Has anyone successfully rigged a pressure bleed cap for the FF polished reservoirs? I don't want to spend more $ on the CNC reservoirs. I could buy another reservoir and mod the cap, but that seems like a waste.
Thanks for any help.
Joe
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Has anyone successfully rigged a pressure bleed cap for the FF polished reservoirs? I don't want to spend more $ on the CNC reservoirs. I could buy another reservoir and mod the cap, but that seems like a waste.
Thanks for any help.
Joe
Motive Products makes caps for many different size master cylinders.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...eder+cap&ajr=0
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Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
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You don't need much pressure; 5 psi will get the job done & certainly less than 10. A bicycle inner tube knotted at one end and slipped over the reservoir body would work. Pump up the tube just enough to make it resist hand pressure and you're good to go. Be sure to check the reservoir fluid level to keep it from running dry.
John
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 12-27-2017 at 06:11 PM.
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
I purchased a rubber stopper from McMaster carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber/=1aver9c
Gary
Mark IV base kit, 2015 Coyote, Wilwood brakes, IRS-3.55 TruTrac, T56, ABS, PS, Nitto G2, Carbon fiber Dash
John - A combination seal and bladder at the same time! Sounds like a plan.
Papa - I went through the Motive adapters in some detail, but couldn't find any that seemed to match the FF reservoir cap. Probably their universal adapter would work, as it just makes a face seal on the reservoir top.
Working off Gary's idea, I found size 6 1/2 Rubber Tapered Round Plugs at McMaster with one hole. I plan to widen the hole a bit and silicone a quick-disconnect in there for my compressor to attach to. 5 psi isn't much, but I figure the plug will pop out if the pressure gets too high.
Note that I used Size 10 of these same plugs to anchor the e-brake cables in the differential housing 'ears'.
Thanks for the quick feedback!
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
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Last edited by Ducky2009; 12-27-2017 at 10:07 PM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
When I was making up my pressure bleeder for my CNC MCs I talked to CNC. They strongly recommend a max of 5# pressure. They also strongly advised me to be sure I did not move the brake pedal while I had pressure on the MC.
I started w/ a piece of radiator hose that would slip over the top of the reservoir and then went to the plumbing section at Ace.
Pressure Bleeder by craig stuard, on Flickr
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
I love that home made tool. simple , practical and cheap.
Greatly appreciate all the feedback and support. I'm constantly amazed at the different creative approaches folks use to overcome obstacles.
David - PM sent.
Papa - You're concerned about the compressor supplying too much pressure? I could mount a Shrader valve just as easily as a QD and have my son man the pump while I crack the fittings.
Craig - Thanks for the extra tip about not moving the brake pedal while pressure is on. Hadn't thought that far ahead and might have done it without thinking.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
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Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
Pressurizing the MC to bleed the brakes instead of pumping the brake pedal?
MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18
The master cylinder reservoirs to be exact. It was the ONLY way I could get all the air out of my lines after trying for two days to do it other ways! For some reason the Wilwood cylinders admit air (around the piston I am assuming) when trying to bleed the conventional way.
MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands
If you haven't already done it, you'll want to bench bleed the master cylinders before you start working at the calipers. It's easy to do with the masters mounted in the car. Just attach a piece of tubing from the "out" port on the master cylinder and run it to the reservoir. Pump the brake pedal to cycle fluid through the master until you don't have any air bubbles. Reconnect your brake line and then bleed the calipers.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
I haven't tried this yet but I think it will work!!
IMG_1284.JPG
MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18