Did you buy the 10' section or the 50' roll?
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Did you buy the 10' section or the 50' roll?
How much of the ez cool did you use sq ft?
Xusia,
I bought the 10ft roll and that should be plenty for what I plan on using it for. 50ft would be a ton of this stuff!
Fireblade,
I think each half used about a 23in x 23.5 in square and then I trimmed as required. Roughly 8 sq ft. total.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
How are you guys passing the throttle cable through the firewall? Manual says to drill a 1/4 in hole through the firewall and pass the cable through. Only problem is all of the hardware on the cable ends are >1/4 in. Maybe I'm dumb, but I can't figure it out other than drilling a much larger hole or disassembling the cable. Also, once the cable is through, how are you guys routing the cable? Thanks.
I don't recall the size of the top hole it just needs to be big enough to squeeze the crimped ball at the end of the cable through. The bottom ended up being a U letter drill .368 I believe the picture shows our cable placement. the cable lays in the tunnel then over the top of the tank and across the motor to the throttle body.
P1000915a.jpg
Last edited by waruaki; 12-27-2013 at 01:30 PM.
Thanks waruaki, that helped immensely!
Here's what I did. I drilled a 1/2" hole (manual says 1/4") in the firewall and had to punch the ball and plastic crimp through the hole:
I then used a 3/8" E-Clip from lowes to act as a washer for the cable to attach to the firewall:
I then drilled another 1/2" hole to allow the cable to pass through the trans tunnel.
Well today is officially 1 year later from when I started tearing down my perfectly good WRX to prep for this project. Even though it's taking a while, I'm still having a blast and learning a lot as I go. So far I have 206 hours into this project, including the WRX teardown.
So here's what I got done today. I finally riveted the interior aluminum. I postponed this until I was comfortable that I wouldn't need to make any changes. I'm glad I did, because it wasn't until recently that I learned there is a coolant tube cover that someone else discovered. The manual does a good job of getting you started and then just moves on to something else. It is definitely incomplete.
Here's the passenger side. The driver side looks the same. I decided not to powder coat it since I plan to cover it in carpet. I did however give it a coat of Sharkhide to hopefully protect it from corrosion.
I also put the fuel tank together using a DW200 fuel pump. It was kind of a PITA to install, but I finally got it to fit just right. I test fit a layer of EZ cool on the bottom of the tank to aid in sound deadening and heat (another stolen idea).
The manual says to rivet the lower firewall to the floor pan. I don't like this idea as it will essentially permanently install the fuel tank. I think I'm going to go with an nut & bolt setup instead in order to have the option to remove the fuel tank if I ever need to.
Depending on my work schedule, I'm hoping to install the engine/trans this coming week.
ok guys, need a little help with mating the trans and engine back together. I've got everything lined up and all bolts threaded, but I'm getting a lot of resistance from the bolts as I get the trans & engine close. I fear that I've already done some damage to the threads and don't want to do anymore.
Any ideas?
I had/have the same issue....I just went slow and it finally went in. I also put a socket on the crank and rotated that while I tried to line it up...it never did slide in like I am use to.
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
my guess is would be the trans output shaft that is splinded is not aligning with the splines on the clutch plate. it took some wiggling on mine to put it together. sometimes when you reassemble the clutch and pressure plate there is an alignment tool. I just eye balled center
Thanks for the response Eric, that makes me feel a little better. I just hate wrenching on bolts that are fighting back. I definitely cross threaded one of nuts that goes on one of the lower studs. The stud actually unthreaded from the bell housing.
Well you might need to back the tranny off and wiggle and try and poke it back in
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
Hey Guns,
There are two 10mm alignment pins that are use for the last 1/2" of travel. Are they damaged or corroded?
Bob
Nope, they are fine and are all lined up.
yeah know...I just noticed...you have the starter in ....I typically wait until the tranny is seated before I install the starter. This allows me to move the flywheel ever so slightly to get the clutch disk onto the input shaft of the tranny....
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
Mine was a PITA too, it took a ton of wiggling. I'd remove the starter too and work really slowly clamping it together with the bolts.
