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Thread: Anyone use stainless brake lines with AN fittings?

  1. #1
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    Anyone use stainless brake lines with AN fittings?

    My friend is building a truck and bought a new TCI chassis with all new brake lines. They are stainless with all 37* flare AN fittings in aluminum. They have the tube sleeves for hard lines and, boy, does it look neat. Has anyone here done that? I read somewhere that you should use only steel tube sleeves and nuts on brake lines but his came all pre tubed from TCI using aluminum sleeves and nuts on the stainless lines. Even the check valves are aluminum (and those are specifically for brakes).

    Any input from the community here?

    Thanks in advance.
    '33 Hot Rod
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  2. #2
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    It would depend on what the pressure rating is for the aluminum fittings. I'd seer way clear from anything not pressure rated, and most certainly stay away from store brand fittings. Next issue is corrosion. Brake systems are well known for corrosion and aluminum is not a corrosion resistant material.

    Next would be appearance. Stainless isn't really the optimum choice for an automotive brake system, but it does look really nice when done well. Why would anyone go to the trouble and expense of stainless lines and not finish it off with stainless fittings? May look cool to the layman, but would look like a job half done to an expert.

    EDIT: If I were a vehicle inspector for the DMV, I would reject a car with aluminum fittings unless the owner could provide some sort of certification for them. I have certs for my NiCopp lines because of this issue. The inspector my not know about it and think it can't handle the pressure.
    Last edited by mikeinatlanta; 04-27-2017 at 07:20 AM.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  3. #3
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    TCI and other companies have been selling complete frames with suspension and 37 degree brake lines for decades. It seems to be the hot rod standard. The 37 degree fittings will not be a problem and neither will the aluminum fittings. The residual valves are always aluminum and usually from Wilwood. I chose to use 45 degree double flares with stainless lines and stainless tube nuts on my car, but other fittings are aluminum and brass. I have all Wilwood products and the fittings they offer for various uses may be brass or aluminum. Stainless steel is NOT an option. For example a 1/8" NPT to 45 degree flare fitting will be brass, while the adaptors from the MC to the 45 degree flares will be aluminum. One problem with threading together two parts made from SS is galling. If you don't use anti-seize on the male threads, they can gall and you'll never get them apart.

    SS tubing is the best product out there, with regard to looks and longevity, but it is hard to bend and hard to double flare. I bought some Nicopp tubing recently and agree that it's easy to work with.

  4. #4
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    I second Dave's comment. Stainless on stainless galls threads and attitude real fast. Brake fluid is not a good stainless thread lubricant. Aluminum is OK if it is annealed so the flare seals well, hence other comments posted about aluminum washers on the banjo fittings and having to use Stato Seals. I like the NiCU lines for fabrication and corrosion resistance. I have found aluminum washers and fittings problematic if you disassemble and reassemble. Copper sealing washers and brass fittings work much better on items that get taken apart occasionally.

  5. #5
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    Lots of good info. Very familiar with stainless gall. Aluminum will too but not as readily. However, even though they do sell stainless couplers and tube sleeves, all his couplers and sleeves are aluminum. No threaded connections are stainless and unless something leaks, fluid shouldn't touch the aluminum couplers. Aluminum valves etc, that's why it's important to keep it sealed and dry. Corrosion won't happen without oxygen (think years of service from mild steel that easily oxidizes also)

    My biggest worry is the aluminum couplers. Are they rated for the pressure of brake systems? Logically, they should be fine especially at -3 size, but I'd like to build it right the first time and not have to redo all those fittings.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    My biggest worry is the aluminum couplers. Are they rated for the pressure of brake systems? Logically, they should be fine especially at -3 size, but I'd like to build it right the first time and not have to redo all those fittings.
    After looking at a Speedway catalog, I notice that the AN couplers and sleeves that they sell are either steel or stainless steel. You could always call TCI and get their take on it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS53 View Post
    After looking at a Speedway catalog, I notice that the AN couplers and sleeves that they sell are either steel or stainless steel. You could always call TCI and get their take on it.
    I've been considering that. Hate to where I'm not exactly a customer but I may just do that.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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