508's stroker build thread

[RandyB]

I'm not sure what qualifies a brake line as shst, but they are braided stainless steel hydraulic hoses. I went to the wilwood site to look up the brake line kit that was needed with the brakes. It is listed in enough detail to go to another site and find similar parts.

[Frank818]

Wilwood doesn't say if they are -3 AN or -3 SHST. I don't even know what SHST stands for. That's why I am confused.

[Jaime]

The Wilwood calipers have 1/8 NPT threads in them. No matter what brake lines you get, you'll need nipples. As long as the nipples you buy match the lines you buy, you're good.

The part list you quoted is all -3 AN.

[Frank818]

The brake lines are 3/16" right?

[sponaugle]

The only cover I plan to put over the ECU is the passenger seat. I put the ECU inside the firewall to avoid subjecting it to adverse weather.

I hope you never get rained on....

I was thinking the same thing. I was planning on putting the ECU in the same place so it is inside the cabin.. However since it really isn't a sealed car water is a potential problem. I suppose it would be possible to make an aluminum cover that has a seal on it to protect the ECU.

Jeff

[Frank818]

The brake lines are 3/16" right?

Yes they are.

http://www.wilwood.com/M/techtip/Tec...spx?id=11&no=1

And from the POL:

13738 BRAKE LINE, 3/16" O.D.x 60" EA 6.00
13740 BRAKE LINE, 3/16" O.D.x 20" EA 1.00
14692 BRAKE LINE, 3/16" O.D.x 8" EA 2.00

This was the last information not on Wilwood flexline's pages, I think I have found another source for the parts for those outside USA. I will post on my thread.


Tnx Randy!

[RandyB]

The day in the garage included installation of the gauge cluster in the dash, bundling the wiring harness and installing the driver side Kirkey seat. The major milestone today was to hook up the battery and validate some of the electrical functions. As we didn't let any smoke out of the wires, we are declaring success.

After using the Boyd fuel tank and bending the firewall to harvest the space saved by the tank, I'm including some photos showing the fit of the seats. Roger, sitting in the seat is 5' 11" tall and is quite comfortable in the seat. His comment was that if he could change the position of the seat he wouldn't.

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[RandyB]

A new milestone today. After getting the motor stroked, reflashing the ECU and getting the wiring run, we got the motor running for the first time. A video is attached.

[Kurk818]

Its an amazing feeling when that happens. Congrats!

Did you slim down the wiring harness in any way? From the previous photos, you still had the OEM shielding on the wiring. Are you mounting the shift on top of the tunnel?

[RandyB]

I did slim down the harness, but not as much as some others. I didn't mess with the elements of the harness that extend outside of the car. I deleted all environmental, radio, door and airbag wiring downsizing the central harness.

We haven't yet installed the shifter.

[RandyB]

We spent the weekend getting a bunch of things tied down, the shifter and cables installed, roughly aligning the wheels and getting the car in condition to take it out for the first drive. I've attached a couple videos of the first time out. We found a number of things that need some tuning and adjustment during the first drive - all part of the fun. Now on to making it look good...

[Quiny]

Thanks for letting me check out your progress today, car looks great and sounds really good, sorry I missed the maiden voyage.

[RandyB]

Thanks for letting me check out your progress today, car looks great and sounds really good, sorry I missed the maiden voyage.

You're welcome. Stop by any time.

[RandyB]

We finished most of the mechanical and electrical work. We took it out for a test drive and heard several some scraping which turned out to be the mounting bolts used with the Wilwood brakes. Added a couple of washers as spacers and the noise was gone. We got the car aligned over the weekend and then started mounting the body. I am attaching a few photos showing the rear mounted and one showing the modifications to the filler tube to work with the Boyd tank. It's starting to look like a car.

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[RandyB]

Prior to finishing up the body and getting the carpet installed, I decided it would be a good idea to finish the rest of the wiring to make sure I didn't have any issues that would cause me to rip it back apart. It was a good thing I did as the wire from pin 13 on the headlight switch to the headlight relays was open. I ran a new wire between the two and got the last of the electrical completed. The remaining issue on the electrical is that the turn signals act like I have a blown bulb - my suspicion is that it is because I ran the wiring to the tail lights without the flasher provided by factory five. I'm still wrestling with how to connect the flasher as they only gave me one. It seems I either need one flasher per side or I need to use the flasher on the source side of the signal switch. The manual doesn't really do a good job of describing where to install the led flasher. Any advice?

Anyway, here's a couple shots with the tails functional.

