PWM Fan Control

[PNWTim]

Hello - I am curious if anyone is using a PWM fan controller like this on either a Gen 3 or 4 Coyote:

https://www.northernradiator.com/Product/Z18350

This unit provides a low/high on/off as well as variable speed utilization so the fan isn't either off or running 100%. I used this unit previously on a dual Spal setup and it worked great. There was a fairly lengthy thread about 4 years ago discussing a similar option but I haven't found anything more recent:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ny-engine)-115

I also am not sure what fan is being provided by FFR and if it can even accept PWM control for variable speed operation i.e. must be a brushed fan motor.

[Just 1 More]

I'm using it on my '33. Using the 160 sensor and a 160 t-stat. I also switched to a Spal BRUSHED fan. It seems the fan runs constant. I've pondered how a 160 sensor and a 160 t-stat would do anything but make the fan run constant. I'm afraid where I have the PWM sensor is picking up the internal trans cooler fluid temps and not the actual coolant temps
20230730_144938.jpg
20240606_164534.jpg

[Railroad]

Just 1 More,
IMO, you are way off on your switch and thermostat temps.
Maybe you have some unknown logic for those numbers?

[PNWTim]

I'm using it on my '33. Using the 160 sensor and a 160 t-stat. I also switched to a Spal BRUSHED fan. It seems the fan runs constant. I've pondered how a 160 sensor and a 160 t-stat would do anything but make the fan run constant. I'm afraid where I have the PWM sensor is picking up the internal trans cooler fluid temps and not the actual coolant temps
20230730_144938.jpg
20240606_164534.jpg

Curious if it runs constantly at full speed or do you hear variation? You might consider moving it down and to the right of your return flow hose to get a more accurate temp.

[topherchrisb]

I bought one from the auto cool guy as seen in a couple build threads on the forum. I'm not sure he is a vendor on the forum so I won't post a link to the site. The site is a little lack luster and the products have changed since I placed my order. I don't have my engine yet so I haven't tested it in full functional mode but I have tested it in the car with the events I need to test it. I got an 85amp (which I don't see on the site anymore) and a buzz box. It has a dial controlled trigger, a failsafe trigger and an AC full output trigger. It works as advertised.. but it still buzzes quite a bit with the buzz box connected. The buzz will be not be audible when the engine is running I would think though. I can't say I give a full stamp of approval till I get to the point the fan is actually cooling an engine. You can see it on the drivers F panel on the below post on my build thread. I haven't updated the thread in a bit... but all I've done since is none sexy things like heat sound treatment and barely starting carpet install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post565843

[mrglaeser]

I have used on other vehicles controllers from this company http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm. One has been on my 69 Mustang for 8 years. It looks like their offerings have changed but they have a 45amp and 70amp version. They come with a sensor you put between the radiator fins but can fine tune via a set screw the temp setting. What I like about them is that they vary the fan speed based on temperature, have soft start to keep initial amp load lower, and run for a minute after the car is shut down, they are pretty small in size, and easy to wire. They also now have other controllers for dual speed fans as well.

That all said it is a one man shop. He doesn't offer a lot of support between order and shipping but for me answered questions on wiring and operation promptly after I received my controller. So some people are put off that they don't know when they will get the controller and don't get quick responses when they ask when it will come. Just be aware it may take a while to get. The owner of this company actually sold the designs that Derale uses in some of their products.

I do have one for my Roadster. Here is a photo with it installed on the Breeze fan shroud.



Here is the post that originally got me looking at the controllers from 2009 so these have been around a while.
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/thr...eviews.489822/

[Just 1 More]

Just 1 More,
IMO, you are way off on your switch and thermostat temps.
Maybe you have some unknown logic for those numbers?

What switch are you referring to?

[topherchrisb]

I should have been more clear after reading mrglaeser's reply. The way I wired it up and the behavior of the auto cool guy is similar to what he's describing. I plan on hooking the coyote fan trigger to the fail safe input on the controller. The controller comes with it's own sensor that varies resistance based on heat. So the idea is the controller speeds up as it gets hotter with the intention of finding a sweet spot where it stays cool with minimal fan speed. I also needed to fill a spot in my button panel so I added a fan manual override button and tied it into the AC trigger on the controller.

[Railroad]

What switch are you referring to?

