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Thread: Donor Car

  1. #1
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    Donor Car

    In the research stages of building a MK4 Roadster. Looks like I may need to go the donor car route due to cost. I understand that a 87-04 Mustang GT will be needed. Are there year(s) that work best for the build and which would be worst? Aside from the obvious when picking a donor car is there anything to look out for?

  2. #2
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I would look into salvage yards which will do a pallet of parts for you. This way you can get the best of each. For instance, you don't really want a 94 engine and trans but you do want 94/95 front spindles. The rear axle is another problem. You want Fox width but also disc brakes. I forget all the details but am pretty sure there is not a Mustang axle that has all you want so the question is which has most of what you want.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Personally, I'm not convinced donor builds are necessarily the only way to go to do a budget minded build. Kind of depends on what you mean by donor build. Also depends on your budget for other things like paint, wheels/tires, etc. Many factors determine the final overall cost.

    In the early days, pure donor builds really were that. Obviously included the engine, trans, and rear axle. But also often included most of the suspension and steering parts, brakes, wiring harness, gas tank, even the gauges. More and more, guys are replacing these donor parts with replacements from FFR or the aftermarket which are new and typically upgrades. At that point, the pure donor concept becomes less and less the most economical approach, aside from the work and effort to obtain the donor, strip the parts, rehab as needed, etc.

    Strictly speaking, the earlier Fox Mustangs were the original donors and probably the easiest since many of the parts drop in. But the later versions like SN-95 can work too, but may require some research and work. If you're personally not familiar with the differences and what is required, there are several forum vendors and many experienced builders who can help.

    For the record, both of my builds have been non-donor builds. Although with some rebuilt parts.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  4. #4
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    In my opinion with some very rare exceptions the days of doing a straight up BUDGET donor build with an '87-'93 car are over. The ones that are left are either so clapped out that very little can be used for anything other than cores, or if the car is clean and solid the purchase price takes it out of the "budget" range. I'm convinced that the most cost effective way to do a donor build now is with a mod motor car, the later and lower the mileage the better. With that said though I agree with edwardb that there are some nuances with various model years that come into play as you make your plan (one notable area being spindle and rear axle widths which play into wheel & tire choices), so research fully before making the leap into a donor.

    Good luck,
    Jeff

  5. #5
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    I bought a 1996 Mustang cobra with 68000 miles on it that I plan to use as a donor, the car was rolled but damage was minimal and I drove it this summer and everything seems to be in good working order. I'm planning on using engine, trany, diff., brakes, well pretty much everything without mods., and hoping there won't be any real problems. Any advice about my plans would be appreciated.

  6. #6
    Senior Member jakester888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Personally, I'm not convinced donor builds are necessarily the only way to go to do a budget minded build. Kind of depends on what you mean by donor build. Also depends on your budget for other things like paint, wheels/tires, etc. Many factors determine the final overall cost.
    edwardb is absolutely right.

    I went the donor route and am now 80% complete at GoKart stage. I spent more time and money removing, cleaning up and finally replacing worn and broken parts than it would have cost me for the premium kit.

    Spend the money up front now, you'll save money & time in the long run.

  7. #7
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    All great advice guys....thanks.....This is pretty much what I expected....

    So I want to build a daily driver, this will be no garage queen. For a budget build what would be the best motor, tranny, rear combo? I love the way the '86 5.0 motors sound and would like the car to have a mild cam so I get "that" sound. Performance is important but reliability is #1 priority.

  8. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beetlespin View Post
    So I want to build a daily driver, this will be no garage queen. For a budget build what would be the best motor, tranny, rear combo? I love the way the '86 5.0 motors sound and would like the car to have a mild cam so I get "that" sound. Performance is important but reliability is #1 priority.
    Hard to beat the Windsor 5.0 for simplicity and reliability. It fits easily into the Roadster. Aftermarket parts are plentiful and relatively reasonable. There are many sources, from engine builders, salvage, crate motors, etc. I haven't personally used it, but many highly recommend the Ford Racing M-6007-X302 crate motor. http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=11752. Couple local guys in my area have them and they run really well. Not too expensive plus have a warranty. Many on this and the other forum have gone this way. For this size/performance engine, look at a Tremec T-5z transmission and 3.55 diff gearing. Well proven combo what will give you a nice lively car.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    In my opinion with some very rare exceptions the days of doing a straight up BUDGET donor build with an '87-'93 car are over. The ones that are left are either so clapped out that very little can be used for anything other than cores, or if the car is clean and solid the purchase price takes it out of the "budget" range. I'm convinced that the most cost effective way to do a donor build now is with a mod motor car, the later and lower the mileage the better. With that said though I agree with edwardb that there are some nuances with various model years that come into play as you make your plan (one notable area being spindle and rear axle widths which play into wheel & tire choices), so research fully before making the leap into a donor.

    Good luck,
    Jeff
    I totally agree with this. I originally figured I would do a donor build to save money. I decided that I wanted a Windsor, so I started looking at 94 / 95s, figuring lower mileage. Then I found out about the transmission specific to those, which you don't want. Then I started looking at Fox bodies. As we all know, they have a pretty solid following. That being said, they are either very expensive for what you will be doing or they are so worn out that there is nothing worth using.

    I went all new and am very glad I did. But, I did not end up doing a budget build.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clancypm View Post
    I bought a 1996 Mustang cobra with 68000 miles on it that I plan to use as a donor, the car was rolled but damage was minimal and I drove it this summer and everything seems to be in good working order. I'm planning on using engine, trany, diff., brakes, well pretty much everything without mods., and hoping there won't be any real problems. Any advice about my plans would be appreciated.
    I would consider using a new wiring harness. Old wiring can be a constant source of issues. If you are planning on standard Halibrand replica wheels, you will need to change to Fox width axles. I think you will need some adapter caliper brackets for that.

  11. #11
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    was planning on using the wheels that are on the mustang, they are 18" wheels not the standard wheels

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by clancypm View Post
    was planning on using the wheels that are on the mustang, they are 18" wheels not the standard wheels
    If you look at the very early MK4 build Jesper Ingerslev did he used a donor similar to what you have and kept the 18" wheels. His build is used in the Mk4 instruction manual and is in the "How to build a Cobra" book.

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