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Thread: Hood hinge

  1. #1

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    Hood hinge

    Is there a trick to getting the hood to line up with the hood opening when the hinges are installed? I have been moving it around and retightening the carriage bolts but still off by a decent amount.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    I did mine from below.... just slightly tighten the bolts, loose enough to move them around. Then close the hood and adjust it to your liking, then reach up from underneath and snug them all up. Also, I did not put the pneumatic cyl on until after they were set the way I liked them and tight. Hope this helps.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Not easy. I chased this one around a bunch in my first build and then heard from several on the forum I was doing it wrong. You want to mount the hinges, get the pivots all tight enough to stay in alignment but loose enough to still move. Then tighten the adjustment bolts enough that they'll move, but just barely. Then lower the hood into the opening and get it centered where you want it. Then from underneath, with the hood still closed in the proper position, snug the adjustment bolts. Easier to do without the engine (obviously) but I've done it multiple times with the engine in, and the bolts are reachable with a combination of extensions, long skinny arms, etc. You don't have to get them real tight from underneath. Just enough so they don't move, which isn't that much. You can get them tighter with the hood open from the top. It may take a couple times to get it just right. To get it to go completely down in the front, you may have to loosen only the "down" adjustment bolts (side ones on the frame), bump the hood down slightly from the top, then tighten again from underneath. Hope that makes sense and helps. Works really well. Now if there was only a similar way to do the trunk hinges... I'm guessing you haven't tried those yet.

    Edit: Like Carl said, in fewer words and faster.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-22-2018 at 10:25 PM.
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  4. #4
    Papa's Avatar
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    I'll second what Carl & Paul said, and also know that the hood is shipped oversized and has to be trimmed to fit into the opening. Just be sure to take equal amounts off side-to-side or front-to-back as needed.
    Last edited by Papa; 12-22-2018 at 10:24 PM.
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  5. #5
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    All of the above, but after you get the hood positioned where you want it and all the hinge bolts ready, give the hood some light taps with your fist to get the bolts to shake into place before they are tightened. I did this and did not have to readjust anything.

  6. #6

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Thanks For The Tip Gentlemen!

    M E R R Y.....C H R I S T M A S !
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-23-2018 at 07:09 AM.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try from underneath. Edwardb, I have hot tried trunk yet. I was hoping that would be easier.

  8. #8

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    Cut the hood scoop opening first. Then put the hood where you want it and reaching the hole and tighten the bolts. I use a ratcheting wrench. If you still cannot get it where you want, check to see if you are out of adjustment on one or more of your slots. I have run into this many times.
    mike

  9. #9
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Yes, working from below is the way to go but be aware of a couple of things:
    ---If the front of the body is too low the forward hinge arms will contact the radiator cross tube and you won't be able to get the front of the hood flush with the body. You need at least 1/2" between the underside of the body and square tubing at the point where the tube angles down to the bumper mount plates.
    ---The holes in the hood for the hinge mounts are a bit too far rearward. If you bring the mounts forward about 1/4" on the hood you'll get more to the mid range on fore/aft adjustment and won't have the problem that Mike mentioned of running out of travel in the slots.

    Jeff

  10. #10

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    For the trunk hinge, try this thread.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...nge+adjustment

  11. #11

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    I got it pretty close to where I want it but I realized the passenger side sticks up and the driver side stays flush to the body. I have read on other threads that you can put a strap on the hood and let it sit in the sun for a bit. I’m in the northeast so it’s winter and not much sun now. Will a strap work without the sun or any other suggestions? Or should a wait until spring.

  12. #12
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Where is it up?

    At the front corner=hinge adjustment (be sure that the hinge arm isn't hitting the cross tube as I mentioned in my earlier reply)

    At the rear corner=latch adjustment to pull it down

    Along the sides=body adjustment; i.e. it is sometimes necessary to bring the body to the hood (as opposed to trying to reshape the hood) by using the supplied rubber bumpers or strips of rubber between underside of the hood flange and the square tubing that runs along the sides of the opening.

    Jeff

  13. #13

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    It is sticking up along the side about 1/4 inch - 3/8ths of inch. Never thought about bringing the body up. I will give it a try. Thanks for the help. Could not do it without the help:

  14. #14
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    When i got my hood hinge in one side was up, found one arm for the hinge was to long, there were three lenghs, ffr had to send me the right one.
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  15. #15
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    What clearance between the body and the hood are you using, and what looks better?

  16. #16
    Senior Member 32J's Avatar
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    Just setting my hood hinges now. I had interference with the short hinges hitting the radiator support tube. ...Then I realized that earlier in the week I had removed the quick jack bolts for powder coating. Duh! I lifted the front of the body up a little bit, to match where the jack bolts would position the shell, and the interference went away. The hood sits flush. Whew!

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