Odometer reset

[metros]

Thanks for sharing that info xusia.

[nkw8181]

I sent mine to http://www.aaellc.com. it was 140 which included shipping it back to me. They changed all the bulbs and set the speedometer to 15 miles (lowest it would let them). I expect to be very happy with the result (will be a while before testing since I need power). 15 vs 121k, yep much better.

[K3LAG]

it may just hang at 999,999. Only one way to find out.
K3LAG, Let us know when you get there.
Bob

Still running. Passed 500K miles earlier today. Should be to 000000 sometime on March 11th unless it stops at 999999.

Larry

[Quiny]

Still running. Passed 500K miles earlier today. Should be to 000000 sometime on March 11th unless it stops at 999999.

Larry

thanks Larry, I was just about to ask you how it was going.

[STiPWRD]

Hey Larry, I too am eagerly waiting to see how your approach turns out. One question though, I couldn't tell what voltage range you were using in post #24. I'm trying to replicate this on my 06 Sti cluster with a signal generator but the result is not working consistently. For example, the speedo dial will spike for about a second and then fall back down. After a bunch of attempts, I got the odometer to log 0.2 miles but that's it. I'm using a square wave from 0-5V at 800Hz with 50% duty cycle (5V for 625usec, 0V for 625usec). I got the same result with a 15% duty cycle as well.

[K3LAG]

Hey Larry, I too am eagerly waiting to see how your approach turns out. One question though, I couldn't tell what voltage range you were using in post #24. I'm trying to replicate this on my 06 Sti cluster with a signal generator but the result is not working consistently. For example, the speedo dial will spike for about a second and then fall back down. After a bunch of attempts, I got the odometer to log 0.2 miles but that's it. I'm using a square wave from 0-5V at 800Hz with 50% duty cycle (5V for 625usec, 0V for 625usec). I got the same result with a 15% duty cycle as well.

My square wave is only about 4v peak to peak and it has an offset of about 1.6v. So, the square wave goes from 1.6v to 5.6v. The offset and voltage are pretty touchy. I can run about 880 Hz reliably. I can get up to 950 Hz to run for an hour or two, but it aventually quits working. The duty cycle is 50%.

Larry

[STiPWRD]

My square wave is only about 4v peak to peak and it has an offset of about 1.6v. So, the square wave goes from 1.6v to 5.6v. The offset and voltage are pretty touchy. I can run about 880 Hz reliably. I can get up to 950 Hz to run for an hour or two, but it aventually quits working. The duty cycle is 50%.

Thanks for the info! I finally got my cluster to run off of an old pulse generator (Global specialties 4001). Now I just have to wait 2 months... I don't think the board I was trying to use before to generate the signal was working properly. After work this past Friday, I was able to play around with a more expensive pulse generator (Agilent 33220A) to figure out what worked and what didn't so I thought I'd share some results that may be interesting to others. I tried several different square wave voltage ranges to see if they would properly generate a speedo signal that the cluster would read. Here are the results:

1V to 5V: Worked
0V to 5V: Worked
0V to 3.3V: Didn't work

I always kept a 50% duty cycle. Also, I tried different frequencies and found that the cluster would accept frequencies greater than 1000Hz but that the odometer rate would not increase. For instance, the cluster would log miles at the same rate with inputs from 1000Hz to 2500Hz. One thing to note is that I'm using an 06 Sti cluster, which I believe has an entirely different board architecture that older wrx clusters. Here's a pic of the board:
IMAG0135.jpg

[K3LAG]

Passed 900k miles this evening. 5 more days.

Larry

[Goldwing]

I'd be tempted to leave it at 900k, just to go along with the uniqueness of the car.

[malin818]

I can help with that please contact me for more info.

[longislandwrx]

I can help with that please contact me for more info.

sounds legit.

[K3LAG]

About two hours left!

Larry

[K3LAG]

The answer is now known. It stops at 999999. No rollover.

Larry

[Xusia]

Oh man! I guess if I think about it, that makes sense. That way it's obvious it's got a lot of miles.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The answer is now known. It stops at 999999. No rollover.

Larry

I suspected that. see my post earlier in this thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post135918

The internal counter is probably 32 bit which means 4,294,967,296
A 16 bit counter would only be 65,526 miles and would not be big enough.

I'll try replacing the memory chip when I get a chance.

Edit: you should call Subaru and tell them you got a million miles on you car. Ask them to send you a new dash.
Bob

[STiPWRD]

The answer is now known. It stops at 999999. No rollover.

