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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Doowop - unlike many bumpsteer kits I've seen, the Baer one comes with tapered tie rod ends to fit in the OEM spindle taper. I have one which is still in the package, but will be installing soon.
Why did you elect to drill out the taper? Was the provided taper/bolt shim assembly not long enough to provide the 2 7/16" necessary to achieve the known/desired no-bumpsteer dimension?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Bill Waters
Doowop - unlike many bumpsteer kits I've seen, the Baer one comes with tapered tie rod ends to fit in the OEM spindle taper. I have one which is still in the package, but will be installing soon.
Why did you elect to drill out the taper? Was the provided taper/bolt shim assembly not long enough to provide the 2 7/16" necessary to achieve the known/desired no-bumpsteer dimension?
Hey Bill. You are exactly right. The Baer kit out of he box is not long enough for the 2 7/16" spacer.
You guys are welcome. Its pretty easy to do. Just take your time.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Rasmus
I love you.
You took the words out of my mouth... Thank you so much for this post!
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fasterer and furiouser
Radmiral! Hope you didn't accidently slug back some anti-seize reaching for your Barqs... bite indeed.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
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Would re-positioning the rack upwards work as well?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Racebrewer
Would re-positioning the rack upwards work as well?
It would, but according to Jim Schenck and Wayne Presley it's better to run a bump steer kit:
Originally Posted by
Jim Schenck
Adding a bumpsteer kit gives you an adjustable angle plane, you can set it to wherever you want it. Moving the rack would move it away from the height plane of the lower control arm, but if you are saying the two should always be on the same angle plane I disagree. The lower arm and tie rod should only be parallel if they were the exact same height, angle, and the same length when viewed from the front. Usually the best solution does not have the tie rod and lower arm at the same angle because as the tie rod gets closer to the upper arm it is more affected by that movement as well.
In this case moving the tie rod down gets it closer to the height of the longer arm, and since it is a fixed length (determined by your toe setting and the width of the rack) getting it closer to the longer of the two control arms is helpful. If you really wanted to move the rack you could, but it isn't better.
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Senior Member
Just adding an FYI- If you are worried about the length of the spacer and strength of the arm of the knuckle, there is an easy fix. Just weld a support bracket to the spacer and bolt it to the knuckle where the existing bolt hole is. A triangle brace would probably be best if you are that worried.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
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Maybe a stupid question but is this just for people running the R ride height?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
nkw8181
Maybe a stupid question but is this just for people running the R ride height?
Yep- R height only.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
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Senior Member
Seems this would be a better bump-steer solution as no drilling required, bolts up to existing tie rods and spindles http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...s-brz-wrx.html
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
FFRSpec72
Better??? You must of missed the issues of the original problem. The kit you posted, and the Baer essentially have the same issue. They both bolt on fine. The issue is the kit provided tapered bolt and spacers are not long enough to deal with the bump steer at the R ride height. That's why you have to drill out the spindle taper (for a longer bolt- unless you find a much longer tapered bolt- that matches the WRX taper exactly). Then you have to cut custom spacers because the provided ones are not long enough.
Just re-read the guide.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
C.Plavan
Better??? You must of missed the issues of the original problem. The kit you posted, and the Baer essentially have the same issue. They both bolt on fine. The issue is the kit provided tapered bolt and spacers are not long enough to deal with the bump steer at the R ride height. That's why you have to drill out the spindle taper (for a longer bolt- unless you find a much longer tapered bolt- that matches the WRX taper exactly). Then you have to cut custom spacers because the provided ones are not long enough.
Just re-read the guide.
Yes I read, the part I referenced actually removes the bump steer on at least 2 cars, mine (02' rack) and the center drive (custom rack). I would have to see the 2 kits side by side to see what the difference would be if any.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
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Senior Member
In Rasmus' DIY post, he used a 5/8" rod end. Why so large? I get why Chad used that size (Baer kit's size, of course) but if you're drilling both the hub and the tie rod end out, why not use a smaller and more manageable size? Like say, 1/2"-13?
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It is not an area that you want a weak link.
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Yes, the 5/8 is overkill, but it's easier since you have to drill that size hole into the arm anyway. You could use some reduction bushings in the arm, but you really don't save much by doing so.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
RetroRacing
Yes, the 5/8 is overkill, but it's easier since you have to drill that size hole into the arm anyway. You could use some reduction bushings in the arm, but you really don't save much by doing so.
Why do I need to drill that size hole anyway? I could drill out the hub to 1/2", drill and tap the tie rod end to 1/2"-13, and run a 1/2"x 5" long bolt through a 1/2" rod end.
This is just me trying to justify not buying a 5/8" tap