What else for my EJ255?

[wleehendrick]

So, I'm about ready to complete engine work and install, but since I'm inexperienced with Subies, I'd appreciate some motor suggestions.

My donor was a 70k 2006 WRX in great shape (rear ended), so while I'm envious of the engine builds I've seen here, my plan is a basic maintenance overhaul and 'Stage 2' upgrade keeping the stock ECU, turbo, injectors, headers and IC. Here's what I've done so far/ in process:

PS pump & AC compressor removed, Mike's alt bracket and tensioner, Craig's dipstick and filler when done
Water pump, timing belt, thermostat, gaskets and plugs
Cobb Intake, Gimmick turbo inlet, silicone IC hoses
Grimmspeed TGV deletes
Air pump block-off plates
I'm still on the fence of springing for an Accessport or just getting a tactrix cable and opensource tuning
For the exhaust, I'd like to ditch the OEM cat and add a muffler, but no specific plans yet.

The only other mod I'm considering presently is a boost controller (manual/electronic). Would I benefit from one, or is the stock sufficient? Am I missing anything else critical or recommended for this set-up?

Thanks!

Lee

[STiPWRD]

You may want to replace that timing belt idler pulleys and tensioner. My old motor lasted 150k miles before one of the idler pulleys seized up and messed up my timing belt. Once the engine is installed, it may be very difficult if not impossible to replace these.

[billjr212]

If you go with the Accessport, seems like the boost controller would be unnecessary. I've only done Stage 1 on my 2 WRX's though (Cobb both times), so I can't comment if Stage 2 opens up some new issue there.

I would agree with the above on the timing belt pulleys/etc. Much easier to change now than later and relatively cheap insurance given your current mileage.

I would also check if there is any conflict between running a tune and installing a lightweight Perrin crank pulley. At ~$100, I found it to be worth the cost on my last WRX. Seemed to rev a little more freely.

[Rasmus]

Sit no longer on the fence about tuning. Any of the "air" upgrades you install will only be maybe at 20% of their potential if you don't tell the ECU what's going on. Air upgrade examples: high flow cat, TGV delete, Turbo inlet, exhaust. Any fuel upgrade will be 0% effective and might actually make less power and consume more fuel if you don't tell the the ECU what's up. Or you could have your set up professionally tuned and then download the tune with opensource software and look at what the tuner did. Learn one table at a time. Start with the MAF table and learn from there.

Electronic Boost control. Do it. You can get a turbo up to speed hundreds of RPM quicker. Example: rather than full boost coming on at 4400 RPM you can get it at 3850. EBC will force that waste gate closed and open it faster and much more precisely than the OEM boost controler. Manual Boost control is only if you don't want your ECU to control your boost. Why would you want to take a full three steps backward? Let the ECU run the show. You must tune for an EBC though.

[Rasmus]

You may want to replace that timing belt idler pulleys and tensioner..

And this. Oh so much this. The timing belt will out last the pulley bearings. All you need is one of those bearings to seize and you're rebuilding the whole motor. Replace the timing belt, and just as important, replace all the pulleys with OEM ones. OEM only.

[wleehendrick]

Thanks for the input, everyone!

I definitely plan to tune it, just undecided between getting an Accessport and using an Cobb OTS tune until I take it to a dyno for a custom tune, or just going opensource. I'll probably pick up a GS EBC, but won't install it until it's time for a custom tune.

And I'll make sure to get new pulleys to put in with the timing belt and tensioner that I already have.

Thanks again!

[wleehendrick]

I would also check if there is any conflict between running a tune and installing a lightweight Perrin crank pulley. At ~$100, I found it to be worth the cost on my last WRX. Seemed to rev a little more freely.

Thanks for the suggestion, I thought about that, but with the AC compressor and PS pump removed, I think the accessory drive is pretty light only spinning the alternator, and I've read the EJ's can have issues if lightened too much.

[Somerset Subaru]

And this. Oh so much this. The timing belt will out last the pulley bearings. All you need is one of those bearings to seize and you're rebuilding the whole motor. Replace the timing belt, and just as important, replace all the pulleys with OEM ones. OEM only.

Speaking of which we just had a 09 STi in with a knock and it was a bad motor but upon inspection 2 of the 4 pulleys were bad at 60k! For this reason I keep many of these in stock along with tensioners and the timing belts.


-Adam

[wleehendrick]

For this reason I keep many of these in stock along with tensioners and the timing belts.

