Seemed to have started/cranked pretty fast. Is that the sound it will have once all will be done? Oh, no sorry, I see your turbo outlet it opened. Keep up the good work, soon on the road!
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Seemed to have started/cranked pretty fast. Is that the sound it will have once all will be done? Oh, no sorry, I see your turbo outlet it opened. Keep up the good work, soon on the road!
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
CONGRATS! Starting the engine is a big milestone that proves you did hundreds of things right - mechanical and electrical. Your Crew Chief is proud of you.
Last edited by AZPete; 07-28-2014 at 06:27 PM. Reason: typo
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Been a while since I've been able to work on it. I thought I fixed my throw out bearing issue, but apparently I didn't. Can anyone help me with this? When I move the clutch fork towards the rear of the car, the throw out bearing engages with the flywheel. When the clutch is pushed in, it's almost as if the bearing is dislodged as you can see in the video. I can re-seat it, but it happens every time. I'm really hoping this is an easy fix, but I'm not sure what else to do at the moment without having to remove the trans and look around.
Looks like the bearing is not seating properly and the clutch is not putting pressure on arm. Push arm all the way up with a breaker bar and turn over, it might lock in. Let me know what happens.
Welp, I took a few steps back. Turns out I somehow damaged the lock ring on the pressure plate that the throw out bearing locks into. The only way to fix it is to pull the trans and replace the pressure plate. The good news out of this is that when I pulled the trans I noticed I had a leak from my passenger side axle seal, so I went ahead and fixed that. Also, removing the trans with the engine in the car isn't too bad. hopefully putting it back together won't be too hard as well. Overall it shouldn't set me back too far, still kind of frustrating though.
On a side note, where is everyone mounting their coolant overflow tank? The manual says to mount in in the engine bay, but I see a lot of people mounting it up front on the driver's side of the radiator. I have mine in the back right now. Thanks.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 07-21-2014 at 03:05 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I have tanks at both ends as well... Not sure where my second tank came from, it was in my garage pile o parts
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Hey guys, thanks for the quick replies. Are two tanks required or just desired? I believe the one that comes of the radiator was capped on my donor.
I see a problem with 2 tanks. What if: Each time you get the engine hot it dump water in tank #1. Then it cools and suck fluid back in out of tank #2. Repeat a couple of time and you pushing out water on the track out of tank #1 vent and sucking air back in out of empty tank#2.
The front tank cap should be a sealed type.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 07-21-2014 at 05:16 PM.
One tank on mine mounted at the rear, flawless so far. My radiator is capped off except for the primary hoses to and from the water pump of coarse.
photo 5.JPG
Last edited by waruaki; 07-21-2014 at 05:24 PM.
Good point Bob!
My radiator came with a slightly higher pressure cap, but I think your thought of a sealed cap in front might be the way to go. I felt water coming out was controlled with the different caps, but going back in? A crap shoot, it seems. I guess the solution is a sealed cap at one end or plumbing both overflow lines to one bottle. Good thoughts.
Rich
818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Good discussion. I think I'm going to run the one tank in the rear for now and see how it works out.
I was able to get my trans all back together and all in all it went relatively uneventful and now the clutch works as it should. I'm not too sure about the shifter though, it almost feels as if it's binding a bit and getting it into 5th/reverse is very difficult. Anybody have any tips on shifter adjustment?
Also, I attempted burping the cooling system. I tried following Wayne's methods of holding up the Radiator while filling and then also tapped into the return line to the degas tank. This is my first time ever doing a coolant burp, so I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly or not.
At idle, the water temps sit right around 190 ish. If I rev it up a bit (2-3k, just for a few seconds) and let it idle again, the water temps begin to climb past 225. I usually shut it off at this point. Of note I only have 1 Radiator fan working at the moment. Also, the return side (passenger side) coolant lines get very hot and the driver side is still cool. I'm assuming there's still air in the system, but not sure what else to do. T
Thanks guys.
If you haven't done so already, run the engine until it is warm, shut it off and let it cool completely. Next, top up the coolant reservoir. Repeat this over and over - run, cool, top-up - until warm water is circulating fully and the temp gauge stays steady without overheating. You may have to repeat this ten times or so.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Thanks guys. I've done it a few times, but maybe not enough. It does seem to be getting a bit better. Also, do you leave the cap off the coolant reservoir?
Cap on when running. Once cooled down remove the cap to add more coolant, cap back on, run . . . repeat.
When I was doing this my wife said, "Geez, I know you are proud that the engine runs but do you have to start it every time you walk past it?" Yup.
Last edited by AZPete; 07-28-2014 at 06:34 PM.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Yup after further review, I DON'T recommend doing the cap off...makes a mess! Oh well, I'm getting there. Thanks again for all the help guys, not sure what I'd do without this community.
The system is pressurized when it's warm. So if you remove the cap... psssssschhhhhtttttttttttt lolll You laugh hey, but one day I shut down the engine, forgot I did (how??), went to the coolant reservoir to add some in, removed the cap and even before I could totally remove it, it made a big pscht and a mess around. I got sprayed with hot coolant and some of the engine bay as well. That thing is like slime, it's hard to remove and sticks. Glycol, that is.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Don't feel bad FFR let john Jorge drive off in the blue R and the cap was not on all the way. This is after the red one blew up.
After a few heat cycles everything seems to be working great. Water temp stays right around 190 ish at idle.
Car fires right up and seems to be running great. I do have a code relating to fuel level sensor, so I must have wired it up wrong. Other than that, I just need to figure out my shift linkage, button up some wiring, torque the suspension and get ready to drive this thing!
It Moves!!! Don't mind the part in the middle where I had to stop to pick up my flip flop...
Congrats! That driveway is going to be hell when you get your body on.
That guy with the basketball didn't seem to care at all.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Yea no kidding. I was surprised it didn't scrape in go-kart form. I may end up buying one of these: http://www.amazon.com/BRIDJIT-Expand...way+curb+ramps
I'm loving my 335i. I bough it off of a friend who had to move and sold it at a great price. Definitely more entertaining to drive than my truck everyday.
Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-08-2014 at 07:42 PM.
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
Hey Guns, nice build. not sure if I missed it but what are you using for header, exhaust routing and muffler? Sounds good. equal length or unequal?
Thanks
Harley, not sure what I'm going to use as a final solution, but this is how the stock engine sounds without an exhaust. I basically just bolted up the little elbow that FFR provides to the turbo and left it like that.
did you lose any gas going around those corners?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Been working when I can to clean everything up before I start on the body. I took it on another drive...man is this thing going to be awesome when it's dialed in. Even without an alignment it handles awesome! Steering is so light and precise. The chassis responds immediately with little to no roll!! Stock turbo w/ a stage 2 tune feels very responsive. Very similar to my MKIV Supra I had; useable low end torque and tons of acceleration when boost builds. Granted, I'm limited to driving it in my neighborhood and I'm still breaking in a new clutch and flywheel, but so far so good.
I spent some time cleaning up the electrical harness. There is a lot of bulk, but I was able to make it all fit. I'll post pics when it's all done.
I also replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket and hopefully that fixes my oil leak.
In addition, I finally figured out my fuel level issue. As always, the manual does a poor job on what to splice where, hence my initial confusion. With that said here's a diagram for how to wire this up for an 02 donor.