace the original mufflers after hearing all the stories about fiberglass chicken feathers blowing out the pipes; I went with the Flow Master HP2's because of the cool temp technology as they will be right under my seat. (thanks to Glenn Somers for the idea)
    I also trimmed my FBW original Ford gas pedal, I did not modify it like the manual says to, instead I just mounted it against the firewall in it's original shape & it works fine except it was a little long so I trimmed the bottom for more room against the floor.

    Pictures:
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    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  2. #82
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    Nevin
    I wonder what Glenn's up to. I always enjoyed his posts.
    Let us know how the sound is from those mufflers, they should be the new FF mufflers to replace the cotton candy machines.
    Dale

  3. #83
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Since I will be sitting in the car with my leg & thigh about 3 in. from the drive shaft with not too much protection between it and my leg; I decided to install a drive shaft protection loop. I bought the chrome moly tubing from Aircraft Spruce, 1 in. for the loop & 1.25 in for the side supports, had a local guy bend it for me then I welded it together & had it powder coated, then welded it to the frame, I think it is pretty sturdy & gives me peace of mind. I also added some 12 gauge steel floor panels for seat mounting.

    pictures:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  4. #84
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    Nevin
    Nice job; I like the way you made the drop out section for ease of repairs just don't know if it will pass scrutiny with NHRA.

    I built a hoop for mine too but I put it within 6" of the front U-joint like the sanctioning bodies require. Mine's not quite legal either
    because it's 2 overlapping hoops of 270* circles instead of the style the NHRA demands. I still feel a lot better having something
    between my hip and that meat hammer if it ever comes apart. I cut the top off of my FF hoop just like you did but mines not for
    a nifty shifter mount like yours it's just for ease of service and to minimize the tunnel height for a future console.
    Loving the pictures
    DB

  5. #85
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    Very nice! I like that shifter knob! I guess it is getting a little warmer up there in PA. I was there in Feb. Too cold for me, LOL.

  6. #86
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    Nevin n DB,

    My drive shaft is shorter and the u joint is next to my thigh so I made 3 aluminum plates to fit inside the tunnel braces. I should have cut 3/4" off the top of the front brace and pushed it to the passenger side, but that occurred to me too late.
    This would have given me room to stuff the remnants of my previous tranny grenade blanket between the Kirkey seat and the tunnel. Or at least let my hand get down the side of the seat to fetch dropped French fries. I didn't do the hoop because I wasn't willing to give up the room next to the seat. With the hoop slightly offset to the passenger side I could not get the seat and belt on that side to fit...easily. I guess I wasn't motivated enough that day.

  7. #87
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Y'all that have planned ahead and made driveshaft loops or other protection in case of a u-joint failure are smart. I've had two driveshafts explode on me and it's amazing how much damage they can do. Having one let go right next to your legs would be terrifying. The original FFR design is not nearly sturdy enough to contain a driveshaft failure at speed. I have an NHRA compliant loop at the front as required for my Super Pro build and one at mid span for my own piece of mind. Then I am fabricating an 1/8" tunnel section over the drive shaft as a ballistic shield. And finally, I'm using an aluminum shaft that is lighter (less kinetic energy if it explodes) and softer (less chance of penetrating the ballistic cover). Having experienced a couple of driveshaft failures I'm a bit more cautious now.

  8. #88
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments,
    I'm not too worried weather it passes NHRA or others, I won't be racing, just have it for piece of mind.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  9. #89
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Very nice! I like that shifter knob! I guess it is getting a little warmer up there in PA. I was there in Feb. Too cold for me, LOL.
    Thanks Tom, that knob is a Speed Dawg shifter knob, it has a Bull Dog likeness on top.
    The guy who owns the company is local to me, about 5 miles away but it is a world wide company & has lots of different knobs. (speeddawg dot c0m)
    yes, we had some cold days but also some very warm days in Feb. last week I think it was Wed. it was 74 degrees! then on Sunday morning it was 12deg.
    You never know from one day to the next what kind of weather you will be getting.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  10. #90
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    update, trying to get the body in shape & aligned for mounting. The body does not conform to the firewall at the corners, filled in with body filler with long strand fiberglass, about 90% done with that procedure, also did the 1/4 inch cut to the notch at the bottom of the passenger side of the body at the firewall which helped so I didn't have to file the firewall, also there is a bulge just above the corner of the pass side firewall so I am flattening that out so it looks right.(credit goes to Dr. Ruth for these changes). I had a rough time getting the frame & body level & square all at the same time; I think I have it now but haven't bolted everything down yet. also 1st attempt at positioning gauges, I will have 7 including clock.

