Can anyone help?
The manual is not clear on the orientation of the Inertia switch as to how it is placed.
My logic says it should be fitted with the red button pointing directly to the ground or can it be fitted at an angle?
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Can anyone help?
The manual is not clear on the orientation of the Inertia switch as to how it is placed.
My logic says it should be fitted with the red button pointing directly to the ground or can it be fitted at an angle?
In all the cars that I've driven, the re-set button is on top.
Ray
I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....
“Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
-- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue
Ray
If I think about it pointing skyward I wonder if it is not defeating the object of of the switch.When you push the button inward it seems tore-engage the ball by magnet.
The design I think dislodges the ball if there is a sudden stop.To reset it if it dislodges incorrectly one seems to push the ball back to rejoin the magnet.
If it could just fall back into place without it being re-set by hand it would defeat the object of the switch.
I don't know and I want to be sure I fit it properly.
Ron -U are correct I have just found it in a Ron Francis manual where it clearly says point upwards.
Thanks for your help
Time to change mine! I pointed the button down! I thought that was how it worked! If you need to reset it, how to you reach it if it's on the top?
They say either straight up or straight down, either way, just not sideways.
FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
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If you are NOT using fuel injection nor an electric fuel pump, is there a need for this switch?
FFR HR #530
Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,
My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/
If you were in an accident would you not want the fuel pump and car to shut off?
I am running a manual pump off of the engine.
FFR HR #530
Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,
My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/
It sounds like the inertia switch is not needed if your running a mechanical pump off the motor. Can the switch be cut out? If so do you need to splice the 2 wires together? Thanks!
The inertia switch is attached to a relay that powers the electric fuel pump circuit. No electric fuel pump, no need for the switch. On my Mk4 build I cut out the switch and tied the two leads together. Then I had a nice relay switched circuit that I used for the 12V aux outlets under my dash. Note I also removed the fuel pump leg from the rear harness. I didn't want it flopping around back there on top of the fuel tank. I could have just tied it to one of the other wires, but chose to remove it.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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