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E-Brake Question
I'am using the Factory five E-Brake cables and planned to use my own E-brake handle from a 1997 Mustang. After weeks of not being able to get tension on the handle/cables I am giving up on the handle and plan to be a new one. I have read many of the posts regarding E-brake mods from EdwardB and others. First, is there a preferred E-Brake handle (Factory five or Lokar)? Are the Mods that most people are doing for aesthetic reasons or are they needed to make the cables work correctly?
As usual thanks for the advice
Craig
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Senior Member
I've used both Mustang handles and the FFR designed one. Either work OK but each has their own quirks. The Mustang handles have a self-adjusting mechanism that must be dealt with. Some disable it. Not a big deal but after doing both I do prefer the simplicity of the FFR handle. It seems a little flimsy I guess at first. But it seems to work fine. Not sure why you're having trouble getting tension on it. The handle itself just locks in position or releases. Tension comes from the cables.
Many have used the Lokar handles, mainly I think when relocating the handle onto the transmission tunnel top. I personally don't have experience with them. But most installations I've seen use some kind of pulley arrangement to increase the leverage. Otherwise they apparently take a lot of muscle.
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Thanks Edward. The spring in the mustang handle when either in the car or off will not coil when tightened. Someone in my previous questions suggested to coil the spring before I installed which I did. Although that did not situation. Still when I pulled up on the ebrake there was still no tension what so ever. I wil order one from FFR. Regarding the pulleys, is that needed or did you do that because you did not like the existing design and wanted to clean it up?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
cfriedman67
Thanks Edward. The spring in the mustang handle when either in the car or off will not coil when tightened. Someone in my previous questions suggested to coil the spring before I installed which I did. Although that did not situation. Still when I pulled up on the ebrake there was still no tension what so ever. I wil order one from FFR. Regarding the pulleys, is that needed or did you do that because you did not like the existing design and wanted to clean it up?
For the Mustang handle, yes the spring must be wound before attaching the cable. When you set the spring, there's a hole to you can put a nail, screw, piece of wire, whatever through to hold it in the sprung position. Once you attach the cable, pull the pin and you should have tension. Harder to explain than to do.
The mod I did with pulleys was to avoid routing the cables under the 4-inch tube, per the instructions. Hundreds (thousands?) of builds have the cables routed that way. But I personally don't care for it.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
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Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
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Thanks again. I will give it try again to wind the spring before buying the handle. Appreciate the advise.FFrearbrake.JPG
One last question if I may. I am assuming that this the correct way to attach the E brake cable to the rear brake.
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Originally Posted by
cfriedman67
Thanks again. I will give it try again to wind the spring before buying the handle. Appreciate the advise.
FFrearbrake.JPG
One last question if I may. I am assuming that this the correct way to attach the E brake cable to the rear brake.
I took a video of the cut away Cobra that FFR put together. Here is their ebrake cable attach. HTH, Dave
https://youtu.be/LWG_waRxO1w?t=5m30sebrake capture.JPG
Dave
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What lever you need can depend on the brakes being used. I have Wilwood 4 piston rear calipers with the drum type parking brake. I never could get a decent amount of pull from a Lokar handle, so I gave up and installed an electric E-Stopp actuator with 600 lbs of pull. That did the trick, but it is pricey and requires a lot of length.
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thanks for the picture and youtube. I do have them incorrect. Mine are first threaded through the bracket on the rear end next to the calipers which from your picture is incorrect. I will make the change over the weekend.
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The spring catch mechanism is in the handle not on the calipers. Take the stock handle out of the car and see very clearly how it works. There are two sprockets, one has to be deleted. We have almost always used the stock or our handle. The reason yours is not working is the adjustable mechanism in the handle is not hooked up or by passed. HTH, Richard.
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I used a 1998 Mustang Cobra handle, the FFR e-brake cables, a Lokar brass block and a Camaro coupler piece to couple the cables to the handle. The forward end of the cables sit in the chassis frame bracket and I fed the short cable through a bit of hose and the second chassis frame bracket to align with the handle better. The whole system works like a charm and I have about 1" of threaded adjustment available to me if I need to tension the system a bit more.
Mustang E Handle.jpgEBrake Cable Setup.jpg
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Thanks for the pictures. I just realized that I don't have this piece on my handle that you do. is it needed?Mustang E Handle.jpg
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That piece locks the spring in place. If you remove it, the spring unravels and it is very difficult to reset (ask me how I know!). The handle is off a 98 Mustang Cobra. I can see how you are not developing any cable tension without it. It certainly works very well with it on.
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To ravel it back what do you suggest?
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I clamped the handle on a vice, bent and hooked a good sized wire to the spring hook and yanked it through until the spring hook was in position.
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