    Question for those who have squared & aligned their body before mounting; where did you put the mounting bolts, other than the firewall & rear corners which I know about? What size & type of bolts, & how many?

    a few pics:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by H R Lucky; 03-26-2017 at 09:21 AM. Reason: spelling
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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  12. #91
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    I added some large washers in the rear to have more surface area to grab. I also drilled some holes in them and epoxy them to the inside of the body for support. In the front I used rivnuts where I could not get to nuts inside of top access panels. I had my front ones spaced about 3-4 inches apart
    see post 82 in my build thread.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...33-build/page3
    Last edited by wallace18; 03-26-2017 at 04:01 PM.

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  14. #92
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    Nevin
    Those reservoirs look like they will be in the way of the hood aligning pin where it hits the firewall ?
    I like the dash layout that's close to what I have in mind as well with the big 2 there and the rest off to the side.

    Looking back through your struggle with the Coyote vs steering shafts it looks like you should have mounted the unisteer
    on the firewall where the bearing mount is. The trick there is to have a 15* wedge behind it to unbind the first joint. That
    pushes the shaft forward enough that it jogs around the Coyote much like it had to jog around my Hemi. It's really where
    the unisteer belongs and seems to work with any engine and not conflict with any oil pan either.

    Dale
    Hemi33
    Last edited by myjones; 03-26-2017 at 01:34 PM.

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  16. #93
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Dale, thanks, do you know how far the hood aligning pins or holes are from the edge of the firewall? I haven't seen any posted measurements on this; it might bite me, i will just have to figure a way around it then.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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  18. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by H R Lucky View Post
    Dale, thanks, do you know how far the hood aligning pins or holes are from the edge of the firewall? I haven't seen any posted measurements on this; it might bite me, i will just have to figure a way around it then. Nevin
    Really rough number from looking at my hood since I haven't drilled the firewall yet
    3.5" in and 3" down is a ballpark number, hopefully someone will tighten that up for you.
    Dale

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  20. #95
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    I searched out the hardware for the hood and mocked it up with duct tape, as far as I can see the pin hole is 3 1/4 in from the edge of the cowl/firewall & I have 4 1/4 in. to the edge of my reservoirs so I should be good, at least I am telling myself that. Thanks for the heads up Dale.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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  22. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by H R Lucky View Post
    I searched out the hardware for the hood and mocked it up with duct tape, as far as I can see the pin hole is 3 1/4 in from the edge of the cowl/firewall & I have 4 1/4 in. to the edge of my reservoirs so I should be good, at least I am telling myself that. Thanks for the heads up Dale.
    Nevin
    It's a real challenge to get them just right when they mount out there because of the frame tube inside limiting how far inboard they can be mounted and trying to keep them as high as possible to help get air out of the system. You have the further challenge of a third reservoir adding to that. The Kugels I used have a different cap that is now at the machine shop getting a bigger chamfer cut on the lids so it won't rub the paint off the bottom of the hood rib. It's that close to the hood and frame both.

    This may be one of the changes I suggest to Jim S. for the Gen 2 33 chassis. We have already talked about that area becoming a bent tube VS welded sections we have now.

    I'm very much against cutting the big hole in the cowl and mounting them inside because of all the issues with water getting in under the dash. There have been a couple cars that had the fusebox get soaked because of that access plate design.
    Dale
    Better mouse traps please

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  24. #97
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Trying to get most of the wiring out of the way, I had headlights,(hi-lo beam) tailights, brake lights, park lights, running lights, but no turn signals or hazzard lights; also the horn didn't work either. After trouble shooting & scratching my head for about a week, I was thinking there was something wrong in the I-didit column, I called FFR and Dan suggested that I put in the original flashers instesd of the LED flashers, while I was removing them I read some fine print on the flasher; it said 'input line X should be connected to a fused circuit' right then I had a brain awakening as I knew from trouble shooting that the other wire to the flasher was coming from the fuse box, so I switched the wires in the connector & lo & behold the turn signals started working! It was the same problem with the Hazzards, switched the wires and the 4 ways worked now also! The last problem was the horn which I found out from one of the forum members (erlihemi) that it was missing the little black plastic barrel connector with the spring loaded ground wire for the horn. I was able to get one from a vendor at a car show this weekend & that fixed the horn. Getting these problems out of the way is a load off my plate, So, next will be to install & connect the gauges.
    Last edited by H R Lucky; 04-26-2017 at 09:19 PM. Reason: spelling
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  25. #98
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Finally got my gauges hooked up & functioning, still need to tidy up the wiring.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  26. #99
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    Making good progress for sure!

