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Thread: Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Wow, don't know how I missed this thread all these weeks but will be watching it now. A couple of thoughts for you.
    I like McMaster-Carr a lot better than Grainger.McMaster has a TON of info on almost everything they sell to help make choices,the ship incredibly quickly for little money.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#
    When i was researching color about 4 years ago I came across a list from one of the Shelby ads back in the day. Silver was on it so that is what I went with.
    THe MkIV steering column is a pain in the butt. Good looking but. The old ones had several joints in them that this one doesn't. The shaft gets captured between the bearing at the firewall and the rack and the only rotational adjustment available is at the splines on the rack. The wheel goes on only two ways 180 degrees from each other. So, before you tighten the rack and the bearing,1-stick the wheel on the shaft,2-center the rack by turning all the way in both directions, making marks and counting back to it's center, 3- put the shaft on the rack,4-tighten the rack mounts and bearing mounts. It may be a little easier w/ a manual rack but we learned the hard way on Bills car that the rack just barely will move enough w/ the bolts out and the bearing loose to get the shaft on to the splines.
    Torque- any time you have any doubts look at this generic chart for additional reference
    http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html
    Most of the FFR bolts are grade 5 and a few grade 8
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  2. #42
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Thanks for the suggestions. I will check out McCarr; the only real reason I have used Grainger so far is they have stores in my area. I have also found them pricey on tools for example.

    I will use your method to check everything before finally bolting down. I did center the rack by measurements but is will do as you suggested to check it.

    Did you do anything to dimple out the landing point for the set screws. Right now all that is holding everything in place is the "tightness" of the two set screws on the shaft.

    I am tackling the brake lines next. Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  3. #43
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Brake Lines... Me Thinks It Is More Art and Magic!

    Bending brake lines was a totally new and somewhat frustrating experience. I spent most of the day just getting the front crossover mocked up.

    I used coat hanger wire to mockup the path and make templates for the real thing. I probably made it more implicated than necessary but my goal was to keep it out of the way of the battery box that will go on the x frame. Here is a photo of the final version after I painted it in semi gloss black:

    image.jpg image.jpg

    Here is a shot of the fitting on the DS brake (before painting). I could not get these bent without scratching the coating.

    image.jpg

    I also put the steering wheel on the car and to make sure I had the steering rack aligned which it was. Putting the steering wheel on, even if temporarily, makes you feel like your making real progress.

    The weekend work includes getting the brake lines from the MCs to the front and rear and getting the differential mounted.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 04-26-2013 at 10:43 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
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  4. #44
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Thanksgiving Came Early in Nokesville... The Pumpkin is In!

    After a long battle with the mighty pumpkin, the differential was installed. It kicked my butt most of the afternoon but in the end I won. I will have to do some repainting of where I scrapped off some paint by mistake or deliberately. This is as far as I can go on the rear end until my parts arrive for the control arms.

    image.jpg image.jpg

    The connections from the rear brake MC down through the interior of the DS foot box are completed down to the DS 4 in rail and about a third of the way back.

    image.jpg image.jpg

    The front brake lines from the MCs to the brakes are complete. I ended up cutting and flaring only one connection; It looks good but will find out if it holds when I get the system completed and bled.

    image.jpg

    The new Wilwood hat arrives on the 2nd so I should be able to complete the DS front brake.

    Added Lessons Learned
    1. The fit of the differential is very tight as you move it up through the IRS cage. Between my addition of a couple of layers of paint on the differential and powder coating on the frame it was too tight a fit and I had to trim a little off to get it to fit;
    2. Make sure to remove the plastic plugs in the differential axle connections; and,
    3. Two persons can do it but three would be better.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  5. #45
    Senior Member bill3422's Avatar
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    Very nice Carl. Your brake line look very well done. I never though to bring the brake line down inside the footbox. My only concern would be the heat from the header. That leading edge is almost touching my headers.


    Also if you use and type of sound or thermal insulator in the footboxes that line will be on the backside of the insulation trapping even more heat there.
    Bill3422

    MK4 - 302/347 Stroker - AFR Heads - 400 Hp

  6. #46
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    Monday: With respect to the build I worked on the front brakes today and created the first "wall of shame" part. I am sure this will not be the last but it sure was an expensive first.