Larry

Crap, lol well there goes that plan. I might run mine up to an even number like 500,000 and start from there (at 300,000 right now)

[K3LAG]

The internal counter is probably 32 bit which means 4,294,967,296
A 16 bit counter would only be 65,526 miles and would not be big enough.


Bob

It appears not to be stored as an integer. According to this link (from STiPWRD's build thread) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105...pped-dash.html it is encoded in a rather strange way. Even in this case they don't seem to have figured out exactly how to encode it, just get it 'close enough.'

Larry

[nkw8181]

I'm not sure how they did it but they said it now shows 15 miles. (I can't verify until I hook it up to power)

I sent mine to http://www.aaellc.com. it was 140 which included shipping it back to me. They changed all the bulbs and set the speedometer to 15 miles (lowest it would let them). I expect to be very happy with the result (will be a while before testing since I need power). 15 vs 121k, yep much better.

[STiPWRD]

I'm not sure how they did it but they said it now shows 15 miles.

I sure am tempted to send mine over, might just follow through an do it!

[K3LAG]

I win!!!!

IMG_0517.jpg

Plan B, reprogramming the eeprom did the trick.

This link, from STiPWRD's build thread gave me the clues I needed: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105...pped-dash.html

If you set the values in eeprom to 0000 with a check word of FFFF you get 15 miles. I did that first and it worked fine.

If you set the values to FFFE with a check word of 0001 you get 0.

I expected to get 999999 with FFFE which I would then roll over to 0, but when I plugged the eeprom in it was at 0 so there we go!

Next step is to change backlighting to orange/amber and the cluster will go back together.

Larry

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Larry
Great job.
Can you burn about 100 copies of the 50 cent eproms and sell them to anyone for 10 buck each for your efforts and time.
I figure you have about a 1000 hours into this.

There is probably another number in the eprom that calibrates the odometer and speedo based on tire diameter.
Bob

[K3LAG]

I have some extra eeproms since I had to buy a minimum of 10 from Jameco. I'm a bit leery of selling them to other folks because there is more data in the eeprom than just the odometer value. For instance, some set of bits controls which gauge is the tach vs speedo and some other ones turn on/off the outdoor temp display. Who know what else is in there. If someone had the exact same model cluster as mine, I might consider it.

I didn't use the home brew programmer shown in the thread above. I used the ICSP port on my PICKit 2 programmer. Worked like a champ.

Larry

[bompus]

Would you consider offering this as a vendor service if we send in our cluster to you? I'd do it myself, but then I have to buy a programmer, de-solder, solder, etc. It would be nice to have a service for this.

[Pearldrummer7]

Would you consider offering this as a vendor service if we send in our cluster to you? I'd do it myself, but then I have to buy a programmer, de-solder, solder, etc. It would be nice to have a service for this.

This would be a really cool idea! I would pay for this service.

[Kalstar]

Would you consider offering this as a vendor service if we send in our cluster to you? I'd do it myself, but then I have to buy a programmer, de-solder, solder, etc. It would be nice to have a service for this.

I would also happily pay you.

[K3LAG]

The thought of offering it as a service has crossed my mind, but I have two concerns:

1. How much to charge. The parts are cheap. I would replace the EEPROM on your cluster with a new one in a socket and return your original EEPROM unchanged. But, my time is pretty precious and when I factor in the work itself plus packaging and shipping I'd have to charge more than some might think it's worth. What do you guys think would be a reasonable price?

2. Although the job is pretty easy, I'd be worried about messing up someones cluster. I'd have to do it without any kind of guarantee because I don't have the ability to verify that the cluster works properly, in all ways, when I get it or after I modify it. I don't want to have to deal with the situation where I accidentally mess up someones cluster or someone sends me one and claims I broke it when it was already damaged.

I think if I did it, I'd want some evidence that you are building an 818, I don't want everyone and his brother asking for the service as some may want to change their mileage for nefarious reasons.

Also, I can only do it for clusters that have an 8 pin DIP EEPROM, some of the later clusters are surface mount and I don't want to deal with them.

Larry

[FFRSpec72]

Wouldn't the easiest be to just offer the preprogrammed EEPROM for a given set of cluster/EEPROM versions, and let the folks mess with the de soldering and soldering and then your life is simpler and easy to mail out.

So I send you my EEPROM, you send me back (1) my old EEPROM unchanged (2) a EEPROM socket and (3) a new EEPROM that has been copied from the EEPROM I sent you and the mileage values changed.

[Jaime]

I have some extra eeproms since I had to buy a minimum of 10 from Jameco.