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[Stickshift84]

I had the same problem recently on mine with the bulbs flashing too rapidly. I however had already buried my Subaru flasher underneath the center console and did not want to take things back apart. The Factory 5 supplied relay works in place of the Subaru unit if you have access to it. If not you can wire in LED load resisters (one off of each turn signal bulb) spliced in from load to ground on the turn signal wires. Example of LED load resistors I used (http://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Sign...load+resistors)

[RandyB]

This is a great option as I too have buried my flasher in the tunnel. Thanks.

[RandyB]

We took our first shot at fitting the front of the body. We had already cut the front clip around the radiator support, but it didn't quite fit right. After visiting Mike, we adjusted the position of the windshield and had to cut the fenders around the windshield pillars to make it close. The specifics on the windshield was to make sure the windshield is all the way to the bottom of the slots on the windshield mount and then we measured approximately 32.5 inches from the front of the roll bar to the top edge of the windshield mount, measured on each side where the top arc of the rollbar begins. We will fine tune the position and screw it down on our next build day.

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[Quiny]

Front wheels look centered but how about the rears? Its hard to tell from that angle. I think I read that some people were having an issue with the wheels not being centered when they followed the procedure in the manual.

[RandyB]

Front wheels look centered but how about the rears? Its hard to tell from that angle. I think I read that some people were having an issue with the wheels not being centered when they followed the procedure in the manual.

Both front and rear are very very close (at least by my eye), but I didn't exactly follow the procedure in the manual. Where the manual said to mount the rear quarter panels by gapping them back from the front tube on the side of the frame, I lined the panels up exactly with the same location. Had I followed the manual, the rear wheels didn't look quite centered. Here's a shot of the rear wheel.

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[RandyB]

We got the front end tied down (thought the hood pins have yet to be installed). I don't know how many times I took off and put on the front end over the past two days, but it feels good to have that part of the build done. We attempted to move on to the doors and realized we didn't take the hinges off the donor, so we will hunt down a set of hinges. It's probably a blessing as hot and muggy it is outside today. We found the front end took a lot of fine tuning, including cutting of every component in a number of places. We had to trim about half of the height of the hood off to match the height of the fenders. Here are a couple of photos.

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[RandyB]

Doors Hung... For some reason, I found this to be the most stressful part of the job so far.

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As others have posted, the first door takes all the time, the second door happens very rapidly. I found the instructions in the manual left some further guidance, so I will explain how we installed the door for future builders. The manual says to use the hinges as they were used on the original car, you cannot use them this way. You have to swap the upper and lower hinge as the hole pattern on the frame will not allow them to be used as on the original car. Also, don't put the rear of the front wheel well in place prior to installing the door as you will need to go through here to tighten the door bolts. As for the door post mount, you will need to either elongate the holes on the car to make the mount lie flush against the body or you will need to put several washers behind the lower screw. None of the original screws worked. The screws needed to mount the door post need to be replaced with countersunk screws that fit completely within the recess of the door mount to avoid interference with the door. We used 1/4x20x1" screws for this purpose. The screws from the door latch are too short to go through the door skin, frame and latch. We ended up buying some 6mmx1x20mm screws to fit the door. We also needed to do a bunch of countersinking to avoid parts rubbing against other body parts.

To position the frame prior to adding the door skin, we found it was easiest to install the door post first using a bright light and drilling the holes as far toward the outside of the car as possible. Once that was done, install the hinges and door latch on the door. Latch the door latch to the door post and put three paint sticks under the lower steel foot of the frame. Adjust the position of the hinges so that all of the bolts can be tightened, making sure that the latch is as far out on the door post as you can possibly get it. (using non-locking nuts makers this easier). Then take a sharpie and mark the position of the center of each bolt on the door frame. Measure the distance from the frame to a fixed point on the inside of the car as you will want to be able to reproduce the exact location on the next step after removing the latch. Open the door frame and remove the latch.

Slide the door skin over the frame and mark the center location of the door post. mark the cutout as indicated in the book and cut it out. While you're at it, mark and arch on the lower front of the door with something about the size of a coffee can and cut that as well. Put the skin back on the frame and get it where you want it's final location and using the measurement you took earlier, put the frame where it was in the measurement you took earlier. Making sure all of the lines are right, you will be able to make all of the holes you need to drill except one (the lower outside hole). Now take the skin and frame off the car to build the door. Drill all the holes you marked. Countersink the decorative latch plate and door so you can use countersunk screws to install the door skin to the latch. We used the 1/4-20 screws provided with the kit for the top of the doors and then mounted the lower door skin. We also countersunk the lower screws, installing one screw and then using a bright light to find where the last hole needs to go, countersinking and screwing in place. Install the door aluminum per the instructions and hang the door.

