Quiny's 818s build

[Hindsight]

Congrats on both the first start and first Subie engine build. Dont down play the latter either. Just being able to rebuild any engine puts you in a pretty exclusive club!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great Job Quiny,
I'm right there with you progress wise.
Bob

[Quiny]

Struggling with the ride height, I did manage to get 4.5 inches of clearance but I had to preload the driver side rear till I almost ran out of threads on the coilover. The passenger side rear needed very little as well as the front driver's side. The passenger side front needed quite a bit, not as bad as the driver's side rear but much more than the opposite side. It almost seems like the frame is twisted. Anyone else run into this? It worries me that the spring preload is so different from side to side. Hoping to go-cart this weekend. I think I followed Wayne's instructions correctly about making sure the rear lateral links are parallel. I used a straight piece of flat stock across them with a angle gauge and made sure the inboard reading and the outboard reading where the same at ride height. Adjusting the upper trailing arm really effects that reading. That cheap HF digital angle finder works really well on the front to determine caster.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Struggling with the ride height, I did manage to get 4.5 inches of clearance but I had to preload the driver side rear till I almost ran out of threads on the coilover. The passenger side rear needed very little as well as the front driver's side. The passenger side front needed quite a bit, not as bad as the driver's side rear but much more than the opposite side. It almost seems like the frame is twisted. Anyone else run into this? It worries me that the spring preload is so different from side to side. Hoping to go-cart this weekend. I think I followed Wayne's instructions correctly about making sure the rear lateral links are parallel. I used a straight piece of flat stock across them with a angle gauge and made sure the inboard reading and the outboard reading where the same at ride height. Adjusting the upper trailing arm really effects that reading. That cheap HF digital angle finder works really well on the front to determine caster.

Hi Quiny
I just adjusted my ride height also.
Sound to me you have the corner weight messed up. All you weight is on front right and rear left.
And very little in on left front and rear right. Like lift a box from opposite corners.

Take a look at the 2 rear springs and adjust each spring to the mid-point of where they were at.
The repeat for the front end.

I'll bet you end up still at ride height and even corner weights.
Bob

[Quiny]

Thanks Bob, I will try that. Do you know of anyone that rents corner scales?

[Quiny]

It's go kart day!! No codes starts and runs good but it still has a hesitation. It looks like my problem is the scaling on the MAF sensor. I used a cheap MAF housing and it flows way different from stock. I scaled it roughly from idle to about 4500 rpm in the garage and it got much better but until I can drive it for a stretch it will have to do.

[Quiny]

another

[Quiny]

Should I start installing the rest of the aluminum before I start mounting body panels?

[Quiny]

Since it runs drives and doesn't leak I figure time to start some of the aluminum panels. I think they would be more difficult with the body on so I'm going to install the ones that don't impact the body install. 10 minutes into that thought and I think I will make some more modifications. There is a big gap on the splash shield below the lower control arm. I don't see any reason not to close it up, I can imagine a lot of road debree getting stuck in or through that big hole. I also added some pics of my intake, I don't like it very much any have some good ideas?
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[Quiny]

This should be step 2 after installing the rubber plugs. Fit and drill these pieces. 101_0937.JPG
They are in front upper triangular splash shields. They would be a piece of cake if the MC, firewall, control arms, column, shifter cables, etc.. were not in the way. It took all night last night with a right angle grinder and a bunch of very short 1/8 bits (Harbor Freight double sided worked well). My arms still hurt from all the awkward positions required. I still didn't get as many rivets as I wanted I may go back later and drill through from the other side. I think I have seen these mounted differently but I think this is the way they were intended to be mounted. Even if you just fit and drill them at the beginning you could rivet them at the end and use self tappers were the rivet gun will not fit. Maybe step 3, was the new step 2 the vroom vroom sound?
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[Boog]

Pic 3

I thought that panel was attached to the outside of the square tube. Am I way off here? or is this a tire clearance measure?

