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*Sigh*
What's everyone's solution for this issue? Or is this a result of the engine I'm using/motor mounts? I was thinking I'll make a bracket that sits on top of both the reservoir and the engine, like a little bridge. That should keep it at about the same height(above the turbo) and allow it to bolt on without getting in the way.
Or am I overthinking this?
Craig (Mechie3) is selling a bracket to solve this issue. Essentially what you are talking about - a little bridge to push the reservoir off to the side. I haven't bought it (yet) but did see it in person and it appears to be an effective and simple solution.
Mechie3 solution is very clean.
I have a radiator hose the goes to the back of the car through the space where the tank was. So I mounted it on top the bar.
degas.jpg
Oh, and I overthink everything, my engineering nature.
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Get Mechie3's bracket like many of us have done. And, you'll be helping one of the most helpful 818 builders.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Awesome! I knew Craig would have something. Gives me an excuse to get a few more of his parts...and a t-shirt
He used to be a regular at the autocrosses I now attend, so I've heard a ton of good things about him and his meticulous work. Can't wait to get some 818 parts from such a respected guy.
Craig is missed at those events in CNY
Some 818 work this weekend, and a bunch of truck work! Since it was so close to having no rust, we decided to repaint the hood to eliminate the very little rust that was on the car. Sanded it down nearly to bare metal, primed, and painted. This after primer coat #2 of 3:
Also, DA polished the rest of the truck. Took some serious slime off of it. DA polishers amaze me every time. (you can see a little "before" of the hood in this shot... lots of little chips and rust spots forming)
So, while running brake lines, I realized that if I followed the manual, my aluminum panels wouldn't sit flush with the frame. Here is where I'm talking about:
Instead, I was considering running them inside the passenger compartment, against the outside wall, like below. Anyone see any issues with that? Am I just missing another obvious solution?
I'd mock up your interior panels and maybe even do their final install before you decide on placement of the brake lines, clutch lines, and coolant pipes. You'll be kicking yourself at the amount of work you've caused yourself if you do it the other way round.
Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!
Aren't the 'interior panels' for the walls of the R on the exterior? Mine definitely don't fit on the inside. That was a large part of the reason for considering running the lines inside.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
The interior panels I was supplied don't fit anywhere well. With my R build I ended up fabbing a few panels and altering others. Thus my suggestion that you sort the panels first, then route the lines.
Now I need to see a picture of this new panel I didn't get.
Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!
Yup! I am however using the exterior on the exterior, as far as I can see now. And no panels for the inside. Unless there's a good reason, I just see it as extra effort and extra weight. Plus, the visible frame is badass if you ask me
Here it is! It fits so nicely on the outside that I can't imagine using anything else.
Even has a nice little spot for the lower rear and upper right corners to fit in.
FWIW- we (my company makes auto-aluminum) always stencils on the non-prime side of the aluminum. Since the fiberglass will cover the outside, I put the prime (non-stenciled) side facing in, where a driver/passenger would see it (since the driver and passenger exterior metal are mirrored). I'm doing this wherever is possible with the supplied panels.
Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 10-07-2014 at 09:16 PM. Reason: clarification on footnote
You lucky *******. That panel would have made my life so easy.
Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!
My build date was 3/12/14, and I got the panels
John Huft -- #154 R
So, here is my idea for seat mounting. Kirkey brackets for my Kirkey seat with these pieces of 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes. Thoughts?
Edit: I should say that I measured the height, and about 1.65" from the floor is great for steering wheel position, fine for visibility, and seems to keep the shoulders at ~15*. The center harness piece clears the frame. Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that.
Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 10-08-2014 at 08:43 PM.
"Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that."
Have you considered fastening the steel pieces to the floor?
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
That's essentially what I did for mounting my seats. Doesn't mean it's the right way, but it's what I did.
For my son and I, we need the seat as low as possible to keep our heads below the roll bar. We have 4 5/16" rivnuts in the "X" bars and 4 matching holes in the bottom of the Kirkey seat to match. Our seat is also bolted similarly to the top square tube in the rear fire wall. No seat brackets at all, Rasmus would be proud.
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
How/where are you bolting your harness lap belts?
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-09-2014 at 10:00 AM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
I used the Kirkey brackets as well. I was able to line up the mounting holes on the inboard brackets with the cross braces in the frame. Then I cut the tops off the square tubing and welded the flat stock in flush to keep things as low as possible. I only had to do that on the outboard bracket to get good support. Rick
Wow, that sounds like a great idea. Any pics, Rick?
Thanks for the replies, all. I think I'm sticking with it as-is for now. Going to run some bolts (4 per bracket) through the frame, and then separately bolt the brackets to the 2" wide steel. This will give me a little flexibility in terms of forward/backward mounting, I think. What's the ideal seat angle? Anyone have an idea? or is it purely a preference thing?
Here it is! I actually don't -love- the angle it's at; I think I'll move it back a hair still. I took some pics of belt angles and such but they're all blurry. Seems like it's ~10-12* down on the shoulders, and nothing is hitting the seat. What do you guys check for the seat being in the right position? Pedals and wheel feel comfy (I did the wrist test on the wheel and it's perfect), I can see, and the harness clears/is at a decent angle. Anything else I'm missing?
Mocked up (not yet tightened down; that cleaned up the non-straight part):
And installed!
Hate to backtrack but if you use the side panels on the outside isn't there a large space between the firewall and the outside panel? Mine came with those outside panels but no inside so I cut them up and made the inside panels. Also my seat mounts818 interior 001.JPG818 interior 002.JPG818 interior 003.JPG818 interior 004.JPG
I think I'll have to be a little farther along(rear firewall installed) before I figure out exactly what that needs. Is that the only panel you're planning to run there? Those seat brackets look good, and light.
Did some brake plumbing. They're in good spots, I think. Used a rivnut to install the Willwood proportioner (with some McMaster 1/4's I had lying around). The ends do extend a little bit past the brackets. Is that a problem?
I don't really plan any side by side racing, mostly auto x and hill climb so an Intrusion panel is not high on my list. If the situation changes I'll add a panel on the outside.
Tons of work done this weekend. Transmission installed and coolant lines are underway. Brakes got some progress, too. Coolant line question for all you R guys with later build-dates- How are you running the lines through the front of the aluminum siding if you have the solid aluminum wall? Shown in my second picture below.
Here's some pics:
South Bend stage 1 clutch and ACT Streetlight flywheel installed
Installing the trans
Andrewtech transmission installed!
Found a home for all my stickers!
Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 11-10-2014 at 07:11 AM.
Great progress!
I put anti-intrusion panels on the side and used the aluminum on the inside but I ran the cooling pipes down the side and used a 2.5" hole saw to cut through the 1/8 steel panel and also the aluminum on the inside and will also run the dead pedal to cover up the pipe so no one gets their foot caught and there will be some protection from a burst hose
WP_20141026_006.jpg
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
So, I was in Brazil for work recently and didn't get a whole lot done. Did brake stuff this weekend and ran into a little problem
http://i.imgur.com/j7LUuyK.jpg
So close, yet so far away. What does everyone recommend for this? Remounting the hard line bracket? Cutting up a "medium length" brake line and reflaring myself? Brakes look good otherwise.
http://i.imgur.com/iib2CLg.jpg