After several orders to BelMetric to order various nuts and bolts, each time paying another shipping fee, I thought it might help future builders if we kept a list of additional metric hardware that we used in our builds. I won't rant about how all the hardware in this kit should be metric to begin with, but I am including in this list hardware that I used to replace non metric items provided by FFR. Here's what I've needed so far:

For the front spindle upper bracket bolt (replacing the donor CAM bolt):
(2x) M16x1.5x60 Hex Bolt (Wish it was a flange bolt but couldn't find one)
(2x) M16 Flat Washer (Not necessary if flange bolt was available)
(2x) M16 Flange Nut

If you break the front spindle lower ball joint pinch bolts and need to drill them out, then these are good replacements:
(2x) M10x1.25x60 Flange Bolt
(2x) M10x1.25 Flange Nut

To replace the 5/16"X1" button head screws for mounting the pedal assembly to the firewall (Note... Later frames may mount the pedal assembly differently??)
(4x) M8x25 Button Head Stainless Screw
(4x) M8 Nylock Stainless Flange Nut

To mount the clutch master cylinder to the pedal assembly studs that stick through the firewall:
(2x) M8 Nylock Stainless Flange Nut

Mounting the brake master cylinder is problematic. I wanted the master cylinder to sit vertical, using M8 stainless studs coming out through the firewall and secured with M8 Nylock Flange Nuts on the outside. There is too much pedal bracketry over the drivers side mounting hole to drill through the pedal assembly if you want the master cylinder to be vertical. I countersunk the chassis from the inside, then tapped a hole for an M8 Flathead screw, then threaded the flathead screw into the tapped hole from the inside and added thread locker to the head. Then I bolted the pedal assembly over top of the flathead screw. You can drill a hole clean through the chassis and pedal assembly on the passenger side but you need to grind off part of the button head to load the bolt through from the inside. Now there is a vendor making a mounting adapter plate which is probably easier than the above method. I used the hardware below:

(1x) M8x40 Button Head Stainless Screw (The head needs to be ground down for clearance. This bolt loads from the inside.)
(1x) M8x40 Flathead Stainless Screw (Countersink and tap the chassis from the inside, load from the inside, then bolt the pedal assembly over it.)
(2x) M8 Nylock Stainless Nut (on the outside bolting the master cylinder onto the firewall)

To mount the front lower control arm rear bushing using the donor M14x1.5 Flange Bolts;
(4x) M14x1.5 flange Nuts (I have not found a source for these yet)


Jeff