[Quiny]

The lower piece goes on the outside(tire side) the top piece goes on the inside. I could be wrong but the front piece will not fit if you install the top triangle on the outside. You would also have to really cut it up to fit.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

here is a picture of eric's sheet metal
erikh.jpg

[Boog]

The lower piece goes on the outside(tire side) the top piece goes on the inside. I could be wrong but the front piece will not fit if you install the top triangle on the outside. You would also have to really cut it up to fit.

here is a picture of eric's sheet metal

Ok, I see what you are talking about now. Thanks for the clarification.

[idf]

Thanks Bob, I will try that. Do you know of anyone that rents corner scales?

Saw your comment re corner scales. I am also in MA (Hingham) and have a set I'd be happy to let you use. I'm a few steps behind you in my build. Best to reach me at [email protected]

[Quiny]

Thanks for the scales Ivan, they worked perfectly. I got cross balance to 49.5% and 50.5% with half a tank and me sitting in it. Ride height is correct and all is good, onto the body.

[Quiny]

Figured I would clean up all the leftover wire before I start the body
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[Quiny]

101_0941.JPG101_0942.JPGStarted with side sales and rear fiberglass. The manual leaves out the 4" hole saw required to install the taillights also I highly recommend opening the direction light mounting holes with a 3/16 bit if you intend to use the #10 self-forming bolts. I also recommend that if you don't own a belt sander that you get one.

I need to find a lighter sway bar, the 20mm bar I have hits at full lock and pushes the bar into the spring
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[Bob_n_Cincy]

I need to find a lighter sway bar, the 20mm bar I have hits at full lock and pushes the bar into the spring
101_0943.JPG

Quiny, have you done an alignment yet. The top of you front tire might move out away from the sway bar.
Bob

[Quiny]

I did a "garage alignment" but its not the tire or rim that hits it is the top of the knuckle (the ffr bracket from the knuckle to the upper control arm). If I were to move caster to 0 it would not hit.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I did a "garage alignment" but its not the tire or rim that hits it is the top of the knuckle (the ffr bracket from the knuckle to the upper control arm). If I were to move caster to 0 it would not hit.

I thought if you hade less camber in it, It would move the bracket away from the sway bar.
Bob

[john g]

For the stop light holes, I used the gasket from one of the lights as a template and then cut the hole with a rotozip bit in my dremel. A bit crude, but it worked.

John

[Quiny]

Cutting the shifter shaft worked out well, I have about an inch of clearance now.
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[Frank818]

Quiny, what distance is there between the end of the gearbox support frame and the bumper?
Unfortunately the pic above is angled so I can't judge.

[Quiny]

Quiny, what distance is there between the end of the gearbox support frame and the bumper?
Unfortunately the pic above is angled so I can't judge.

About 3/4" tough to measure since its not flat at that spot in the bumper.
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[Frank818]

Those are nice pix to finally show me how it fits there. Tnx a lot Quiny, much appreciated!

[Quiny]

Trying to watch the Patriots and center the body, I think I'm just distracted by the beating the Pats are giving Denver. I am trying to pull the side sails tighter together and I can't. It's almost like I need to trim the outside mounting plates so they don't hit the fiberglass at the top of the rear wheel wells. I was one of the first to get Mechie's brace and I have it adjusted all the way out and I think it would barely fit. I think I'm missing something. The ratchet strap works really well to pull them together I just don't want to snap any fiberglass. Any suggestions?
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[RM1SepEx]

I need to trim those two "pads" on mine too... It's important to get those distances correct and if you twist the body there too much, you make the seams crooked. I used a piece of 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle

PS My plan is to bend those tabs a bit to improve fit, think big honking adjustable. Crank it down and apply gravity to get the offending corners down...

