Hi all, first post here. First of all I'd like to thank the countless people on this forum that have created detailed build logs, and documented their work so well. It's because of all this amazing content that I've been able to lurk and avoid creating an account here for many months :-)

I've got an older 818s kit that I bought from someone who originally purchased in 2014 or so, it's got the older style fuel tank/firewall (don't think this changes anything wiring-wise but mentioning just in case.) They hadn't started work on it, so this is essentially a new build, most of the car was packaged as they bought it from FFR. Most of my donor parts are from a 2007 WRX, but it was all purchased years ago by the person I bought this kit from, so tracking anything down from that car is probably close to impossible now.

I've got it built up to rolling chassis and am well underway into the wiring. I am using the Subaru harness, de-loomed and dieted to the best of my ability/confidence. I followed several of the excellent threads around here, along with a 2006 (question on this later) full schematic for wire dieting before attempting to cram it into the car.

My questions:

1. I am worried this question is going to turn into a major headache. The donor parts I got, I am not convinced the key/column matches the ECU/immobilizer. The key is a very cheap/generic looking copied key, not an original Subaru key. I have my harness 90% wired up, enough to hook up the battery, turn the key and the gauge cluster lights up. DBW throttle works (sounds a little buzzy though, maybe this deserves a separate thread/question), relays click, etc. But the "Security" light blinks at first then stays on, and its behavior is no different whether or not I have the immobilizer actually plugged in, which is what concerns me. Is there any way for me to definitively tell if my key/immobilizer/ECU match? The engine I purchased is a bit of a mess, and pretty far from being able to try and start it, so I can't just try it yet. Any paths forward if they don't match, or am I doomed to drop $1500 and redo a bunch of wiring for a standalone ECU, or find a matched ECU set online? I've heard Subaru won't generally re-match immobilizers for these kits.


2. I have a full manual for a 2006 WRX I am using to reference wiring. I'm finding some slight discrepancies, but for the most part it's been useful. I found this manual through searching in this forum, it was on someone's personal blog website (forgetting exactly where) but I remember there was only a 2006, not a 2007. Is there a 2007 manual I should grab, or is this good enough?


3. Can the entire secondary air/AC relay fuse box be removed (F129)? This is the one where the large 2-pin connector for the secondary air pump terminates to. It's got some big wires and arranging the wires neatly would be a lot easier if I can cut the big wires back to wherever they terminate. I do not plan to have A/C (already deleted a lot of the A/C stuff that goes up near the dash), and plan to delete with blocker plates the secondary air pump system. I was originally pretty confident that it could be deleted, but when I started tracing wires into the harness, I saw that some wires branched into many other places, and coupled with my uncertainty on my 2006 wiring diagram being 100% correct to my 2007 harness, I wanted to make sure something else wasn't grabbing power from any of the relays or fuses there.


For reference, this is what the car currently looks like, and what the gauge cluster looks like with the key on (security light stays solid, stops blinking after a little bit)

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