Nice job on the shifter. Your location is much better IMO.
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Thanks Wallace. Hows the 818 coming. I will have to check it out on that forum.
Today we just installed a few items... Carb, starter, driveshaft and made a few cuts to the tunnel for the shifter. Also refit the flooring after the lizard skin.
Why is it everything seems to take me so much longer than most.... Oh boy.
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Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Following a page from oldfartracing with the lokar throttle cable and hitech kickdown cable for aod trans. Not many options with that combo and a holley carb.
I bought one of TimW's gas pedal pads that match the brake, but cant use it with my gas pedal... No biggy. Also have his mechanical throttle linkage, but with aod trans the kick down requires the use of lokar throttle hardware to keep ratio 1 to 1... And such a nice piece it is. That said the lokar cable is a snap and i would recommend it over the FFR set up.
The Kootenai floor pan is sure nice to mount the pedal and dimmer switch to. Still have to find a way to support it from behind though.
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Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Looks great Nick. I have the same floor plan inserts from Tim. Have you considered mounting that dimmer switch BEHIND the Kootenai plate? ERIC
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
On the dimmer switch, since floor real estate is such a premium, have you looked at one of the push button switches that are on the tilt arm for the column? I bought one and while not completely wired in yet, I am liking it.
FFR HR #530
Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,
My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/
Kraftee, yes i did think about going behind but i wanted the switch to hit the frame rail for support and keep it over to left. You can see the right mount bolt is in line with the diagonal member. Once the fat mat, underpad and carpet go down, the switch will be flush
Maczter, I had considered the column set up from Ron Francis at one point, but that was before i went with the ISIS wiring which made this an easy wiring thing and I do like the simplicity and old school feel of a switch on the floor.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Had time today as our Thanksgiving gathering is tomorrow at our sons house. Was able to finish the fuel system by installing the regulator and dual feed, also got the coil mounted. Seems the small jobs take a lot of time and thinking. Very good for the soul. Nothing like puttering around the garage. I have a lot to be thankful for!
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Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Nick
Those fuel line clamps are nice, what brand are those?
DB
Billet Specialties
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...5510/overview/
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
image.jpg Ok I give... What did i do wrong.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
When I mounted my regulator right to the firewall with its bracket the round gauge hit the firewall. I had to shim it out with washers about 1/8" for it to clear. Yours may not hit depending on the diameter of your gauge.
33045.jpg
They are mounted differently. Wallace mounted his on the left side (looking at the firewall) directly into the port, and Nick mounted his on a T (looks like) off the right side of the regulator, pointing forward. I don't see any clearance issues with it.
The pic Wallace commented about didn't have the gauge installed yet.
Here it is installed.
Last edited by jayguy; 10-14-2013 at 02:11 PM.
Yes. Thank you. Thought i messed up somewhere.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Happy Thanksgiving day! It is the same as our Columbus day here in the states so it feels strange to hear about Thanksgiving in October. You are doing a great job and the time spent with your grandson could not be better utilized. I am also building a hot rod with my grandson who will be 13 in November.
With Tony Zullo and Dave Smith at SEMA. Both perfect gentlemen and easy to talk to. Never met anyone at FFR before.... Being Canadian only ever dealt with Al Beix her in Canada At Western Canada Cobras and with Jeff Collins at Whitby Motorcars and even then only by phone email etc.
Was nice getting a handshake and some information from these guys! Maybe silly but it made my short trip to Vegas seem a little more worthwhile.
Last edited by hdnik; 11-08-2013 at 07:44 AM.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Back to work. The plan is to start at the front and go to the rear and button everything up so I can fire this thing in the next few weeks.
A job I had not been looking forward to was the rad/condenser/grill. Other than time consuming ( took me better part of a Saturday ) all went well.
Just took my time and followed instructions trying all the while to remember which way is up and front and left and right.