[Quiny]

I need to trim those two "pads" on mine too... It's important to get those distances correct and if you twist the body there too much, you make the seams crooked. I used a piece of 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle

PS My plan is to bend those tabs a bit to improve fit, think big honking adjustable. Crank it down and apply gravity to get the offending corners down...

that's a great idea, I have just the adjustable for that task.

[Mechie3]

I can't remember if I did or didn't trim those. I do remember them causing me trouble.

[Quiny]

Thanks for the idea this worked really well, made everything much easier.
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[Quiny]

Went to the junkyard today and found a 13mm rear sway bar. I need to clean it up but it looks like it will fit with no clearance issues. I will show pics later. I also installed 1 inch spacers and it brought my wheels almost even with the fenders. After trimming the side sails and refitting I still see some fitment issues. I can get the sides even based on the shock mounts but they seem off looking at the tire clearances.

Can anyone that has moved past this point tell me where this bracket should be? before or after the sail. I have one of each(one side in front and one side behind)any pictures would be appreciated.
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[RM1SepEx]

You are welcome, my friends and I joke about good ideas, we worry about running out of our allocation of a handful every year!

my frame pads don't have a slot... #17

measure the distance from the square tube to the point of the fender, make it even on both sides...

P1120235.JPG

mine are exactly 8 inches and the bracket almost kisses the fiberglass

[Quiny]

The difference in stabilizer bars is pretty significant
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Here is the 20mm bar installed
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Here is the 13mm bar installed, much more clearance and nothing hits at full lock.
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[Quiny]

Still playing with the fitment of the side sails. To get the gaps to look good and center the body I had to mount the driver side sail a little more forward than the passenger side. The passenger side had the 5/8" space that the manual calls for and the driver's side is about 1/4". All other measurement points equal side to side. I have also found that not only are a good supply of clamps needed but ratchet straps have been very helpful.
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[Quiny]

Picked up an aftermarket transmission mount. It should reduce engine rocking with the added benefit of being 1/4" thinner so it will level out the engine a bit more. It's really heavy, not something you would want to add if your looking to reduce weight.
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Here is a question for someone ahead of me, do these triangular front door cavity block off pieces go with the lip covering the fiberglass or on the inside of the fiberglass. They fit better on the inside but I think it would look better with the fiberglass edge hidden.
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[Quiny]

Continuing with mounting the body. From the windshield back it isn't so bad but I'm having a very hard time with the front. Most of the problem is there are very few mounting points. I have it close but it's more of put it on, take it off, repeat.

[Mechie3]

What's your chassis number? Early chassis didn't have a mount for the rear of the fender near the windshield.

[RM1SepEx]

Picked up an aftermarket transmission mount. It should reduce engine rocking with the added benefit of being 1/4" thinner so it will level out the engine a bit more. It's really heavy, not something you would want to add if your looking to reduce weight.
101_0961.JPG

Here is a question for someone ahead of me, do these triangular front door cavity block off pieces go with the lip covering the fiberglass or on the inside of the fiberglass. They fit better on the inside but I think it would look better with the fiberglass edge hidden.
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cover the fiberglass

[Quiny]

I haven't been able to do much lately but here is my progress to date. I have the rear fiberglass mounted roughly where it will stay, still fighting with the front fenders and nose. I just seen to have to force the fenders more than I think I should to get them to line up. It's too cold to think about any body repairs but I figure I should have everything ready for the spring. I wired and installed the headlights and taillights. I may have to do something different for the plate light, they are not long enough to illuminate the front of the plate using the FFR supplied bracket. Other than that everything worked well, blinker speed, reverse lights, hazards, etc.. Being in Massachusetts I will need a front plate as well, at least for the inspection. Here are some pics to date.
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I did run into an issue with the windshield cowl. The only way for me to get the recommended dimensions is to cut out the area around the master cylinder reservoir. I was planning on getting the wiper kit and I don't want the cutout to show. I was planning on using Mike's relocation kit at some point so maybe I should do it now. Any one know if the cutout will show with the wipers? Any suggestions?
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