[Frank818]

I found the instructions in the manual left some further guidance, so I will explain how we installed the door for future builders.

Which version are you referring to? As we got an update on the door installation on Sep 3.

[RandyB]

Which version are you referring to? As we got an update on the door installation on Sep 3.

I received my car with rev f of the manual, but I consulted rev I to find it still didn't clarify where the hinge issue.

[Frank818]

In case you want it, the J version can be found here: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...-1J-update.pdf

[RandyB]

We went off book on a couple of modifications. We installed an E-Stopp emergency brake mechanism and we build an air box for the intercooler. We will feed air into the air box using a couple of marine bilge blowers. I have included some in progress photos of each.

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[904svo]

Similar to what I have, except I control the fans off the VSS signal they only run when the car is moving. Try to keep the battery drain low when idling.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Similar to what I have, except I control the fans off the VSS signal they only run when the car is moving. Try to keep the battery drain low when idling.

You might want to control the fans with a thermostat. When the car is stopped, heat from engine and exhaust will soak the intercooler.
Bob

[508wrx]

You might want to control the fans with a thermostat. When the car is stopped, heat from engine and exhaust will soak the intercooler.
Bob

I don't see why that would be an issue. Heat soak happens at idle with a WRX then cools while moving. Similar to 904svo's set up. The only difference is that we have a box sitting over the top of the IC.

As long as the fans are cooling while the car is moving there should be no issue... assuming that the fans can efficiently cool the IC the same way the moving air does in a WRX.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I don't see why that would be an issue. Heat soak happens at idle with a WRX then cools while moving. Similar to 904svo's set up. The only difference is that we have a box sitting over the top of the IC.

As long as the fans are cooling while the car is moving there should be no issue... assuming that the fans can efficiently cool the IC the same way the moving air does in a WRX.

I agree with what you are saying.
I just think if the core gets hot while idling. In may take minutes to cool the core. I don't want to remember to take it easy every time I've idled for a while.
That being said. I don't understand why this isn't a problem standard WRX.
Just remember the air circulation through the engine bay is a lot easier on a front mounted engine than on a mid engine car.
Bob

[ncbuilder]

Prior to finishing up the body and getting the carpet installed, I decided it would be a good idea to finish the rest of the wiring to make sure I didn't have any issues that would cause me to rip it back apart. It was a good thing I did as the wire from pin 13 on the headlight switch to the headlight relays was open. I ran a new wire between the two and got the last of the electrical completed. The remaining issue on the electrical is that the turn signals act like I have a blown bulb - my suspicion is that it is because I ran the wiring to the tail lights without the flasher provided by factory five. I'm still wrestling with how to connect the flasher as they only gave me one. It seems I either need one flasher per side or I need to use the flasher on the source side of the signal switch. The manual doesn't really do a good job of describing where to install the led flasher. Any advice?



Anyway, here's a couple shots with the tails functional.

Great build thread ! Can you tell me what car the tail light are from originally , or a part number ? I am building a one off car and think those lights are great. Thanks !

[RandyB]

I can't really tell you the part number other than what is printed on the lens. The light and LED bulbs were shipped as part of the kit from Factory Five. Perhaps they will sell them separately or share the MFG and P/N. Below is a photo of the lens with the numbering printed on it.

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[ncbuilder]

Hi and thanks, Is the light that you show with the numbers printed on it the large red Tail light ? It looks more like the small clear light that is to the inner side of the tail light .

[RandyB]

You're right. Those are the back-up/signal lights. The taillights are not marked at all and I do not still have the boxes they came in.

[RandyB]

From mid December 2013 until today, almost 2 years later, we finally made it through the salvage inspection and have a VIN assigned to the 818. We now just need to get through the registration and safety inspection and the car is on the road. It has been an exciting day.

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[michael everson]

congrats. Now there will be 2 in my neighborhood.
Mike

[mikeb75]

congrats!

[RandyB]

We put the 818 on the dyno today to get it tuned.

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We came out with about 300 HP to the wheels.

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The power is incredible. Too much foot into the throttle results in the tires breaking loose in both second and third gears. I haven't found a wide open enough space yet to find out if they break loose in 4th.

[Tamra]

That's great - congrats!

[Frank818]

Looks pretty smooth and stable!