I had purchased one of Mike Eversons fan shrouds and remembered reading that the fan would fit in front of it. I think it was a post or a note from Dan Ruth... So I thought I'd give it a go to keep the fan tight to the rad core. Used both the stock install bars as well as the parts that came with the shroud and it all fit great.
Also noticed the the grill is already relief cut for the condenser... Nice addition to the kit.
Last edited by hdnik; 11-17-2013 at 10:30 AM.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Don't want to be a downer, but I really don't think it's a good idea to mount your fan inside the shroud. Your effectively blocking off the four corners of the radiator and there is no way for the air to flow out. The whole point of the shroud is to allow the fan to pull air across the whole area of the radiator, not just the center. The only way that works correctly is to mount the fan on the outside of the shroud. If there is no room to do this, then I would loose the shroud.
I have to agree with Arrowhead. You really need to take advantage of all the radiator surface area you've got! I used one of Mike's shrouds too and mounting the fan inside was very tempting. It looks very clean and with the condenser mounted on the front of the radiator, and the fan mounted OUTSIDE the shroud on the back, the whole package becomes quite wide. In fact, when installed on my car, the top shock mounts just barely touch the plastic fan cover with the suspension at full extension. It shouldn't be a problem, but if that package were a half-inch wider, it wouldn't work!
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Say no more gents. I will conform to the instructions. You are all probably correct! Thank you for input! No big deal really, just too smart for my own britches!
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
If I could ask those that have used this shroud... Is there a need for any type of seal around the edges in order to achieve maximum negative pressure across the entire surface of the rad? If so what might I use. I'd be reluctant to use any typ of foam tape for fear of it becoming a sticky mess with the heat.
Thoughts?
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
I think the rubber "U" channel will be a great means of preventing metal on metal erosion from potential vibration. I could see a hole developing in the radiator in a fairly short period of time if there is any metal to metal contact between the shroud and the radiator. More great engineering that I will use in building my car. Thanks.
Barrel, where would one buy that u channel in smaller quantities?
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
I get most automotive rubber products from Clark Rubber in Australia. They sell over the counter by the metre. Their web site will at least give you what is available and perhaps may help with ordering similar products in Canada by description and profile. You can try; www.clarkrubber.com.au
Ok we have the cooling system buttoned up. I swear it takes me longer than you all to do stuff.
Anyway on everyone's generous and accurate advice i move the fan to the outside of the shroud. No problem still fits fine. Also used Mike Everson's hose kit. I will dress them up later, I just am not a fan of the corrugated stainless hose that F5 supplies. As a temporary measure I made a heater bypass hose to fire engine as AC unit will go in later. Finally, to eliminate possible metal on metal rubbing between shroud and rad, I just used some door edge moulding. It fits snuggly and should do the trick.
Id post pics however it seems the system wont allow me to for some reason
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Another job that was concerning me went very well despite my fears. Bleeding brake lines! First I bench bled the master from whitby's power brake set up... Went well once everything was tight enough. It took two laps of the car to get a nice firm pedal. No leaks... All is well!
All I have left to do is make some tranny cooler lines, install the trans pan and rear diff cover to get all fluids in it... Then it's wire it and fire it!
Last edited by hdnik; 12-13-2013 at 07:42 AM.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Making read for wiring the ISIS power package. Just laying out everything and thinking it through.
Attachment 24226
I will start with the largest gauge stiff first all the power and grounds and move around the car. Had to make some jumpers for the Jblock mega fuses
Attachment 24227
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Last of the lines are completed... Trans lines proved a little fussier than I thought to route them nicely.
Need some suggestions. For thos with AC and heat. Where did you mount your coolant overflow resevoirs. Not much room on my passenger side firewall with fuel lines coming up there and with p brakes no room on driver side.
Also my rads over flow outlet is pointing out on driver side. My though was to fab a new bracket and mount beside rad forward of where it would normally go.
