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Thread: Clutch Fork Adjustment Problem

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  1. #1
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Clutch Fork Adjustment Problem

    I have 427w with a QuickTime 6065 bell housing, Ram HDX series clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing package, and a standard Ford clutch fork. As far as I know, I have the standard 157 tooth flywheel.

    While putting the clutch assembly together with the bell housing and engine, I ended up with the clutch fork near mid way in the bell housing window. At that position, I'm afraid that I will not have enough forward movement on the fork arm to disengage the clutch fully. I backed out the fork ball stud as far as it would go (backing it out of the bell housing boss, moves the stud forward in relation to the motor/car), to where it was only in the boss by about 4 threads. In addition, the pivot end of the fork was only about 1/10" or so from contacting the pressure plate housing. So the stud was as far out as it would go and the fork arm was still only slightly back from midway in the bell housing window.

    IMG_0828 small.jpgIMG_0829 small.jpg

    After talking to the Ram tech folks, we decided a taller throw out bearing would move the fork arm rearward. I got the new bearing, and indeed, with the pivot ball stud adjusted to a more reasonable setting, the clutch arm was in a more rearward location in the housing window, now with about 5/8" clearance between the fork arm and the rear edge of the window.

    IMG_0831 small.jpg

    However, I noticed that the collar on the new, deeper bearing was smaller (smaller radius), and the fork could slide sideways on the bearing, to where at it's limit, is just about to fall off the shoulder of the bearing collar. Ram says it's OK, but with even the slightest wear on the fork and/or collar, it is going to fall off the surface, get twisted, and wedge itself sideways. There is nothing to keep the fork centered on the bearing collar, so eventually, or immediately, it is going to start to move sideways off that collar.

    IMG_0827 small.jpg

    So the deeper bearing, even though that solved the initial problem, brought up another. My next thought is that maybe I have the wrong fork arm. From the pic, you can see that it bends forward.

    IMG_0830 small.jpg

    Bottom line:
    Any one run into this problem?
    Do they make a different, taller bearing with the wider collar?
    Is there a fork that is not canted /bent forward like the one I have?

    I have been fighting with this one for 3 weeks now. I should have come to the experts (you all) sooner, and save 50 miles driving around, and a few hours on the phone.

    Whew... That was a mouthful. Appreciate your help.
    Last edited by boat737; 10-17-2016 at 06:53 PM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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