  27. #100
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Build Update: Life keeps throwing curves at you whether you are ready or not, I was off the build for a couple months for my wife's surgery, she's doing better now.
    Installed the speed dial modification from Ford Tech, I didn't have to buy the speed dial black box as my transmission (MT-82) has the OSS signal coming from the output shaft.
    It was very tedius to get those pins crimped and set into the PCM connector.
    Installed the E-brake cable, had to add some length to the E-brake leverage bars as the brake cable clevis assy. was hitting the frame bracket that holds the E-brake assy.

    pictures attached:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  28. #101
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    Hi Nevin. Superb build, pictures and thread mate, you have helped me a great deal. Thank you. Im doing the same build as you only using IRS instead of a solid rear. Just wondering how you mated the clutch line to the MT82. Mine has this weird platic pipe connection. And then how do you bleed it? I ended up buying an MGW Short conversion shifter, a late birthday present. I was going to modify the original as well but my local Ford guy said throw it in the bin, its more trouble than it's worth. Interesting what you did with drive shaft. I want to try and leave as much stock Mustang parts on there as I can. So I am leaving the yokes unchanged and modifying the stock drive shaft. I was thinking about the drive shaft protection too, how to protect myself from an angry broken drive shaft at 7000rpm. I'm going to use your idea if that ok.

    Thanks in advance.

  29. #102
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Thanks for the good comments.
    Are you asking about the clutch master cyl. to the hydraulic throw out bearing connection?
    I bought a McLeod flex line with a connector on the end to fit a 2011 Mustang plus an AN4 inverted flair adapter.
    To bleed the clutch line, get your left leg in shape, set in the drivers position and push & release the clutch a bunch of times, approx 75 to 100, this will bleed the line.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  30. #103
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    Many thanks for the reply.

    Yes that's what I am trying to figure out. How to connect to Fords weird connector. Is it this https://www.lethalperformance.com/mc...e-upgrade.html

    Also which clutch master cylinder did you use to go with the FF pedal box. If you have a part number or link of the Willwood cylinder that would be really appreciated.

    Mick

  31. #104
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Mick,
    I originally used a .75 in. master cyl from wilwood but it didn have enough travel, replaced that one with a 1.125 in. from wilwood, p/n -260-10376 and it worked fine.
    the link you provided is the corrrect part number of the hydraulic line. Summit has them....McLeod Racing 139252 - McLeod Hydraulic Clutch Lines
    it has the connector to fit the MT-82 connection to the hydraulic throw out bearing.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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  33. #105
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    Thanks Nevin,

    Dang, I already ordered the 0.75" one based on a thread in the S550 Mustang owners, the Mustang 0.75" CMC must have more travel than the Wilwood. No worries they will take it back and swap it. Does the 1.125 take much more effort to push the clutch pedal in? I took my Mustang clutch line to a friend at a hydraulic shop, he used the end to make me up a new braided line. Looks pretty good too. Thanks for your help mate.

  34. #106
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    The original .75 master cyl. would work sometimes but sometimes while setting still, it wouldn't go into gear with the engine running so that's why I swapped it out.
    It does take a little more leg power to depress the clutch but it works everytime.
    The Mustang pedal assy probably has a different linkage ratio to make it work with the .75 cyl. but the wilwood pedal assy won't quite cut it with that size.
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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  36. #107
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Mick,
    here's a pic of the wilwod 1.125 in. master cyl for the clutch, forgot to tell you the original flex line with the connector wasn't long enough, had to get a 16 in. extension to reach the master cyl. the way i had the line routed.

    pics:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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  38. #108
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    Thanks Nevin,

    I returned the 0.75" and ordered the 1.125". Thank you for the pictures too. It really helps when someone has been there done that before. I am getting a single piece line made from the Mustang bits.

    Mick

  39. #109
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Mick,
    I see you are from Adelaide, I spent 5 weeks at the University of New South Wales back in 1974, wish I could have spent more time; very different from Pennsylvania.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  40. #110
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    Australia is a lovely place but we have no water. If you ever come back you are welcome at my house mate. Bring your own water.

  41. #111
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Back to working on the Hot Rod again, my transmission is so tall, the tunnel isn't even close to covering it so i had to slice it front to back and add about 4 inches to the rear of the tunnel; also had to cut a chunk out of the left front part of the hump for the Drive By Wire pedal to fit, anyway many mods to the tunnel, then had to make a new aluminum rear portion covering the drive shaft because of the height. I made it out of .090 in. aluminum, had a difficult time bending & shaping it but I finally 'Got-er-Done'.

    pictures:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by H R Lucky; 05-17-2019 at 08:38 PM.
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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  43. #112
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Radiator Expansion Tank

    I couldn't get the radiator expansion tank to mount in the preferred location behind the radiator, it was hitting my suspension arms. So I made a couple of brackets and mounted it on the front of the engine, I think it will be ok there. I just need to polish up the brackets & it should be good to go.

    pictures:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  44. #113
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    looks good. Where did you put the PCM?

  45. #114
    Senior Member Tampa33Build's Avatar
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    I had the same issue with the expansion tank hitting the suspension arms. Mounted it behind radiator also.
    Overflow1.jpg

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  47. #115
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sperger72 View Post
    looks good. Where did you put the PCM?
    Right under the front of the oil pan, with bracket supplied by FFR.
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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