    Attachment 16738 Attachment 16739

    Here is the sad tale. I assembled the Wilwood front rotor to the hat. The instruction calls for torquing the screws to 155 in-lb. I misread the setting on the torque wrench and it was set for 1550 or 10 times higher than the max torque allowed. I broke out 2 of the screws before I realized my mistake.

    I compounded that error in trying to ease out the remainder of the two bolts when I destroyed a good part of the original threads on the hat. After I searched the forums and Internet I attempted to execute the procedures but had difficulty keeping the hand held drill perfectly perpendicular. I quit for the night in frustration of my lack of skills in getting the broken bolts out.

    Tuesday: After attempting some rookie repairs with over sized screws, I decided to be more proper and conservative and order a new hat and bolts. These mistakes cost about $261 in new parts plus shipping and 5-6 days delay in finishing the front brakes. I did get a chance to practice safety wiring!

    Lessons Learned:
    1. Use the correct range torque wrench;
    2. Check the setting on the torque wrench numerous times and under sufficient light to really read the settings (specially true on the digital readings);
    3. Use a drill press with a means to hold the working piece vice hand held drill to prepare the broken bolt for removal; and,
    4. Do not work tired!

    Since I was essentially stopped on the front brakes I assembled and prepared the parts to mount the IRS components finding all but the bolts and bushings for the front end of the differential. I had planned on ordering the solid bushings from Fortes anyway.

    I also gathered all the parts to assemble and mount the Wilwood pedal box. Since purchasing the kit, I have decided to install a hydraulic clutch so I am researching the addition of the third master cylinder to the pedal box but it looks like it will be easier than using the cable system (and all the mods and issues associated with the quadrant).

    I have become a devotee to the methodology of mocking up first to make sure all works before doing the final assembly.

    Carl "Clutzy" Williams

    PS. I will eventually make a nice Wilwood clock for the shop from the hat .
    Carl - Congratulations on your progress. I highlighted your #4 lesson above because my wife and I have a saying around our house... "nothing good happens in the garage after 9 pm." I know lots of guys here burn the midnight oil on their cars, but I recognized a long time ago on other car restorations that I have to knock off at 9:00 and head inside.

    The Wilwood clock is a great idea and shows that you have a great attitude! Keep at it man, and let us know whenever we can help.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  7. #47
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bill3422 View Post
    Very nice Carl. Your brake line look very well done. I never though to bring the brake line down inside the footbox. My only concern would be the heat from the header. That leading edge is almost touching my headers.


    Also if you use and type of sound or thermal insulator in the footboxes that line will be on the backside of the insulation trapping even more heat there.
    I had seen this routing on the forums and also in Brian Smith's book. I am considering using the LizardSkin products for noise and heat insulation on the inside of the cockpit. That may be a way around the very real concern about heat on the line because I can get the liquid insulation up between the vertical square tube and the brake line. If I need to I can also drill out the two rivets holding the line behind the accelerator cable and then reinstall after putting in the insulation material.

    My engine should be ready in about 3 weeks so I will soon know how close all is going to fit.

    Thanks for the heads up!

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  8. #48
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    The front Wilwood hat arrived so today I can complete the DS front brake system (Remember I destroyed the first one).

    Taking inspiration from Fast4u, I ordered he components to install an original style reservoir system for the brakes and hydraulic clutch. I will have to 1/2 pint "cans" for the brake reservoirs and a 1/4 pint for the hydraulic cylinders. These will be mounted in the same location of the originals, the DS wheel well area of the engine compartment. Here are some photos showing the three can setup.

    image.jpg image.jpg

    For those with similar set ups, please post the approximate distance from the hood edge for the installation and the routing of the supply lines to the MCs.

    Forte has completed the IRS control arm mods and they are in route.

    Lots of cool work coming up.

    Carl.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  9. #49
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    IRS Lower Control Arm Question

    This is a shot of the front connection to the frame. I put in three shims in the forward end but none in back of the connection. The rear connection is completely "shimmed up".

    The manual states to not torque until alignment but is unclear about shims to the back side of the front connection.

    Since I have FORTE'S adjustable arms should I go ahead and install shims now since adjustments at alignment are made differently?

    image.jpg

    Confused Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  10. #50
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Installing the IRS and other Stuff

    The control arms arrived from Forte today and I immediately prepared them for assembly on the rear end. These are nicely made and will make alignment much easier in the future. I scuffed up the aluminum fittings, applied POR15, and then sprayed them with semi gloss black.

