Electric Fan turn-on temp

[bansheekev]

Slider,

Did you run the Orange and Black wires from the Controls Pack directly to the fan + and -? Or, did you splice into the FF harness? If you ran the Orange and Black directly it should be fine. If you didn't, and you spliced into the FF harness, let me know... I went through some trial and error to get it to work using the Controls Pack Orange wire as a 12V trigger to the FF harness relay to allow me to use the FF harness wiring for the fan.

Was your 210 degree measurement from the dash gauge? If so, where is your gauge sensor located?

Kevin

Interesting discussion... Had my car in being tuned today... The fan NEVER came on (We shut down the engine before it ran too long at about 210). All the wiring for the fan appears to be as it is supposed to be. As I think back on how I did the wiring, and after reviewing the instructions, it appears that essentially the orange wire runs from the fan motor, to the post in the black control box, effectively eliminating the FF harness and fuse block (thus why the fuse and relay were removed). Does this sound correct? Just trying to figure out if I can run a new "orange" wire from the fan to the post in the coyote black box rather than open every harness again. Does my line of thinking make sense?

(And yes, we did verify that the fan motor is properly grounded)

[Slider]

Hi. So I followed the instructions from the FF Coyote Installation guide. So I spliced into the FF Harness, but when I think this all the way through, while I used the Ron Francis wires in reality I cut the FF fuse block and relay out of the equation. So what I'm thinking now is that I remove the orange wire that is currently hooked up at the fan and the Control box, and run a new "orange" wire straight from the fan to the control box. That way I would eliminate any confusion along the way. I've got the fan grounded so that should be fine. Does that make sense? Second, is there any way I can test the fan without running it up to temp to make sure I've got it wired correctly?

As for where the temp measurement for the dash gauge is, that is exactly where FF suggests in their Coyote Instruction guide.

Did you run the Orange and Black wires from the Controls Pack directly to the fan + and -? Or, did you splice into the FF harness? If you ran the Orange and Black directly it should be fine. If you didn't, and you spliced into the FF harness, let me know... I went through some trial and error to get it to work using the Controls Pack Orange wire as a 12V trigger to the FF harness relay to allow me to use the FF harness wiring for the fan.

Was your 210 degree measurement from the dash gauge? If so, where is your gauge sensor located?

Kevin[/QUOTE]

[bansheekev]

If I understand you correctly, you used the FF harness wires to the fan but cut them before the fuse box to take the FF relay out if the circuit and connected them to the post in the power distribution box for the controls pack. If that's the case, just using the orange wire in the coyote harness marked cooling fan to wire the fan and connecting the orange wire/ring terminal called out in the controls pack instructions at the power distribution block would probably be your best bet.

I used the orange cooling fan wire in the controls pack harness as a 12v trigger wire to control the relay in the FF harness. The coyote controls pack basically became an automatic version of the optional manual dash fan switch called out in the FF wiring harness instructions. You wind up with two relays in series (the one in the controls pack power distribution box triggering the one in the FF fuse box).

You can obviously test the fan by itself but bringing it up to temp is the only way to test the automatic on-off.

Kevin

Kevin

[Slider]

Thanks Kevin. Is there a particular reason you went with the two relays? I understand electricity to a certain degree, so am probably missing something here. It would seem pretty simple to do either way that you describe. I'd tried the FF instructions, which either didn't work, or i messed up (Probably my fault). I'm just looking for the cleanest way to fix it now, and hoping to NOT have to unwind all the wires to figure out where I messed up. I basically want to eliminate what I had tried (cut both ends of the wire) and then run a new wire from the controls box to the fan, leaving the old wire in place, but not connected to anything. Make sense?

If I understand you correctly, you used the FF harness wires to the fan but cut them before the fuse box to take the FF relay out if the circuit and connected them to the post in the power distribution box for the controls pack. If that's the case, just using the orange wire in the coyote harness marked cooling fan to wire the fan and connecting the orange wire/ring terminal called out in the controls pack instructions at the power distribution block would probably be your best bet.

I used the orange cooling fan wire in the controls pack harness as a 12v trigger wire to control the relay in the FF harness. The coyote controls pack basically became an automatic version of the optional manual dash fan switch called out in the FF wiring harness instructions. You wind up with two relays in series (the one in the controls pack power distribution box triggering the one in the FF fuse box).

You can obviously test the fan by itself but bringing it up to temp is the only way to test the automatic on-off.

Kevin

Kevin

[bansheekev]

Yes makes total sense. Your setup would then be identical to Clemson's which is proven.

For me my over analyzing engineer brain probably got the best of me. I went the double relay route so that if a fuse blew it would be the one in the FF fuse panel which is easy to get to under the steering wheel. Getting to the fuse in the power distribution box for the controls pack is going to be difficult for my car with a under dash filler panel in the way and a heater/glovebox behind the dash. I also wanted a clean clutter free engine bay and the FF wiring is right there so why not use it... This was my thought pattern in deciding.

I should have the computer mounted and the rest of the controls pack wiring finished by the weekend. The chassis wiring has been done for a whole and was already tested. Only about 6 more wires!

Now if I could just find a money tree to come up with the money to buy the transmission I would be good. Taxes hurt and I've been putting my wife and kids off on a vacation... But I'm so close! Frustrating...

Kevin

Thanks Kevin. Is there a particular reason you went with the two relays? I understand electricity to a certain degree, so am probably missing something here. It would seem pretty simple to do either way that you describe. I'd tried the FF instructions, which either didn't work, or i messed up (Probably my fault). I'm just looking for the cleanest way to fix it now, and hoping to NOT have to unwind all the wires to figure out where I messed up. I basically want to eliminate what I had tried (cut both ends of the wire) and then run a new wire from the controls box to the fan, leaving the old wire in place, but not connected to anything. Make sense?

[bansheekev]

BTW, what took me a little while to figure out with the FF harness in regard to the cooling fan circuit is that it is wired to use an automatic thermal switch and / or or a manual dash switch. To remove the thermal switch from the equation I had to wire it directly to ground. That way the FF cooling fan circuit worked only of 12v being put on the FF orange cooling fan wire in the dash harness designed for a dash override switch which is fed by the orange controls pack cooling fan wire.

I am so ready to be done with wiring and get back to mechanical stuff!

Kevin

Thanks Kevin. Is there a particular reason you went with the two relays? I understand electricity to a certain degree, so am probably missing something here. It would seem pretty simple to do either way that you describe. I'd tried the FF instructions, which either didn't work, or i messed up (Probably my fault). I'm just looking for the cleanest way to fix it now, and hoping to NOT have to unwind all the wires to figure out where I messed up. I basically want to eliminate what I had tried (cut both ends of the wire) and then run a new wire from the controls box to the fan, leaving the old wire in place, but not connected to anything. Make sense?