Thanks Jeff, you helped me a lot.
Thanks chopthebass, I think the biggest feat was the tilt front. It works very well and I am quite pleased how it turned out.
Thanks Dale, I had to look it up and found it to be Australian lingo.
Some of the still to be done items on the list was setting frame height and checking corner weights. I set the frame height about a year ago but it now has additional weight on the chassis so it was about 1/2" low all the way around. Adjusting the coil-overs on the rear was easy because the IRS would droop enough to free up the springs. The front shocks limited the droop so the springs were still loaded with the wheels off the ground. I made a spanner tool to adjust the front springs. It took about 30 minutes with some scrap material and worked very well.
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After the ride height was established, I wanted to weighed each corner but didn't have anything but three bathroom scales purchased a few years ago for another purpose. The bathroom scales have a maximum weight reading of 300# and I knew the each wheel would be around 600# so it would take all three scales and divide the weight between them. I unassembled a wheel dolly to use as a cradle for holding the tire with the scales placed under it. I blocked the other tires to be the same height as the one being weighed so the chassis wouldn't be disturbed during the process. I biased the fulcrum for the end with the single scale so it would have less than half of the weight by using a thin strip of wood at the very edge of the dolly. It can be seen in one of the photos. To make a long story short the total weight was 2360 with a 51% rear bias. The maximum left/right difference was on the rears with the right side 30# heaver than the left. Here are a few pictures of the Red Neck method.
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Now I need to check the alignment on all four and I think I will be ready for the ASE Master Mechanic inspection.