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Two of the bolts are longer than the others. I use these to pull the top together without the starter. After it's done and together I remove those bolts, put the starter back in and then bolt it together.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
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www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
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Thanks for the advice guys. I got it very close to sealing by slowing tightening each bolt and just when i thought I had it, one of the bolts stripped. So I took removed all the bolts, released the fork and bearing and tried to back the trans off the engine...and now it's stuck. I have a good couple of inches of separation from the bell housing to the engine, but it won't budge. I can wiggle around a bit, but it seems like the output shaft is hung up. I tried using a pry bar, but it only goes so far before I get a lot of resistance. I'm really hoping I didn't cross thread the splines or anything. Any ideas?
Guns
If you have a couple of inches between the engine and transmission, you can loosen the clutch cover bolts. The will allow the clutch disk to float and should let you pull off the transmission.
See if someone else replies here also to see if my suggestion makes sense.
Bob
Thanks Bob. I actually just did that. Got the trans off and looks like I did indeed cross-thread the splines, so now the clutch/pressure plate are stuck on the output shaft. I need to figure out how to get those off and assess how badly I damaged the output shaft. Suck.
What style of clutch? If it's a pull clutch, the bearing might have already locked onto the pressure plate. you'll have to remove teh plug on the side of teh trans near the fork and release the fork from the bearing.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
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Welp, I learned some lessons the hard way, but I was lucky that there was minimal damage. Turns out the I did cross-thread the output shaft and clutch splines which essentially fused the clutch disk to the output shaft. The clutch had to get torched to be removed, but the splines on the output shaft were not damaged. So in the end I got away with just needing a new clutch disk...could have been much worse. So as advice to anyone else doing this, make sure you use a clutch alignment tool. I did not the first time around which lead to my "issue." Because of the miss-alignment, I also stripped the threads in the engine block. I had to install Heli-Coils in all holes.
With that being said, I finally got everything back together and got the engine & trans installed:
The install was pretty straight forward due to the advice of others.
I was also able to get the radiator installed and plumbed.
Even with using the sifter bushings as spacers for the bottom of the radiator, I still had clearance issues with the lower Rad hose and the steering rack boot. So I installed a simple hose clamp that hold the corrugated hose up just enough to clear (hard to tell in the pic, but there's about 1/4 in of clearance):
I struggled with the hose adapters for a bit until I figured it out. The hose adapters come with sleeves. Remove the larger diameter one and discard. This is where the corrugated hose will go. Use plenty of dish soap to help get them on.
Last edited by GUNS; 01-21-2014 at 06:52 PM.
FFR's radiator hose setup is nasty on the Cobra and it is nasty here also, which they would learn
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Not to tell you to move the drivers front flex line, but it should go on the inside of frame and the aluminum wheel wells. They are rather thin and can get damaged easy.
look at my thread and others, pm me anytime man
Thanks Metal, I appreciate the help. I typically look through threads before starting a new section, but I sometimes miss things. It looks like it should be a relatively easy fix.
Yea it's no biggy, it is looking clean so keep up the good work!!
Looks like I found another good build thread that I missed and now must follow. keep up the good work!!
Nolan
65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032
818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)
I bought more of the orange silicone coated P clamps from mcmaster to hold my hoses.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
I wish there was a better way to do the hoses, as the flex hose does not hold up, as after a year on the track with my challenge car I had to replace all the stock flex hose, lucky with the challenge car I could find real hoses that worked, but here with the run so long it will be impossible, someone just has to make something
Is that the stock WRX fan on the radiator ?
Last edited by FFRSpec72; 01-22-2014 at 10:53 PM.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
the hose on driver's side at the back it too far back, it will run into the wheel well aluminum if you install it. I cut about 6 inches off the end of the aluminum tube so the coupling is where you have the clamp.
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Erik, thanks for the point out. I noticed that too and was planning on trimming it down if needed.
Look real nice, but expen$ive (more that I can afford) ! Time to go to my roll cage builder and have him bend some aluminum tubing, even better may be a long run of the Gates Green StripeŽ Wire Inserted Coolant hose would be better than the FFR setup and you don't have to worry about all the connections and hose clamps and @ about $10 foot still cheaper.
Last edited by FFRSpec72; 01-23-2014 at 11:16 AM.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress