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That is not much more than FFR. Not easy to see on picture but it looks very similar.
Interesting installation of the rad, I personally won't do it that way as air would be too hot moving through the rad, knowing my engine and turbo. I do not know for the Subaru engine/turbo combo, though. Can't wait to see results of this out-of-the-(blue)-box setup.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Interesting observation, I am thinking my motor may have had this issue and high iats which caused piston ringlands to crack. I like your idea, just not so sure how the heat will effect this setup. I went with the hard coolant line kit by Mike Everson. This should help with the bubble build up that the corrugated lines create. One cracked low and one higher. I also had a coolant leak which could have just shortened coolant and sucked in air through overflow
Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-28-2014 at 09:24 PM.
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
The cooling system should not form bubbles, that is what the thermostat and pressure cap prevent. The thermostat. is a restriction in the flow of coolant effectively raising the pressure in the block. the pressure cap keeps pressure on the entire system. if the system is full there will be no bubbles. Air can become trapped in the corrugated tubing but should bleed out fairly quickly.
Hi D Clary,
If I recall correctly, water/glycol at 16 psi still boils and forms EDIT: STEAM bubbles at about 250F.
I do agree that it is very important to get all the air out of the system.
Even with no air in the system at start, it is still possible to boil over if you cooling isn't greater than the heat load. EDIT: What come out of the overflow is not air. It is just water in it's heated state (steam)
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 08-28-2014 at 09:51 PM.
Nice build Bob, really like the wiring on the ECU panel, slick. I had a similar plan but not as compact as that! I want to use cannon plugs for bulkhead connections. The radiator plan should work, I had a friend that did something similar with a Fiero kit build and it cooled fine. This Subaru Rally car has it in the boot and all IC up front...
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/projects-40...car-build.html
Frank
Bob here is that Fiero kit rear rad I was talking about.
http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/fiero/sh...tyle=printable
He ducted the side vents into the radiator and also had ECU fan control...
Frank
Hey Frank, thanks for sharing.
Wow, That corvette v8 was really stuffed in there.
I'm not going to duct air to the radiator. I just going to bring a lot of air into the whole engine compartment and exhaust it all out through the radiator. I will use the 2 donor fans to push out the air.
Bob
Bob
This picture reminds me of my son.
I usually don't like to post pictures until I have something done.
I just spent 7 hours wiring the underside of my dash. I'm about 70% done, before I clean up the wiring with split loom.
Included under the dash:
Battery disconnect switch
Main fuse box, I deleted the small fuse box.
Fuel Pump controller,
starter interlock relay.
Fuel pump relay
Gauge cluster.
Switch panel for Ignition, start, horn, headlights and fan override,
I deleted all steering column mounted controls.
It looks like a mess now, but it should clean up nicely.
Bob
You should see how mine looks right now! Your's is neat as a pin compared to mine (minimal diet)
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Bob, I really like the color. That blue is electric for sure!
Frank
Got to look at the kit today! "Triathletedave" invited me over to see his 818s build and nope I'm not fitting in a stock configuration... So my tank is going in the front like yours. Dave also pointed out many fitment issues with the radiator and piping up front so I think your on target with the radiator in the rear as well.
After seeing Dave's I think I would have enough room to lay the radiator on its side over the transmission and duct some air from the lid deck. I'm running NA so I shouldn't have any fitment issues.
Frank
The most important things in the world have been accomplished by people who don't give up and have just kept on trying...
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Frank, it is easy to open them up all the way to the edge of the opening, don't use that aluminum "trim" ring, you will double the open area...
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Hi Frank,
Not only am I going to eliminate the trim ring, I am going to add a couple of cuts and push the vent open further. See picture.
Kind of like the new vents for the R only backwards.
BobP1040661cut.jpg
Tnx Dan.
Bob you mean you going to stretch inwards the section between your 2 red lines? I thought of that. And fill the voids with fiberglass. Well I can't wait to see your results, very interested.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I cut out 2/3 of that...
P1120117.JPG
once I have an external "scoop" it should capture a ton of air for my IC
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
My car went through a major wire dissection.
Every signal wire was spliced to proper length.
Under dash fuse box was eliminated from the system.
Remove EVERY unnecessary wire.
Converted from Auto to manual transmission.
P1050101s.jpg ggt.jpg
My method for first power up is to put a 3 ohm resistor in the main battery lead. (limits current to 4 amps if there is a short)
All was good except on connector that was not plugged in all the way.
Best of all ZERO ECU FAULT CODES.
Planning on first start tomorrow.
Do you think they would let me SCCA autocross in go kart mode Sunday?
Bob
Can one of you Subaru guys out there tell me about my engine.
My donor was a 2004 FXT automatic. AVCS on intake valves and DBW. Some have told me the engine has STI internal components.
What exactly does this mean?
If I put a bigger turbo and IC with a tune. Will I be at 300hp/300ft-lbs and good to go?
Bob
Bob, just review the AMod class rules, meet them, good to go. You will need a harness for example...
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Nice, very clean looking wiring on that panel! Can you recommend a good de-pinning tool? I have one for VWs but I'm guessing it won't work on Subie connectors.
Bob and Mikes first start Video.
Plan to be go karting this week.
Michael and I were surprised at how quiet it was without a muffler.
How much is the CAT quieting it down. Will it be a lot louder without a cat?
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 09-20-2014 at 11:30 PM.
The car Idled today for 45 minutes before the fans kicked on. Is this normal?
Bob
What were the temps?
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
In about 10 min the engine block got to 185F and the exhaust manifold 335F turbo 350F.
At start the radiator was at 92. The top starting getting hot to 180 in about 15 minutes.
The bottom of the radiator took about 40 minutes to get to about 170F.
At 45 minutes the fans came on low and ran to about 5 minutes. At this point the bottom of the radiator dropped to 130F.
The more I think about it, this all sounds good.
Other info.
Fuel system all good. No leaks. Put 2 gallon in tank and gauge just a hair over empty.
Cooling system, all good. It sucked in about 8oz after engine cooled off.
Electrical system, no shorts or opens found yet. headlight and tail lights not wired yet.
ECU had 4 fault codes.
1. no serial communication with missing automatic transmission.
2. Rear O2 sensor not heating. it was not mounted yet.
3. & 4. evap system problems. We don't have an evap system.
So all codes were explainable.
All dash gauges seem to work ok.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 09-22-2014 at 10:31 AM.
Congrats on the start! Very satisfying with the harness diet! However I am bit jealous as I don't have my engine installed yet.
very nice. I like the out-of-box thinking on the cooling system.
Most of my cuts were in this panel.
ggt.jpg
Then I made all the wire that go to the front about 10 ft long.
Once I had all the components where I wanted them, I started cutting and splicing again.
Bob
Mounted my G-tuned Shifter tonight.
I know it doesn't have the bling of a the k-tuned shifter. Our goal is to autocross next week.
The bling is on the back burner.
No Duct Tape, but a lot of 200 mph zip ties.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 09-24-2014 at 09:21 PM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Bob how does that seat feel with the cross brace against your left leg? I would think I would remove it. Is it bothersome? I plan on Kirkeys as well...
Frank
The most important things in the world have been accomplished by people who don't give up and have just kept on trying...