Hi Adam, I'll be getting in touch soon to get the pulleys, and a few other parts.

Lee

[Samiam1017]

There's filters in the banjo bolts that you might want to replace. It's the banjos with the "bump " on the top

[Mechie3]

There's a cheap solution for the airpump block off plates. The Tribeca comes with them from the factory. ~$3/ea. The 06 WRX aftermarket ones are about $30. They have two different shapes, Tribeca only has one, but apparently they fit. The holes in the head and the bolt spacing are the same, so not sure why they're different.

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...delete-116571/

Subaru PN: 14754AA050

[wleehendrick]

There's a cheap solution for the airpump block off plates.

Thanks... I already bought the aftermarket ones, but this info will help others!

[Pearldrummer7]

Sit no longer on the fence about tuning. Any of the "air" upgrades you install will only be maybe at 20% of their potential if you don't tell the ECU what's going on. Air upgrade examples: high flow cat, TGV delete, Turbo inlet, exhaust. Any fuel upgrade will be 0% effective and might actually make less power and consume more fuel if you don't tell the the ECU what's up. Or you could have your set up professionally tuned and then download the tune with opensource software and look at what the tuner did. Learn one table at a time. Start with the MAF table and learn from there.

Electronic Boost control. Do it. You can get a turbo up to speed hundreds of RPM quicker. Example: rather than full boost coming on at 4400 RPM you can get it at 3850. EBC will force that waste gate closed and open it faster and much more precisely than the OEM boost controler. Manual Boost control is only if you don't want your ECU to control your boost. Why would you want to take a full three steps backward? Let the ECU run the show. You must tune for an EBC though.

Came here to basically say both of these things exactly. In Southern CA, there are tons of tuner options not terribly far from you. Dyno tuning it is absolutely the way to go, and EBCS is almost a must!

Best of luck!

[wleehendrick]

There's filters in the banjo bolts that you might want to replace. It's the banjos with the "bump " on the top

I was not aware of that issue. After Googleing, I see that's quite the can of worms... is it recommended to remove, clean or replace the filter screen(s)? Also since I have an 06, the only one I should have to worry about is in turbo supply line?

[wleehendrick]

Came here to basically say both of these things exactly. In Southern CA, there are tons of tuner options not terribly far from you. Dyno tuning it is absolutely the way to go, and EBCS is almost a must!

Best of luck!

Thanks... I just sprang for a Cobb Accessport (RallySportDirect is currently having a sale). I'll start with an OTS tune, but since Crawford Performance tunes the Cobb, and they're close by, so at some point I'll get an EBC and dyno tune.

[longislandwrx]

You'll need an uppipe to run a stage 2+ tune. if you haven't bought one already and if your budget allows go EWG, you'll need something like

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Adjustable...m#Applications if you don't want to weld your turbo.

agree on the solenoid. I would use the GS or the NEW Perrin one which is "new" technology

If you are keeping the stock manifolds, I recommend a high flow cross-pipe... get the GS or the Equilibrium tuning one. big power there.

[billjr212]

I thought the uppipe was already cat-less by 2006. Is there much to gain with the aftermarket uppipe? Not required for Stage 2 (I know you put 2+) according to Cobb's website.

Just curious! I have a bit of a gap in my knowledge base since I went from a 2002 to a 2011 for my DD.

[longislandwrx]

Apologies, you are correct. There are still gains to be had with an aftermarket one, due to the diameter but yes you will be fine without it.

[wleehendrick]

Apologies, you are correct. There are still gains to be had with an aftermarket one, due to the diameter but yes you will be fine without it.

Great... save that $$ for the dyno!!

[Samiam1017]

I was not aware of that issue. After Googleing, I see that's quite the can of worms... is it recommended to remove, clean or replace the filter screen(s)? Also since I have an 06, the only one I should have to worry about is in turbo supply line?

I have 06 Wrx heads on my block and I had two of the filters. I replaced them didn't clean them. Wasn't cheap I remember. But everything's new or remanufactured on my motor so I thought it would be best to replace.

[wleehendrick]

I have 06 Wrx heads on my block and I had two of the filters. I replaced them didn't clean them. Wasn't cheap I remember. But everything's new or remanufactured on my motor so I thought it would be best to replace.

Well, not knowing the maintenance history of my donor, and reading some of the horror stories, makes me want to check/change them to be sure!