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

    I mounted the PS lower Control Arm installing 3 shims on the forward end of the front arm to frame attachment. The rear mount took 3 in forward and 4 to the rear. Installation was aided by using a magnet to assist in holding the shims in place while installing the bolts.

    Having violated the do not work tired rule, I screwed up the first couple of threads on one of the UCA which I will have to fix on Saturday with an appropriately sized thread chaser or tap (3/4 in 16 pitch bolt size).

    image.jpg

    I also received parts for the brake and clutch master cylinder reservoirs and prepared them for assembly. I painted the cans with POR15 and semigloss black.

    image.jpg

    Having received only 1 bracket from Moss, I prepared 2 more from spare sheet metal saving about $35 in cost.

    I realized, after receiving the parts, that the reason the larger 1/2 pint can is also used for the hydraulic clutch is because only one size top is available from Cobra Restorers (the one that fits the larger cans).
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
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  11. #51
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Saturday's Work

    I continued to work on the reservoirs for the brake and clutch hydraulics after going on a parts and tool run. I needed a 3/4-16 inch tap to fix the cross threaded upper control arm as well as miscellaneous parts for the reservoirs. I decided to head to the local pawn shop to see if I could find a deal on a large tap and die set. I found a full large set for only $40 as compared to a new one online for over $250. The cost driver was the need for the large sized tap which was hard to find. I also picked up a sanding station for $100.00 brand new still in the box.

    image.jpg

    I had to open up the control arm mounting points for the spindle to get them in place. I then discovered that the bolts I needed are missing. I found them on Tasca's site and put them on order.

    Less work on the car today because I finally had to attack the grass cutting and other non build chores.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
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    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  12. #52
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Sunday Update IRS awaiting Parts and Brake Reservoirs

    My "paint Booth":

    image.jpg

    The results:

    image.jpg

    From the other forum on originality I understand the decals were not used but I like'em and will use them. I saved some dollars recreating the brackets using the purchased one as a model (the Moss version cost $16.95 plus shipping).

    I completed the IRS as much as I could while awaiting the nuts and bolts to attach the spindle to the control arms. Shocks are mounted (all the spacers fit perfectly as sent by FFR.

    First I had to expand some of the frame mounts to fit. Here is the UCA on the DS.

    image.jpg

    Here is the PS side with all installed except the spindle and the CV axles.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg
    The T Tag is to remind me to torque to final specifications.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  13. #53
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Carl - I'm using a donor pedal set-up and a '94 SVT Cobra master cylinder, not the Wilwood, because mine is a basic kit. I did, however, use the remote reservoir cans for a more original look. To facilitate this, I used braided hoses and adapter nipples to connect the cans to the m/c. I made a flat bracket to hang the cans from the 3/4" top tube on the driver's side. The location and height was really dictated by the need to keep the half-way point of the cans (minimum fluid level) higher than the highest point of the hoses as they arc toward the m/c.

    Since the body sits on the top of that tube, you can get an idea of the relation to the top of the cans to the hood opening in these pics.



    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  14. #54
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Thanks for the very good information. I will be using a hydraulic clutch so will have three sitting side by side.

    How far horizontally (I guess I mean toward the PS) from the 3/4 top tube did you mount the cans? From the photos it appears they are pretty much flush. My front brake line runs under that tube but I should have room to install the bracket brace shown in your photo.

    I got the idea from your original post on the other forum.

    Thanks, Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  15. #55
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    As you can see in the second photo, the bracket hangs down flush with the inside of the 3/4" tube (note the 90* angle bracket underneath the tube and also attached to the flat bracket for additional support). The band clamps that hold the cans are not spaced out or anything, so the cans are only 3/4" or so from the flat bracket. When the body is on the car, the tops of the cans are readily accessible and the openings are not obscured by the body at all.

    I may have a pic of the cans with the body on... I'll keep looking.

    Here's the pic... gives a decent idea of how the cans clear the hood opening. Note that I raised them a bit to clear the mechanical clutch cable, so they're a bit higher than in the above photos. To facilitate this, I had to add some additional support behind the cans in the form of some rubber bumpers. Those keep the cans from vibrating or wiggling as they keep a small amount of outward pressure on them from the back side.

