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33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
One of your gents posted the '33 had 4.5" of ground clearance, so I should have 3.75" with the PS motor hanging down. This might be OK. My lowered 540i only has 3" of ground clearance under the lower engine cover. I just have to take it easy over speed bumps or take them at a slight angle and I'm OK.
I'll wait until the car shows up and take some measurements, (got a call from the Stewart Transport driver yesterday, it will be here on Feb 27).
Guess I could possibly buy tires that had one size larger side walls? Might get another 1/4"??
One thing I learned early in my (non FRR) build was that the shocks should ideally be set at 60% compression, at ride height, with a normal load. If you have the specs on the shocks, I'd figure out the perfect ride height for them and substitute mock-up bars for the coil-overs to see what ride height you get. With mock-up bars, weight is no longer a factor. The car will sit the same with out without the engine and body. I even used mock-up bars when I did my own front end alignment. If you get a screwy ride height, is means that the shock length isn't ideal.
I had adjustable mock-up bars from Speedway on the front, but had to modify them to get them short enough. For the rear, I used some cheap 1" EMT steel conduit and drilled fixed holes at the right c-c measurement. It's easier to drill square tube. You can get either one at Home Depot.
Sounds like a good idea Dave. I already have some 1" EMT and square tubing.
I'm planning on using some lower tension QA1 springs for a softer ride, not going to track the car. Maybe just a few 1/4 mile runs until I get booted off cuz it will probably be too quick without having the required equipment.
HVACMAN asked about my PS move to the firewall;
I will look around for some pics of my PS set-up but from what I have seen it would work for almost any engine combo on the 33.
My Uni-steer is mounted on the firewall where the FF carrier bearing usually goes. That bearing then moves down to the plate that FF
says to mount the PS motor to. My install did not require any parts beyond the shafts and bearings that come with the kit and that part
of the firewall isn't used by anything shown in the build manual. A few others have mounted the overflow tank there but my tank is on
the PS.
HTH
Dale
I would love to see a few pictures of your firewall mounting!
The PS motor relocation sounds like a big improvement with little or no extra cost.
Could this be it??
image.jpeg
Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
I'll let Dale explain the rest.
DSCF1607.jpg
Not sure why the pic isn't showing up, however if I click on the attachment the pic shows up.
Here's another try.
image.jpeg
Last edited by JimLev; 02-20-2018 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Added more
I know we are a little off track here talking about PS but it does open up things for a lot of different engine choices
and clears up oil pan issues so the only concern there is keeping any pan shallow enough to be above the frame.
As the picture shows, that's un-used space anyway and close enough to move the module inside away from the heat.
You can also see that the engine side U-joint angle is OK but the one inside the car is sharp enough to bind as is so the
10* wedge eases the angle inside enough to let that joint work properly.
Thanks to Jim for posting the link
Dale
[QUOTE=JimLev;314127]Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
I'll let Dale explain the rest.
DSCF1607.jpg
Wow! This solves several problems. Now, where do you get the aluminum angle wedge for the interior side of the firewall?