If you have a 160* thermostat, that is one and 160* temp fan switch that one also.
My question is why have the thermostat open at 160*. That is at a minimum 20* below most normal engine run temps. I would think something between 180 and 190 would be closer to normal.
The fan temp switch is set to 160*. This means the fan will come on at 160* and run till it lowers the coolant to below 160*. I do not see that ever happening, while the vehicle is being operated.
I may be missing something, or a lot.
I am interested in the 160* choices and what temp your engine coolant shows on the gauge.
Not attacking you at all, just very curious.

[Just 1 More]

What switch are you referring to?

If you have a 160* thermostat, that is one and 160* temp fan switch that one also.
My question is why have the thermostat open at 160*. That is at a minimum 20* below most normal engine run temps. I would think something between 180 and 190 would be closer to normal.
The fan temp switch is set to 160*. This means the fan will come on at 160* and run till it lowers the coolant to below 160*. I do not see that ever happening, while the vehicle is being operated.
I may be missing something, or a lot.
I am interested in the 160* choices and what temp your engine coolant shows on the gauge.
Not attacking you at all, just very curious.

No worries... I've had this same exact though several times. From what I understand, The 160 t-stat and 160 PWM controller are supposed to work together. I questioned this myself. I think It has to do with the placement of the sensor at the lower part of the radiator where the coolant is supposed to be cooler. I have a 180 sensor that I did try once with the 160 t-stat but I think I need to try it again.

[dstelter]

i am also running a controller from the "AutoCoolGuy". Been pretty happy with it. Went with the non-buzz NB-100 controller. I also have a "fail safe" switch just incase. Doug

[Lidodrip]

i am also running a controller from the "AutoCoolGuy". Been pretty happy with it. Went with the non-buzz NB-100 controller. I also have a "fail safe" switch just incase. Doug

+1 on the AutoCoolGuy - has worked very well. I also have a bypass switch installed.



James

[PNWTim]

I bought one from the auto cool guy as seen in a couple build threads on the forum. I'm not sure he is a vendor on the forum so I won't post a link to the site. The site is a little lack luster and the products have changed since I placed my order. I don't have my engine yet so I haven't tested it in full functional mode but I have tested it in the car with the events I need to test it. I got an 85amp (which I don't see on the site anymore) and a buzz box. It has a dial controlled trigger, a failsafe trigger and an AC full output trigger. It works as advertised.. but it still buzzes quite a bit with the buzz box connected. The buzz will be not be audible when the engine is running I would think though. I can't say I give a full stamp of approval till I get to the point the fan is actually cooling an engine. You can see it on the drivers F panel on the below post on my build thread. I haven't updated the thread in a bit... but all I've done since is none sexy things like heat sound treatment and barely starting carpet install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post565843

Thanks for the feedback. Curious if you looked at others and chose this over them? The unit I mentioned in my initial post is quite a bit smaller with internal logic and no switches so a bit simpler. But it does only worked with brushed fans so that is a limiter.

[PNWTim]

I have used on other vehicles controllers from this company http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm. One has been on my 69 Mustang for 8 years. It looks like their offerings have changed but they have a 45amp and 70amp version. They come with a sensor you put between the radiator fins but can fine tune via a set screw the temp setting. What I like about them is that they vary the fan speed based on temperature, have soft start to keep initial amp load lower, and run for a minute after the car is shut down, they are pretty small in size, and easy to wire. They also now have other controllers for dual speed fans as well.

That all said it is a one man shop. He doesn't offer a lot of support between order and shipping but for me answered questions on wiring and operation promptly after I received my controller. So some people are put off that they don't know when they will get the controller and don't get quick responses when they ask when it will come. Just be aware it may take a while to get. The owner of this company actually sold the designs that Derale uses in some of their products.

I do have one for my Roadster. Here is a photo with it installed on the Breeze fan shroud.



Here is the post that originally got me looking at the controllers from 2009 so these have been around a while.
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/thr...eviews.489822/

This looks and operates very similar to what I had in mind. It looks like you are running it on a non-computerized engine so I am assuming the set up is straight forward. I will have the Coyote controller and the trinary switch to contend with so a little more complex.

[Lidodrip]

I initially installed the Maradyne unit and it literally went up in smoke not long after (potentiometer was bad). I found several other brands, but they all seemed to be clones of the Maradyne controller. The AutoCool controller is on the larger size for sure, but it appears to be very well made and has better functionality. It does not require any switches to run, however, there is the option to add an override switch if you want. There is a control knob on the unit that allows you to adjust the temperature set point for when you want the fan to start. Once set, there is no need to adjust again.

James

[Lidodrip]

I would also add that I bought the No-Buzz model (NB50) and there is no buzzing noise (I am using the standard FFR fan with a Gen2 Coyote)

James