    Last edited by Gumball; 05-06-2013 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Edited to add picture
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  16. #56
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Thanks. Now I am trying too see if I am high enough above the Wilwood MC which are located on top of the pedal box.

    image.jpg

    I assume that I need to have the operating level higher than the MCs and the lines going to MC. Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 05-06-2013 at 05:42 PM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  17. #57
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    Chris,

    Thanks. Now I am trying too see if I am high enough above the Wilwood MC which are located on top of the pedal box.

    image.jpg

    I assume that I need to have the operating level higher than the MCs and the lines going to MC. Carl
    I would think so... or it could cause problems. But, I'll defer to others who have used the Wilwood system.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  18. #58
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Did you custom make your hose? I cannot find braided hose with 90 deg on bth ends. I can make it work if I can get 90 deg on both ends and a fairly flat run from the cans to the MCs. Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
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  19. #59
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    Chris,

    Did you custom make your hose? I cannot find braided hose with 90 deg on bth ends. I can make it work if I can get 90 deg on both ends and a fairly flat run from the cans to the MCs. Carl
    I bought mine from Pegasus Auto Racing in New Berlin, WI. They're a great source of unique and hard-to-find parts.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  20. #60
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Chris, thanks. I will check them out. I have measured it out and I think I can make it work if I use 90 degree elbows at each end. Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
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    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  21. #61
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Nearing the End ... On the Rear End

    FFR superb customer service came though again. I had misplaced the bolts and nuts to mount the spindles so I had to order new ones from FFR. They got them to me in two days allowing me to jump on the completion of the IRS.

    Overall I found the IRS installation to be fairly straight forward but only after considerable reliance on the manual, How to Build a Cobra Kit Car by D. Brian Smith, as well as photos on the forums.

    Lessons Learned

    1. By far the hardest and most physically demanding step was getting the differential up through the IRS cage and twisted into place. To say the least it is a VERY tight fit. Complicating matters is the weight of the thing makes moving it very challenging.
      • When the manual warns to point the front of the different up with the CV connections aligned longitudinally to the car; they mean it. I would add that it must be raised absolutely vertically straight up;
      • Make sure the diff is well supported once in the cage to allow re alignment along the final installation position;
      • Make sure you check the fit of the bolts before installing the diff particularly the ones on the rear mounts. One of these is the first thing installed and you do not want to be messing with it with the diff dangling there; and,
      • Two can install it but three would be better and safer.
    2. Protect the frame members with towels or tape to prevent scratching the powder coat;
    3. Installing the shims on the control arm mounts to the frame can be tedious. I used a magnet to hold them in place;
    4. I protected all the metal components which were not painted with SharkHide;
    5. Test fit the connections to the frame and spindles to the control arms. I had to expand several mounts to get the shims and attachments to fit;


    Here are some photos:
    image.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by carlewms; 05-11-2013 at 07:23 AM.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  22. #62
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Questions on Connecting the FFR Supplied Wilwood IRS Brakes

    I am mocking up the IRS brakes and have a few questions ... Help!

    1. Where is the best spot to land the end of the flexible hose on the frame?

    2. I did not buy the FFR emergency brake with my kit. What are my options?

    Pictures if you have them would be great!

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
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    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  23. #63
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlewms View Post
    I am mocking up the IRS brakes and have a few questions ... Help!

    1. Where is the best spot to land the end of the flexible hose on the frame?

    2. I did not buy the FFR emergency brake with my kit. What are my options?

    Pictures if you have them would be great!

    Carl
    Can't be much help with IRS brakes, but for the e-brake, several options and (surprise) lots of opinions. Choices include:

    1. Factory Five e-brake handle in the factory location. Their assembly is a custom piece and probably works OK. But some have suggested there are better options. I personally don't have any experience.

    2. Mustang handle in the factory location. There are lots of choices used and new. That's what I've used on both of my builds, and works fine. Some don't like the reach. I found a NOS 87-93 handle on eBay for my Mk4. Works great.

    3. Lokar handle on top of the transmission tunnel. Many have done this, although some fabrication required.

    Lots of threads to search on the other forum.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  24. #64
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Sleepless in Nokesville - Reservoir Update

    I woke up and just could not get back to sleep so I headed to the garage for some entertainment ... Continuing the brake reservoir mock up.

