Replacing Oil Pan in Situ

[BrewCityCobra]

So I'm trying to organize a few projects as I get ready for paint and one of my "need to do" projects is to swap out my 7.5" Milodon pan for a 6.5" Aviaid Pan to accommodate the solid engine mounts.

So my question to the group for those who have done this before me is - is this something I can do with the engine in the car? My gut tells me yes but I wanted to confirm before I get too far down the rabbit hole. I wasn't sure if the pickup was a press-fit or something like that.

For a bit of context, the engine is a 427W (BOSS block), I have the Gordon Levy solid mounts, and I do have a lift so getting the car in the air won't be a problem.

Thanks!

-Brew

[Jim1855]

I've done it before, laying on my back but it was a different chassis.

Will the pan pass by the engine mounts? Yes, it's easy. No and you will probably need to lift the engine off of a mount, maybe both. Sorry I don't know how standard mounts work.

I've found that having threaded studs in the corners of the pan as guides really helps. This lets you push the pan into position with one hand and hold it while installing a few bolts. If the corner studs are a few inches long this gives plenty of room to locate the pan and guide it into position.

Jim

[gbranham]

I've done it on a MkIII with both a 302 and a 408; no problem. Easier on a lift, for sure. The oil pickup tube bolts on; no pressure fit.

[phileas_fogg]

The block off plate (not sure if that's the right term) between the back of the engine and the flywheel may give you some troubles; there are some bumpouts that can prove problematic. If you can get the old pan off, then you can get the new pan on (although you may make a helluva mess with the RTV in the process). The plate on my 302 was *just* flexible enough that I was able to pop the old pan out and pop the new pan in.


John

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/john’...enture.637338/

[BornWestUSA]

I just put on a 7 1/2" Moroso pan to replace the 9" Ford racing pan. I used the the Moroso one piece gasket.

The Fel-Pro 5/16" guides that hold the gasket in place are a big help, and I put silicone in the corners to assist in sealing. I was thinking of a system of fishing lines to hold the gasket in place that could be removed before the bolts are torqued... but I thought of this after the fact.

All in all the pan swap is easy, then for good measure I primed the engine before starting.

[CraigS]

I did that a bunch of times so a couple of thoughts. 1- If you run into the problem phileas mentions, loosen the trans to engine bolts about 1/4 inch. Remove the trans mount to A-frame bolts, and slide the trans/block plate back that 1/4". 2- Absolutely get some studs or longer bolts w/ the heads cut off for the guide bolts Jim mentions. 3- I used 4 piece gaskets. I found the one piece silicone gaskets to be too heavy to stay in place while trying to manuever the pan. I found the the individual half moon pieces would stay in position in the perfectly dried grooves in the block w/ just a dab of glue. Then I glued the side pieces to the pan and put an extra bit of glue where the side pieces mate w/ the half moon pieces. I like Permatex Ultra Grey. 4- Once I get the pan in position and all of the bolts just finger tight, I go around and around tightening each bolt 1/2-3/4 turn at a time. I use a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension for this so I have little chance of over tightening the bolts.

[David Williamson]

As Craig said loosen off the the transmission and slide it back about 1/4 inch so the pan will clear the block off plate. All easily done with the engine in place. I used the 1 piece Felpro gasket that comes with locating pins. Put some RTV in the corners and around the crank area. Make sure to remove the pins as soon as the pan is loosly bolted in place, the pins are plastic and can stick and be difficult to remove once the pan is tightly bolted in place.
David W

[BrewCityCobra]

I just put on a 7 1/2" Moroso pan to replace the 9" Ford racing pan. I used the the Moroso one piece gasket.

The Fel-Pro 5/16" guides that hold the gasket in place are a big help, and I put silicone in the corners to assist in sealing. I was thinking of a system of fishing lines to hold the gasket in place that could be removed before the bolts are torqued... but I thought of this after the fact.

All in all the pan swap is easy, then for good measure I primed the engine before starting.

Much appreciated, I currently have the four-piece Fel-Pro gasket as that is what Aviaid suggested. I popped for the guides on a whim but it sounds like that was the right way to go. Thanks!

[BrewCityCobra]

I did that a bunch of times so a couple of thoughts. 1- If you run into the problem phileas mentions, loosen the trans to engine bolts about 1/4 inch. Remove the trans mount to A-frame bolts, and slide the trans/block plate back that 1/4". 2- Absolutely get some studs or longer bolts w/ the heads cut off for the guide bolts Jim mentions. 3- I used 4 piece gaskets. I found the one piece silicone gaskets to be too heavy to stay in place while trying to manuever the pan. I found the the individual half moon pieces would stay in position in the perfectly dried grooves in the block w/ just a dab of glue. Then I glued the side pieces to the pan and put an extra bit of glue where the side pieces mate w/ the half moon pieces. I like Permatex Ultra Grey. 4- Once I get the pan in position and all of the bolts just finger tight, I go around and around tightening each bolt 1/2-3/4 turn at a time. I use a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension for this so I have little chance of over tightening the bolts.

This is great, thanks! This seems to line up with some of the high level items I was thinking about (have the 4-piece and pins already purchased). I'll get the permatex to finish the kit.

-Brew