I only see the 256x8 version at Jameco. From the RS25 post referenced earlier, I thought it was a 93c56EN, which is the 128x16 version. It has the same capacity, but reads in 16 bit chuncks. What markings were on your original cluster chip?

BTW, I have a PICStart+ and it doesn't do EEPROMs. I'm going to have to whip up a programmer tonight.

[K3LAG]

Wouldn't the easiest be to just offer the preprogrammed EEPROM for a given set of cluster/EEPROM versions, and let the folks mess with the de soldering and soldering and then your life is simpler and easy to mail out.

So I send you my EEPROM, you send me back (1) my old EEPROM unchanged (2) a EEPROM socket and (3) a new EEPROM that has been copied from the EEPROM I sent you and the mileage values changed.

That could probably work, but some people seemed to want to avoid doing the desoldering and soldering themselves. It would definitely be easier for me and less expensive.

Larry

[K3LAG]

I only see the 256x8 version at Jameco. From the RS25 post referenced earlier, I thought it was a 93c56EN, which is the 128x16 version. It has the same capacity, but reads in 16 bit chuncks. What markings were on your original cluster chip?

BTW, I have a PICStart+ and it doesn't do EEPROMs. I'm going to have to whip up a programmer tonight.

Pin 6 determines whether it is 128x16 vs 256x8.

If you are going to whip up a serial programmer as in the thread, make sure you are using a real serial port. USB->serial converters often won't work because they don't provide enough power.

Larry

[Xusia]

My thoughts: I completely understand where you are coming from Larry. There are other vendors that provide this service (with appropriate warranty) for $150-$180, so if it's not worth it to you to provide it for less than that, why would you bother?

Personally, I like the idea of you just sending back an pre-programmed EEPROM. I like it because there is no risk for you, and therefore it should be fairly cheap. This gives folks options. If someone wants to go the cheap route, they have an option that requires a bit of work. They can do that work themselves, or pay someone else to do it. If they want it all done for them, there are the aforementioned vendors that can provide that level of service. Everyone's happy!

[Jaime]

Pin 6 determines whether it is 128x16 vs 256x8.

If you are going to whip up a serial programmer as in the thread, make sure you are using a real serial port. USB->serial converters often won't work because they don't provide enough power.

Larry

Computer <--> USB to Serial Adapter <--> Serial Cable <--> MAX232 <--> PIC16F84 (5V properly powered) <--> 93C56

That's what I have lying around, so I won't have any problems with voltage.

[Jaime]

Pin 6 determines whether it is 128x16 vs 256x8.

Pin 6 is only active on the C part, for A and B parts, the datasheet reads "ORG/PE: No internal connections on 93XXA/B". Jameco lists that part as being 93C56A. What part did they send you?

[K3LAG]

pin 6 is only active on the c part, for a and b parts, the datasheet reads "org/pe: No internal connections on 93xxa/b". Jameco lists that part as being 93c56a. What part did they send you?

sci 93c56p

[Jaime]

Thanks to K3LAG's work, I now have my odometer all set for my build.

ODOAfter.gif

I didn't want to wait for a programmer to come in the mail -- the really cheap ones come directly from China and take weeks. So, I put this together:

Programming.gif

I used a few RS232 interface chips (MAX232), some wires, some capacitors, and a USB-to-serial cable. I also added a socket for the EEPROM in my gauge cluster in case I have to tweak it some more.

Socket.gif

[malin818]

EDIT: Post removed by mod

[longislandwrx]

Thanks to K3LAG's work, I now have my odometer all set for my build.

I used a few RS232 interface chips (MAX232), some wires, some capacitors, and a USB-to-serial cable. I also added a socket for the EEPROM in my gauge cluster in case I have to tweak it some more.

Socket.gif

Looks like K3LAG did it too.. now that is awesome.

it would be cool to hook up the intake air temp sensor to the ambient temp sensor.

[afbeefcake]

Looks like K3LAG did it too.. now that is awesome.

it would be cool to hook up the intake air temp sensor to the ambient temp sensor.

You could put the OAT sensor in the intake. that way the display would show your intake temp.

Its not hard to get the OAT display working. I have made harnesses before to get it to work on wrxs with swapped clusters.

I also build an in circuit programmer to reprogram the eeproms without the need to remove them from the cluster board.

[longislandwrx]

Yeah that's what I meant...

"it would be cool to hook up the intake air temp sensor to the ambient temp display. "

moving the oat would be easier too, especially if you were using the factory airbox.

PS you have some awesome cars... still have that SVX?

[grathke]

This place looks promising too:

http://www.odo-pro.com/digital-mileage-correction.html

I've not used them yet, if anyone does, let us know how it goes.