    After determining that the threaded holes on the top of the Wilwood box were 1/4 20 size, I then mounted two of the the FFR supplied tube clips on the same location. These will support the lines for the two brake cylinders.

    Top View:

    image.jpg

    Side View (the second tube clip is not shown on the left mounting point but will be on the final):

    image.jpg

    I used 3/4 in bolts with a lock washer to secure everything.

    With the goal of keeping the area above the pedal box as neat as possible as well as accessible for repairs or replacement in the future, I used hex head bolts which can easily be extracted once the body is on and the only access will be through the panel in the engine compartment.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
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    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  25. #65
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    My Rear End is Done...that is the one on the Car!

    Over the weekend I finished the details on the IRS and torqued all the IRS components on the car. So far, as others have noted, this has been the most challenging part of the project.

    I tackled the Wilwood brake installation and continued working the reservoirs. i had to fit and modify the brakes so they fit under the 17in 10.5 in wide Halibrand wheels. The brakes were interfering at two points:

    1. The emergency brake actuating arm

    image.jpg

    Fix: Grind of about 1/4 inch off the top of the actuating arm

    2. The top of the caliper.

    image.jpg

    Fix: Remove one shim from studs supporting the caliper while still keeping the pads level with the disk.

    Getting there was a lot of trail and error in getting the brakes fitted with the wheel going on and off at least 4 times to make sure the interference was gone. There would probably not been any problems if I had selected,the narrower wheels.

    I also continued the making of the brake and clutch reservoirs support. Drilling the holes with a drill press made the whole process a lot easier to do accurately. Painting with high gloss black was challenging; every blemish shows so I needed several sandings to get the finish I found acceptable (barely). I finally put semi gloss on the side not visible.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    I mounted the "L" shaped bracket so I could more easily align and mount the support plate.

    Gordon says the engine is almost completed and should ship very soon.

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 05-15-2013 at 06:54 AM.
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  26. #66
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Edward,

    Thanks for the response on the e brake answers. I am going for the original look so option 2 with a period look handle is in my future.

    Carl
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  27. #67
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    Brakes Completed... Well Almost Completed

    Today I completed the lines from the reservoirs to the master cylinders and that is about it

    It took about 7 tries to get the AN fittings on the 3AN PTFE braided line but I finally got 6 good connections.... Or at least I thought I did. As I was connecting one of the reservoir cans one connection came loose. I decided to increase the length of the misbehaving connection. Here are the results:

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    I still need to mount the lines to the clutch master cylinder when it arrives from Levy's with the engine next month.

    After painting the last line last night, I mounted it on the drivers side to mock up the locations for the brackets.

    image.jpg

    I may have make up another set since the locations currently has weld interferences on the backside of the frame.
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  28. #68
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    Hydraulic Brakes Completed

    The brakes are installed with the exception of the emergency brake which will be a Lokar version.

    I finished the rear brakes, finalized riveting the run from the foot box to the DS rear. Two L shaped brackets were made to mount the brake transitions from the hard tube to the Wilwood flexible lines provided with the brakes. I used 1/8 in steel plate attached to the frame with two 10-24 1/2 in screws. This required drilling and tapping the holes to accept the screws since I was attaching to the quad shock location on the frame which was fairly thick (about 5/8th of an inch) as well as had interference from the rear x frame tubing. I made sure not to violate the integrity of the welds which connect the x tube to the quad shock mounting point.

    image.jpg image.jpg

    If I were to do this again I would run the line across the rear x member and through one of the mounting holes for the quad shock.

    Here are photos of the full installation:

    image.jpg image.jpg

    The hydraulic part of the brake system is now complete, ready for filling and bleeding.

    When I torqued the spindle nuts I used a clamp to activate the emergency brake so the hub was locked for torquing.

    image.jpg


    If using the Wilwood brakes supplied by FFR, use a woodworker's clamp to activate the e brake. Make sure to use one with rubber pads on the clamps to protect the paint and maintain grip on the mechanism.
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  29. #69
    Senior Member 2FAST4U's Avatar
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    Very nicely done! If you want to continue with the originality theme, install the Lucas wiring components on the firewall. No need to make them functional. Just for the correct period look. I placed a picture of the layout with part numbers on the other forum in the Originality sub-section

  30. #70
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    I checked out the photo on the other forum and saved it for future reference. Since I would make them non functional I am going to arp tart looking for the parts.
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  31. #71
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    Overdue Build Update

    After some disruptions for a cruise, Vegas and a new job... And a trip to Ohio for LCS, I am back in the build mode.

    One item I am considering is raising the steering wheel to add a little room under the wheel. The FFR steering wheel is parallel with the face of the dash as designed. I have enough room between the shaft and the MC on the Wilwood pedal box to get about .75 inches of additional room by raising the pillow block slightly.

    This mod will put the top of the wheel closer to the body at the top.

    See the photo below.


    image.jpg

    Questions:

    1. Is this doable?
    2. Can some one provide the measurement between the top of the wheel and the body?

    Thanks, Carl
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  32. #72
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Carl,

    On my Mk3, I raised mine by using a 1/2" aluminum block. Make sure you use a solid piece, though, just to ensure uniform support - not separate spacers or worse, a pile of washers.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  33. #73
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Thanks. I am expanding the opening for the RT turn signal and will have to modify that bracket slightly.

    Carl
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  34. #74
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    Proposed Solution for Parking Brake

    Folks,

    In keeping with my plans to maintain the original car look and minimizes the modifications from the FFR design, I settled on using the FFR handle assembly. The problem with that assembly is that it requires routing the cables under the 4 in crossmember which, in my view is not a good thing to do because it exposes the cables too much and, without sheathing, also causes more wear on the member and the cables.

    After mocking up the handle assembly, I realized that the easiest fix would be to extend the Mount to Rachet bracket to allow the routing to come over the crossmember. Here is a photo showing the original mount over the redesigned mount.

    image.jpg

    Since I had already purchased cables for the Locke universal, I have a termination point for the cables which will be mounted to provide a smooth transition for the cables to the handle assembly.

    Carl
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  35. #75
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Parking Brake Finished ... Finally

    This morning I got up determined to produce the new pieces for the parking brake. Last night I marked the holes using my originals and the outline using my template.

    Here is the process I used to produce the parts:

    Mark and drill the holes first before cutting away any of the material to create the shape. This makes it easier to hold the pieces and accurately drill the holes.

    Drill both pieces at the same time to make sure the are mirror images. Bolt the two pieces together to drill both at the same time and use a drill vice to keep everything steady;

    image.jpg

    I did not have a band saw so I used an angle grinder with cutoff wheel to cut the pieces out to a rough shape;
    I used a stationary grinding wheel and sander to shape and cleanup put the parts to final form;
    After treating the parts with SharkHide, I assembled my new and improved parking brake assembly. Here is the result.

    image.jpg

    This is the step where I abandoned the remaining fittings from the FFR brake assembly. I used the Lokar connection kit to join up the FFR assembly to the Lokar cables.

    image.jpg

    The holes in the lower longer arm of the new Handle to Rachet mount were sized to accept the pin from the Lokar kit. I drilled three holes to give me options in the placement of the Lokar connector.

    I shortened the cables to mock up the connection to the hand brake assembly. I was concernd ther would be some interference with the bolt holding the rear end of the hand brake assembly if the handle is in the full up position. As it turns out the handle never gets close to the full up position so it is not an issue.

    I installed the cable sheave termination assembly on the top of the 4 in crossmember using rivnuts to to hold the assembly on to the member. This keeps everything above the crossmember and in a fairly smooth transition from the vertically oriented to the horizontally orientation at the bottom of the hand brake assembly.

    This is the view from the driver's side. I will trim off the excessive cable once the final installation is completed (after installing all the sheet metal).

    image.jpg

    The cable covers are run through the installed FFR tab installed on the passenger side of the tunnel. Once I get up under the car I will move the grommets in place on the tab. The cable covers end at the Lokar supplied bracket at the lower left hand side of the photo. The bracket was installed using rivnuts in case I needed to remove it later to replace cables, etc.

    image.jpg

    Here are the views from the Passenger Side . The brake fully engages in about 3 clicks.

    image.jpg

    Carl
    Last edited by carlewms; 03-17-2014 at 02:06 AM.
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  36. #76
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    ISIS Explanation and Planning

    In my research I found that the GTM and 33 Rod builders are early adapters of this technology. There are a few roadster types but definitely not as many. I am putting it on my Mk 4 and, after getting the system, I am glad I decided to go this non traditional route. De mystifying ISIS multiplexing is the first step in understanding the advantages it has over conventional wiring systems.

    I broke out the ISIS 3 cell system and laid it out on the dining room table. Being a mechanical engineer, I had to assemble the system to truly visualize the way it gets laid out and put together in the car.

    ISIS is a "hub and spoke" eliminating the need for long powered runs from the switches and fuses to the loads.

    The ISIS 3 cell system consists of three cells, a MEGA Fuse block and the data and power wires to connect the cells to the loads and controls.

    The Three Cells and MEGA Fuse Block

    MASTERCELL: One cell is provided in the kit and serves as the brain for the entire wiring system. It is sort of equivalent to the control functions performed by the non fuse stuff on the fuse block. For example instead a flasher relay, the MASTERCELL, i.e. computer flashes the the lights by controlling power at the POWERCELL by completing that particular circuit.

    POWERCELLS: Two cells are provided with the kit one for the loads on the front and one for the loads on the rear of the car. Think of power cells as being functionally equivalent to the relays and fuse block in a conventional wiring harness. These cells are designed to be in the engine compartment as long as they are kept away from the real hot spots like the headers.

    MEGA Fuse Block, connected on one side to the battery and the other side to the POWERCELLS provides the first level of protection for the vehicle electrics. Four 60 amp fuses (2 per POWERCELL) are installed in the block.

    CAN Data Cable is the information highway between the cells, providing control and fault indication transmission paths for the system.

    Control Unit Connector Wire connects the POWERCELL to the positive side of a load.

    MASTERCELL Input Unit Switch Connector connects the switches to the MASTERCELL.

    Following the excellent documentation provided with the purchase (which is also available for download from their website), I first installed the wiring looms and other components on the cells.

    Here are annotated photos of the respective cells:

    MASTERCELL:

    image.jpg

    POWERCELL (in this case the rear POWERCELL)

    image.jpg

    MegaFuse Block

    image.jpg

    Using ISIS considerably reduces the 12V powered wiring that normally runs to a from the fuse box (which is normally located in the DS foot box on an FFR Mk 4). It virtually eliminates high powered circuits behind the dashboard depending on where you place relays for heaters, air conditioning, seat warmers or other loads requiring greater than 25 amps. The ignition switch/start button are wired up with low voltage wiring to the MASTERCELL eliminating the need for any 12v current running through these switches.

    More to follow in future updates including the differences in cost, build time, pros and cons of using ISIS over conventional wiring systems.

    Carl

    PS. Yes the system has several system failure backups to get you home.
    Last edited by carlewms; 01-04-2014 at 08:29 AM.
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  37. #77
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Modification Weekend Continues

    Over the last few days I have managed to cut more aluminum than I intended (i.e. more parts for the Wall of Shame) but I am learning a whole lot ...

    I have not purchased a brake or shear so this was all done with a makeshift benchtop brake and hand cut with hand shears.

    Like others I wanted to expand the area between the accelerator pedal and the inside wall of the DS footbox. Here is my version borrowed from the many ideas but specially Kliener:

    image.jpg

    I added about 2 inches at the widest point near the RT accelerator. The inside not as well executed as i like but noise and heat abatement a carpet will most of the sins.

    Here are views from the engine compartment side. This side looks a lot cleaner.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    This is the view from the front of the car.

    image.jpg

    The next modification I tackled relates to my phat butt .... I decided I needed to maximize the distance from the bottom of the steering wheel to the seat to make it a little easier to get in and out of the car.

    I used 1/2 in piece of alumimun to raise the pillow block without any interference with the master cylinders or the pedal box.

    image.jpg

    The addition of the RT turn signal as well a change to the pillow block required increasing the size of and moving the hole up on the dash sheet metal. Here are the results.

    image.jpg

    I will have to make a piece to fit under the shaft to provide support for the bezel I will eventually put on the dash.

    Carl
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  38. #78
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    ISIS Overview and Switching Example

    In a continuing effort to understand and plan the installation on my car...

