Which do you use...thermostat switch in the bottom of the radiator or on a manual switch on the dash? Why? I am leaning toward a manual switch just one less thing to malfunction. Opinions please?
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Which do you use...thermostat switch in the bottom of the radiator or on a manual switch on the dash? Why? I am leaning toward a manual switch just one less thing to malfunction. Opinions please?
FFR HR #530
Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,
My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/
Don't even consider manual switch, if you don't see it in time its all over you will cook you engine. You can have both which is some time handy in traffic.
Tony
Use a thermostat switch mounted in the intake manifold to measure engine water temp, not radiator temp. If the thermostat ever sticks closed, you won't know your engine is overheating. You can wire a light to activate when the switch activates the fan. I did this on my Gt40 and worked great.
I do all of mine with a thermo switch along with a manual override in parallel. I also use an indicator light to show when the relay is energized by either control.
Jeff
Hi Maczter,
How's that 33 build going! I love that car. Had a steel 34 sedan. It is the real hot rod look.
Regarding the cooling fan wiring, you really should do the thermostat thing. I have dual fans from Summit and dual relay circuits so there is a sort of fail safe with those units. I am a little parinod about this part so I have a computer temp gauge (signals PCM) original, a temp gauge sensor, and the fan relay sensor. I did not take a chance on any calibration variance from sensor to sensor. So far it's working as designed. I live in AZ so it is a real test of cooling capacity. Don't want to fry your expensive hot rod engine.
Another factor is where the relays are in relation to the fans and battery. I did my battery install in the trunk but if I had it to do over again, I would put the battery in front and shorten the battery runs to the relays and the hot wire run to the fans. I don't know if you have that option. However, my wiring sizes are large enough and runs are as short as I could make them with the setup. You might want to carry an extra relay in your trunk just to save some downtime. Like I said, this is one of my more personal concerns. Good luck, WEK.
FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046