M22 Cobra Build (MICHIGAN) - Coyote Pedal Dilemma 2.0??

[M22_COBRA]

I spent the weekend putting thermal barrier in the DS foot box. Didn't go too bad. All the other parts that will be installed later in the build are all ready to go.
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I thought it would be best per the recommendation of the forum to get the Coyote pedal installed..... This is where the fun begins. The cutting went fine, I got a little aggressive on the upper ear but not too bad. I may be conservative on the side that nests to the bar on the vehicle inner. Per what others have seen the lower hole lines up, but the upper ear hole is off 3/8", and hitting the shaft, and the inside surface is just touching the inner chassis bar with the circular proud rib. The body is also hitting the foot box pedal cross bar in the front. In the end it very clear the entire thing wants to go up about 1/4". The bracket cant go up without re drilling the fire wall, and the lower (lower is no big deal). The bracket also has no slots (wish they added this) and due to the shape you cant move the upper hole down on bracket more than 1/8" because its into the radius. Dont forget if you too high you cant get the connector on the throttle as the SS master mount will block you.

Sitting here... Trying to figure out the best play.
1. cutting the bar is out.... BAD!
2. Ive see Edward's plate, it has potential but I need some plate stock
3. I could try to slot the hole and cut more off the side at the circular rib
4. Spacers.... not my favorite idea.
5. cut the bracket at the top radius and re weld it a material thickness lower effectively raising the mount and re drilling the lower hole.
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Opinions welcome.

[M22_COBRA]

I sat in front of the foot box for about 3 hours thinking on what to do, I'm sure we have all done it lol. What came to me in the final hour as the best course of action was to redrill the firewall and raise the bracket. I didn't want to eclipse holes so I am going to use a larger 3/16 rivet .25" grip which uses a smaller hole and provides adequate offset to the existing hole. The bracket ended up needing 3/8" vertically. Its trapped by the MC bracket, firewall, inner panel flange and its still bolted to the original hole in the bottom (added new mating hole on the chassis side). I can barely get it out or in position, I don't know how this would fail and come loose on the road. The result is plenty of room & clearance everywhere. I haven't run the pop rivet yet, I will add washers on the backside to take up the extra length.
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The end result seems pretty legit but I haven't run it home yet. Trying to figure if I want to chop the bottom per the instructions and flip or leave it down. Either way under full stroke it has 3/8"-1/2" clearance to the tightest spot on the pedal to the inner panel. The pedal is planar with the edge of the 1"x1" but clear to sheet metal ( I installed the upper to check.) Thoughts on that?
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[M22_COBRA]

Finally ran the throttle pedal home. Happy with the end result, it would be nicer to have a smidge more room but that's just this car from what I understand.
Since then I've been going back and forth adding thermal mat and riveting in panels. Hindsight 20/20 I would have cut the thermal pads before I installed but it's not that bad. I do recommend two tools that help the install of the thermal deadening. #1 Amazon trim tool kit which will be useful for padding and getting sharp and stuffed corners with the carpet.
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#2 is a high heat gun. Mine goes to 800+F and I can dial the heat in to help it conform to an odd corner or stick to a edge.
I also made my own close out panel for the bottom. The gap was just way too big and I was afraid of the structural integrity without it. Is I rolled the mail around the 4" tube and made a right angle. Worked great.
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Still have some more thermal to add in the PS box but the the result was exactly what I was after in the engine Bay. Clean, slightly polished, and sealed nicely.
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