    Here is a simplified overview of how the system is setup and wired.

    image.jpg

    You can start to see some of the advantages of ISIS:

    1. Less Wiring: Instead of routing power for multiple loads (read positive) from a fuse box in the DS foot box, power is run a much shorter distance from the POWERCELL to the load. In the headlight example you reduce wiring by about 2.5 ft;
    2. Reduction in Use of Relays/Flashers. Since this function for all loads less than 25A is inside ISIS, this eliminates most relays required. At this point the only relays I believe I will have are the fan relay, the seat warmers and the AC unit. No flashers will be required;
    3. Reduction in Connections. With proper planning there will be less connections increasing system reliability and safety. Most relays have 4 connections 2 for the control side and 2 for the power side;
    4. Eliminates the conventional Fuse Panel. You trade the fuse panel for the MASTERCELL and distributed POWERCELLS. You can argue that your adding 2 more black boxes vice the one fuse panel. True but you are trading a "dumb" fuse panel incapable of BITE (Built In Test Equipment) increasing reliability and capability you just cannot get with a traditional fuse panel as well as eliminating numerous connections of the components on the panel;
    5. Control. As Julian explained in his post, with ISIS you have control of how power is applied to a load. With its Soft Start programming the power applied to the headlights is gradually applied allowing the filaments to heat up slowly increasing reliability and life of the light; and;
    6. MEGA Fuse Box. The box will be located immediately above the battery on the PS F-panel. This fused panel provides additional protection for power being distributed to the two POWERCELLs. In the current conventional wiring system, there is not really any protection between the positive side of the battery and the fuse panel or ignition switch.

    Carl
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  39. #79
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    Breeze Front Battery Box Installed

    I woke up early and got out in the garage to finish the installation of the Breeze battery box before heading off to work.

    Over the last two days, I applied two coats of POR 15 followed by two coats of rattle can black semi gloss Rustoleum paint to the box components. I also drilled two holes in the front so a real screw driver with full grip could be used to the mount screws on the crossmember.

    Here are some photos of the installation. I had no assistant so a handy carpenter's clamp became my assistant. She worked hard with no complaints!

    image.jpg

    The clamp (tireless assistant) held the box against the front x member for all fit up and installation.

    Prior to installing the box, I put rubber cement on the washers that provide the gap between the box and the crossmember. This held them in place while I installed the two screws. Since it was a little hard to line up the holes, I used a punch to make sure the rear face of the box, the washers and the tapped holes were lined up.

    image.jpg

    Since I drilled two holes in the front end of the box, installation of the screws on the rear of the box was a lot easier and I could get a better grip on the screwdriver.

    image.jpg

    After mounting the rear screws, I aligned and riveted in the three front rivets on the cross member. As recommended by Breeze, I still need to add two more rivets in the front, but it sure seems pretty solid as is.

    Here is the mechanically complete box:

    image.jpg


    image.jpg

    I need to buy the battery and mockup the ISIS components associated with the battery to finish the electrical side of the installation.

    Carl
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  40. #80
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Exclamation iSIS Installation Starts plus more sheet metal work

    Originally planning to mount the ISIS MEGA Fuse Block on the PS F-Panel, I found there was not enough room for the required (at least in my mind) cover. After deciding to install the fuse block above the Breeze battery box, I made up a 1/8 in aluminum back panel that will support the fuses and be mounted on the front x member above the battery.

    I continued working on the fuse box cover which is taking a lot longer than it should because of my steep learning curve.

    I prepared a support plate for the MEGA using 1/8 th inch plate and bored holes to mount the fuses. I then scuffed up the plate with sand paper and put on the first coat of POR-15.

    image.jpg

    I then sprayed the inside of the box with Plastisol spray paint.

    image.jpg

    I found the following camloc fittings to use on the box for the MEGA fuses from MILSPEC (http://www.milspecproducts.com/PreEngSets.htm#2600):

    image.jpg

    2600 Series (Truss Head) c-spec Fastener Sets are perfect for general purpose applications such as: UAVs, Remotely Piloted Aircraft, interior panels, electronic enclosures, lighting fixtures, etc. They are design for use where a low profile (truss type) protruding head style is desirable.

    They come in complete sets with an adjustable retainer to account for different thickness of materials.

    While applying multiple coats to the base and the box interior, I got some of the yard mowed. At least now it is easier to mow now that I knocked the big stuff knocked down.

    image.jpg

    The sheet metal work got a little easier following the arrival my latest toy from Eastwood:

    image.jpg

    Carl
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