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Thread: 818 Wiring Harness

  1. #1
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    818 Wiring Harness

    I have been looking for a wiring harness for my 818S. It has a 2.5L Subaru motor (2004). It seems like no-one wants to make a harness for this car. I would love to find a complete harness. Thank you for any help
    Last edited by gkeller; 06-18-2023 at 09:32 AM.

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    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gkeller View Post
    I have been looking for a wiring harness for my 818S. It has a 2.5L Subaru motor (2004). It seems like no-one wants to make a harness for this car. I would love to find a complete harness. Thank you for any help
    Is it an sti or forester xt with a turbo and drive by wire throttle?
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 06-18-2023 at 12:02 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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    Have you tried Wayne at Very Cool Parts? IWire stopped making them, but worth trying to talk them into one more.

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    It is a non turbo, not an STI and not a WPX

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    Anybody have any luck in this department? I'm making progress on my build and beginning to feel like I'd rather not get mired down in the wiring harness if there are any of them still out there to be had...

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    I wire will make you one about $1,600, just call them, but go after market ECU (Haltech) and make your own. It really is easier than you think and you’ll have a much better solution. Basically just follow the wire diagram from Haltech. You can control everything, engine, turn signals, lights everything. And if you have a problem just call they always answer! And they log into your system if needed and work through your system until it’s fixed. Go with the 2500 to make sure you have enough room to wire your car completely. It’ll cost you $500 more but your car will run properly when done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottw View Post
    I wire will make you one about $1,600, just call them, but go after market ECU (Haltech) and make your own. It really is easier than you think and you’ll have a much better solution. Basically just follow the wire diagram from Haltech. You can control everything, engine, turn signals, lights everything. And if you have a problem just call they always answer! And they log into your system if needed and work through your system until it’s fixed. Go with the 2500 to make sure you have enough room to wire your car completely. It’ll cost you $500 more but your car will run properly when done.
    Do you recommend the 2500 or 2500 t ECU?
    Factory Five 818c #456

  8. #8
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    If I had it to do over again I would have gone with an aftermarket ECU and used their wires to make an engine harness, and a Coach-1 system for the rest of the car. I have the coach-1 body harness and love it.

    https://coachcontrols.com/index.php?...roducts_id=123

  9. #9
    Senior Member Hojo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    If I had it to do over again I would have gone with an aftermarket ECU and used their wires to make an engine harness, and a Coach-1 system for the rest of the car. I have the coach-1 body harness and love it.

    https://coachcontrols.com/index.php?...roducts_id=123
    I would check with someone about using an aftermarket ECU. Massachusetts state computer did not recognize my JDM ECU and I had to swap it out for a stock USDM for my initial approval.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hojo View Post
    I would check with someone about using an aftermarket ECU. Massachusetts state computer did not recognize my JDM ECU and I had to swap it out for a stock USDM for my initial approval.
    Good point. Depending on which state you live in an aftermarket ECU might be a no-go.

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    I'm in the process of wiring my engine up with a Haltech elite 2500. There's not enough inputs and outputs by itself to run the whole cars accessories. You'll need the PD16 also. The Nexus R3 or R5 would be a better option. R3 and r5 comes with built in widepand o2 control, so that eliminates an extra cost. R5 could probably do the whole car by itself, it basically has a power distribution unit built in. The r3 does also, but the r5 has tons more. R3 you'd probably end up needing a pd16 also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeNeverwinter View Post
    I'm in the process of wiring my engine up with a Haltech elite 2500. There's not enough inputs and outputs by itself to run the whole cars accessories. You'll need the PD16 also. The Nexus R3 or R5 would be a better option. R3 and r5 comes with built in widepand o2 control, so that eliminates an extra cost. R5 could probably do the whole car by itself, it basically has a power distribution unit built in. The r3 does also, but the r5 has tons more. R3 you'd probably end up needing a pd16 also.
    I've been prepping for an Elite 2500 myself. The R5 is 2x the cost, and I'm not sure it's really needed. I guess it might depend on where you live and the emissions requirements. These are the only signals on the IO expander I found (based upon the plug and play harness Haltech sells for the Subaru)

