BluePrint Engines

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  1
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: My Donor Car

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like

    My Donor Car

    Well.. The process of building a Factory Five car has begun. I'm not sure my wife understands what I'm trying to do (though she is incredibly tolerant of me and deserves a new piece of jewelry). My kids just think of this as a fun project.

    I've attached a picture of my donor car. It's a 1999 Ford Explorer 5.0L. I bought it at a Copart auction for $350, excluding taxes and fees. I have a daily commute of about 40 miles total each day. So my plan was to drive it for the next 6 months while I get ready to purchase and receive my kit, as well as all the planning I need/want to do.

    I took the donor car down to my local Firestone Auto and asked them to give it a complete inspection and report back. Amazingly, the car is in really good condition to have 262,000 miles on it. Here are some the major quirks:
    1. rear main seal leak, seems normal and expected considering the mileage
    2. front seal leak on the differential, ditto #1
    3. differential cover leak, ditto #1


    Here's my plan for the next 6 months:
    1. Drive her daily for the next 6 months
    2. Figure out the differential/rear end. This Ford Explorer read end has 3.73 gearing, 8.8 " spacing. I'm hoping to use it for my kit
    3. Engine (Plan to rebuild it myself as I've always wanted to do this)
      • target specs after rebuild - 300-350 HP, 350+ (ft-lb) torque ?
      • locally who is going to do my engine machine work (those folks are starting to retire and the market demand is just not what it once was)
      • what transmission am I going to use
      • plan to use an Isky cam
      • refresh the GT40P heads w/ some light porting work, roller lifters, valve spring upgrades
      • replace all the bearings internally
      • hope that I don't have cylinder work to be done, won't know until I open up the engine
    4. Need to get the garage ready for all the boxes I'll need to keep


    One of the best things I've done is pay $20 to someone on EBay and purchased the Ford Service Manual. It provides ALL the details, i.e. torque specs, how to remove the engine, how to rebuild the engine, etc. Simply awesome.

    I'm open to comments, suggestions or things to avoid, so let me know what you think.

    -brad w.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,863
    Post Thanks / Like
    Welcome! The Explorer rear end won’t work but the engine long block can be used.

    Jeff

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Welcome! The Explorer rear end won’t work but the engine long block can be used.

    Jeff
    What's the issue with the Explorer read end? Is it because the center section is offset?
    Last edited by Brad.Walker; 02-02-2025 at 02:11 AM.

  4. #4
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,863
    Post Thanks / Like
    That, the overall width and the lack of the proper control arm mounts.

    Jeff

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    That, the overall width and the lack of the proper control arm mounts.

    Jeff
    Thanks for the insight. I'm having a real difficult time finding details and references to things like "overall width" and etc..

  6. #6
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Lilburn, GA
    Posts
    794
    Post Thanks / Like
    Rear end widths. You want the 59.5" width if possible.
    Mustang 8.8 (ring gear size) Rear End widths per year
    1987-1993 - 59.5" Width
    1994-1998 - 60.8" Width
    1999-2004 - 61.25" Width
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-02-2025 at 11:57 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    OH,KY,WV tri-state area
    Posts
    188
    Post Thanks / Like
    Like the other mentioned that axle housing won't fit the FFR car. However. Keep the axle gears and carrier (Part the ring gear bolts to) THey fit other 8.8s Most all OEM mustang axles Did NOT come with a 373 gears but usually 2.73 or 3.08

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    75
    Post Thanks / Like
    When selecting headers to use be aware the GT40P has a different spark plug angle than GT40's or E7's. You can usually get by with 90 degree plug wire terminals and/or shorter "header plugs". Not that big of a deal but just something to keep in mind...

    Also, with 262,000 miles the rear seal surface of the crank probably has a groove worn in it from the rear main seal. You can get a repair sleeve from Fel-Pro, IRRC... You can buy the installation tool for the sleeve or have the machine shop install it when they check the crank. Again, not that big of a deal but something to be aware of...

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Norton, MA USA earth
    Posts
    3,521
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sell it when your ready to build and use the money towards a new engine.
    Mike

  10. Likes JeffP liked this post

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

FFMetal

Visit our community sponsor