If all goes well we will fire it this weekend coming.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Nick.........Enjoying this build thread greatly. Your attention to detail is fantastic and this is going to be a fabulous car when finished.
I am a keen amateur photographer and would love to get into photographing Hot-Rods more. If you would like some nice "arty" pictures of your car when finished, I would be glad to oblige. I'm in Toronto, so not too far away.
Here's one I took of a well-known Ontario car.
Much appreciated comments. You wonder sometimes if the details get through on these forums. If all goes well it would still be summer before I get this to paint and interior, but stay tuned! And yes I'd quite interested in glam shots when it's done!
check out my blog if you haven't already.
thanks again.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
I checked your blog (again) and noticed that you're a licence plate freak like myself...........My Cadillac was CADILIKE and our Kia Soul we have now is MYSOULM8.
When I was working on my Dream project design http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...13080-33-Dream thoughts about the Ontario front licence plate requirement entered my head. It's awkward when you're not running a front bumper and the plain simple fact is if you mount a plate dead-centre on the grille it's going to look awful and totally detract from the beauty of its design.
I've come up with this design. Not having a 33 here to take dimensions off it's possibly proportionately inaccurate, but you'll get the idea. It could be water-jetted out for a clean finish in Aluminium and the bend put in by a brake. I think leaning the plate backward at the same angle as the grille would look "right". Powder coat it black and it would virtually disappear. Obviously, this design can be flipped to mount the plate either side of the car and the part that goes under the nose would provide a little skid protection to the nose underside glass-fibre. This area might need bending a little to conform to the underside of the nose.
We may not like having to clutter up the front ends of our cars, but the law's the law.
On our Soul I use a square section black plate surround with hidden screws from Walmart of all places It visually shrinks the overall size of the plate.
I have a cool Ontario plate all figured out for my 33 project..........it's available, but I'm keeping it a secret
Last edited by MT-ED; 01-23-2014 at 10:18 AM.
Love it. Great idea. I am definitely going to copy this. It can serve as a Keel for protection and a plate support.... Nice! Maybe aluminum rather than powder? Had been thinking of a hideaway plate but they seem too deep to me and would be just as noticeable. Also have to mold something cool into the rear valence... not a fan of the std. plate set up there either, but that has many options and needs some more thought.
You can order the plate now. Affix it to the car later. I got lucky on 33HOTROD... I thought sure it'd be gone.
Stay Tuned! Thanks again for the idea's. Great!! Don't be surprised if you see this somewhere else (Hey Tim Whittaker (Kootenai Valley) are you seeing this?)
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Yes, I could order the plate..........but I'm in no position at present to build my Dream '33 unfortunately.
As I was drawing that plate mount it occurred to me that one of the FF cottage-industry guys might pick up on it and make money out of it. I don't have a problem with that, just give me credit guys It would solve a problem that presents itself to builders from several Provinces and States. Hideaway mounts work on the back of rods, but you'd need some pretty fancy linkage set up to hide one under the nose of a '33 without drastically reducing ground clearance as it operated...........plus it would then detract from the visual impact while you're driving.
Yesterday I watched ZZ-Top's "Gimme All Your Lovin'" and the start of "The California Kid". You just can't clutter up that grille V shape. It just looks so wicked as the car approaches a viewer and visually lowers the car as it draws the eye downward.
Last edited by MT-ED; 01-24-2014 at 08:50 AM.
A productive day yesterday. All lines done and clamped. All fluids installed. Overflow res figured out. And heat shield for mufflers done. I went a different way with that. The aluminum has all been sprayed with lizard skin sound as well as ceramic heat control. I cut the heat reflector material to fit within the frame members around the mufflers and then used the heat tape to close off the fiberous edges. It will sit on between the frame and floor when riveted. As it sticks well to the aluminum, it should work nicely.
Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
Factory Five Forums - hdnik
FFCars - lowntubd
Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com
Its looking awesome Nick, very nice quality build. Love it.