    Set/Coast
    A/C Middle
    Fuel Level Sensor
    Neutral Position Switch
    Power Steering Oil Level

    Lots of 818s have no AC or cruise control. The fuel level and power steering level aren't really necessary in the ECU. That just leaves the Neutral Position Switch to account for. There are lots of other items in the main IO bundle that are not used on most 818s. Since I've eliminated the TGVs, Fuel Tank Pressure Control, Purge Valves, and Flex Fuel input, I have plenty of spare inputs on the main harness to avoid the IO expander.

    At least I think, since I haven't started yet. Your input as to whether I'm missing something is appreciated.

    Would be wonderful if you started a thread dedicated to the Haltech install so other could follow along.

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    I'll second that suggestion.

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    I forgot I am using DBW for future power goals. So that's why I am out of inputs. I forgot about that

    I wish I had known more about the r3 and r5 before I bought the 2500.

    The R3 and R5 are more than just an ECU. They are power distribution also. I plan to run my two fuel pumps directly off the PD16, so no external fuel pump controller. And the R5 essentially has the pd16 integrated into it. Plus the r3 and r5 have built in wideband. So no.external wideband controller needed also. At the 4295 the r5 isn't that bad. Consider an elite 2500 is 2k, the pd16 is $1200, and a haltech wideband is 380 or more. All that in one box is pretty rad. If you don't plan on running lights etc from the r5, the r3 is the perfect ECU because it can still do 4 high amp outputs for fuel pumps, etc.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeNeverwinter View Post
    I forgot I am using DBW for future power goals. So that's why I am out of inputs. I forgot about that

    I wish I had known more about the r3 and r5 before I bought the 2500.

    The R3 and R5 are more than just an ECU. They are power distribution also. I plan to run my two fuel pumps directly off the PD16, so no external fuel pump controller. And the R5 essentially has the pd16 integrated into it. Plus the r3 and r5 have built in wideband. So no.external wideband controller needed also. At the 4295 the r5 isn't that bad. Consider an elite 2500 is 2k, the pd16 is $1200, and a haltech wideband is 380 or more. All that in one box is pretty rad. If you don't plan on running lights etc from the r5, the r3 is the perfect ECU because it can still do 4 high amp outputs for fuel pumps, etc.
    I’ll start a thread and post my excel IO map and link it here. I still don’t see why the pd16 is needed even with DBW.

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    I am planning on fuel temp/pressure, oil temp /Pressure, a2w intercooler water temp, have 2 maybe three fuel pumps be driven by the PD16, and I can't remember what else. Probably turbo turbine speed because the EFR 7670 can support it anyway. Sure, I f I didn't want to go full nerd with sensors, or just run 12v full time on my surgetank pump, and elite 2500 would be fine. But, I am going full nerd.... in tank pump and surge tank pump for sure. If my power requirements nerd a 3rd pump in the surge tank, then I'll be ready. F. I apologize to the original poster. This thread got hijacked...
    Last edited by DukeNeverwinter; 10-08-2024 at 11:17 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeNeverwinter View Post
    I am planning on fuel temp/pressure, oil temp /Pressure, a2w intercooler water temp, have 2 maybe three fuel pumps be driven by the PD16, and I can't remember what else. Probably turbo turbine speed because the EFR 7670 can support it anyway. Sure, I f I didn't want to go full nerd with sensors, or just run 12v full time on my surgetank pump, and elite 2500 would be fine. But, I am going full nerd.... in tank pump and surge tank pump for sure. If my power requirements nerd a 3rd pump in the surge tank, then I'll be ready. F. I apologize to the original poster. This thread got hijacked...
    Conversation moved to here:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...371#post565371

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