The Coupe got it first, only fair it has been around a while and it need some fixes.
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The Coupe got it first, only fair it has been around a while and it need some fixes.
It still is pretty early in the life cycle of the '33 to expect upgrades. I would say that the FFR Engineers have been quite busy as of late and still will be busy with the current projects.
But that aside, what sort of upgrades would you suggest?
Olli
Mark III 4630RD Explorer 302, Holley SA570, FRPP B-cam, 4 to 4's, 3 Link, Bullitt wheels, Baer Brakes, 3.73 gears, HD T-5, I2 wiring, Koni Coilovers, Classic Gauges. Jaguar Racing Green w/ Silver stripes
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I agree. That would be a nice upgrade.
Olli
Areas that I would like to see upgraded;
fuel tank, hood hinge, seat mounting area modified as the Mark IV roadster,
Olli
I can't resist adding some items.
Firewall flex fix for manuals with clutch cables.
A smoother body.
Better doors with manual windows.
A grille that is actually straight.
Boots for the upper ball joints that actually work and look good.
Drop the fuel lines, fittings, and coolant overflow that nobody (almost) uses.
Make the back window for the hard top slightly bigger.
I was going to say a 2 to 3 height options on the hard top until I read "geoffav's last ask. Still, some people would like to see an "extreme" option and have the roof as low as...
I'm not that far along in my build, but I'd like the parts to be closer to expected tolerances. Take the steering shaft as an example. There are CAD drawings on page 85 of my manual, v1i, that show the length of each shaft. But the shafts that came with my kit aren't anywhere close to those dimensions. So the answer is to cut them down to the right size. But why? If the prescribed length of the upper shaft is 11.4375", why is it shipped as 12.5" long?
And reading a lot more threads on this and another forum, this isn't the only instance where on-site modification is required. I'm very new at this and don't have one-tenth of the expertise the rest of you have (actually no expertise, just a desire to learn), and I know that it is after all, a component car, but I didn't expect to do a lot of "fabricating" nor buy replacements for parts that came with the kit and are suppose to work, but don't in actual practice, e.g., fuel tank based on other threads, not actual experience.
So my hope is that things will be easier on the next guy to build this great car and that when they install their steering shafts, they just go together without modification.
The plan has been a bit different on the Hot Rod and there wont be a Mk2 version (at least not in the next two years or so). The guys have taken a different path, which is part by part changes and slow mods, focusing on the obvious things first and then new designs. We built a Hot Rod with Hot Rod Magazine, We did this again with Speed Channels "Two Guys Garage". Most of the changes are really coming from Tasca's program since they cannot be slowed down by secondary ops and parts that need modifications. Bottom line is that we've been making in-process changes and upgrades to the car as we go and need to do a better job communicating those changes.
Tim, if you have a second, call Andy in Tech as he is most knowledgable with the changes and can help you as you go. Thanks for the feedback.
Dave Smith
Dave Smith, FFR 001
President
Factory Five Racing
Dave, thanks for the quick response. I'll call Andy on Monday. I was very impressed with Andy's knowledge when I met him at your facility, almost a year ago (actually March 13, 2010). I was doubly impressed when you were helping a couple of other customers and came to sit down with Andy and run a couple of your ideas by him before passing on your thoughts to those customers. Andy has been a great go-to guy, and with my lack of experience and knowledge, a definite asset.
Tim, There are numerous parts used accross the FFR product line. If the parts were cut to size, they would have to recieve a part number for each size and that would complicate the inventory process. With the 33 there are two options already available (electric vs standard steering) and the shafts need to be a different length. It is far easier for a company to buy a component and use it in several designes than to cary multiple inventory items.
Doug
The inventory issue is a good point but i have to agree with Tim. I was shocked to find that I had to remove all most all the nickel plating on the shaft just to make it fit. That is purely and simply a QC issue. In my kit, one end of the same shaft fit and the other didnt....
I just spent almost the whole day yesterday to get the trans cover to fit. Not what I expected when i bought the kit. Most importantly though is that i am enjoying it. Not looking forward to doors though...
Thanks for the explanation Doug. That makes perfect sense. I just expect the manual to point out that you need to cut down the upper steering shaft to X" instead of making the builder think that you can install the upper steering shaft as delivered. A little better guidance would help this rookie. Maybe version 1M of the manual will address this issue.
Again the two forums are lifesavers for me, as well as those who have taken the time to answer PMs sent out for help and advice.
I remember when I cut mine way back when I was told that was not required. I had 3 different length shafts but they were not right????? They would have been close to perfect if the universals used would have not changed. The universal joints included now (I think) allow more angle than the ones I saw in the original manual. They are also longer as I recall which caused the shafts to be too long.
Now you would think at some point we would run out of the long dd shafts and they could ship shafts that work right out of the box.
Maybe they should just ship a 3' length and they can be cut as needed.