Your column spacers are much longer than FFR's, I realized I needed to drop the column lower than FFR recommendation so I will use more spacers in there as well. How tall are you?
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Your column spacers are much longer than FFR's, I realized I needed to drop the column lower than FFR recommendation so I will use more spacers in there as well. How tall are you?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Not tall: 5'7". I didn't expect to be worried about legroom, but with the provided gas tank I actually had to sweat it (a bit)
I stacked a 1" spacer over the ones F5 provided. Glad I kept the steering column tilt function: I like the wheel a bit low but getting in/out is tough with a 300mm wheel. Raising the tilt gives me enough room to get out, and dropping it once seated feels correct.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
5'6" down here, so that might explain why we both lowered our column.
I also have a 300mm s/w and found out that if I use too long spacers it was quite difficult to get out. I made a small compromise and my mock-up is a little higher, but with my s/w the bottom is curved upwards (inwards to the center), which gives even more space than a D-shape s/w. And yes, I also rise the tilt when I get out and lower it back after I get in. Looks like we found pretty much the same solutions/habits, might be to consider for anyone around our heights.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Agreed. Like I said, I was pretty shocked how tight the drivers compartment is using the stock fuel tank. I think the wilwood pedals make it a bit worse -I think they protrude further thank the OEMs (at least mine do until I get the throw trimmed out with the actual braking system installed). I can't imagine how anyone taller than 6' is going to be comfortable as the kit ships (and I've been following all the build threads, especially the 'wookie' builds).
That said, I mocked up the shifter and found it at a pretty good height/position without having to underhang mount it in the center tunnel like I've seen in other builds. The shift leaver is a few inches from the steering wheel in 1st position and the height is just under the midline of the wheel when lowered.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
First part of the added rear-firewall I’m working on is a piece of .090 Al with insulation on the inside riveted to the frame behind the fuel tank.
With the clearance issues between the rear wheels and the GodSpeed trailing arms I had bought a set of 8mm spacers. They gave good clearance, but the studs were not long enough to get good engagement with the lugs (1-2 threads max). I found a set of 40mm studs on ebay that seemed to fit the bill (didn’t want to go with a crazy long set of 3” ARPs). After cutting out the wheel speed sensor ring (not going to need it since I’m not planning to run traction control) there was enough clearance to push out the old studs and insert the new ones without disassembling the hub. There were also 50mm length studs available that may have been installable the same way, but these were ‘easy’ and the 40mm length is good enough for now.
I’m travelling next week (business); but after that I should be home with a bit of comp time and hopefully FIL will have been able to finish the motor refresh so we can try to make some real progress
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Now I remember that thing I wanted to do before I installed the rear gas tank firewall… the brake lines. Ideally the brake lines should have been run ‘in front’ of that firewall to keep them out from directly in front of the engine. Since I installed the lower gas tank rear firewall rather permanently I had to go about this a different way; I pulled the gas tank and routed the lines.
For now the lines are just roughed in with tape to make sure everything is happy. Until the engine is installed and clearance is verified I'm not going to attach them
BTW this is another of those things I’ve never done before; if you have critiques/advise I’d be very grateful.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
I’ve managed to complete the cooling loop rebuild, installed the alternator and wrapped the exhaust header… so that’s some progress
However, I’ve not completed the engine as I’d hoped: the intake manifold & engine wiring harness has been fighting every step. I’d planned to replace the WRX stock intake manifold with a JDM STI long runner manifold, and my lesson is that cheaper isn’t always better.
We picked up a JDM STI manifold from a forum, but it’s apparently a v5 or v6 manifold (I didn’t buy it…). There are enough differences that this is becoming quite an adventure. The injector connections are different between the two models (expected) and the entire throttle bodies are different (not expected).
I tore down the engine wiring harness to remove the TGV sensors and leads, and have now spliced in the injector harnesses from the JDM unit on to the WRX one.
Next problem is mating the WRX throttle body to the manifold; they are significantly different, especially on the mating surface between the TB and the manifold.
Originally I'd hoped to be able to use the JDM TB; but the connections are completely different between the v5/6 TB and the later TB designs. By my thinking the easiest fix is going to be buying a TB spacer to give a few mm clearance for the idle control valve and deal with the pressure sensor routing that isn't present on the JDM TB.
If I can get this last issue addressed I may have enough of an engine to install in the car, which would be a really nice milestone to hit.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Damn. No need to apologize Bob! Taking another look now that the engine is coming together it definitely looks like the collector & down bend of cyl 2&4 will be dragging. Serves me right for using an el-cheap-o ebay header. Hopefully next week I'll know for sure, but it looks like I'll be shopping for a replacement (the donor parts were UGLY and tossed long ago). I've used ported/polished & coated OEM headers on my WRX, but they're so heavy...
I don't recommend the ebay header route. It took a lot of adjustment to fit it to the exhaust ports (never a good thing). The flanges were almost 1" too wide, so we used a come-along to pull it back in-line. The tube walls are pretty thin, the welds are actually OK, except for the tightest radius turn from cyl 1&3 to the up-pipe, that whole area is suspect.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Finally got the last of the parts I needed to mate the WRX throttle body with the JDM STI manifold. Even better, WTFBBQ it adds horsepowah!!! I though only stickers could deliver this kind of performance increase:
I needed to fab a small aluminum plate to cover part of the JDM STI TB bypass; hopefully the extra gasket and RTV holds or I’m going to be learning to weld aluminum.
The top of the engine is pretty much done now; sensors and controls are wired, fuel rails are done. Just need to complete vacuum, coolant and fuel plumbing. Getting so close to being able to drop the engine in...
New headers showed up, so they're installed and wrapped and hopefully good to go (as long as the slip joint doesn't leak)
Last edited by mikeb75; 10-09-2014 at 03:42 PM. Reason: pics got killed & header showed up
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
This is the black widow engine.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I decided before installing the engine I need to complete the seat bracket & anti-intrusion panel I want on the floor. I have 1x2 steel tube (same wall thickness as the main frame tubes) that I’ve cut to size. I tacked them into position and then tried to weld them in place…
Never welded before today -Interesting skill. Was using flux core; the welds were pretty ugly and I kept losing sight of the butt seams, but after two rounds of weld, clean, grind and re-weld I’ve to the tops to where I want them. I think I got pretty good penetration but I took my grinder and made everything flush because I am putting a 1/8 steel plate over the X and rails so serve as bottom protection.
Next I’ll tip the frame and try to do a better job on the other 3 sides of the rails (FIL bringing over a MIG to try) and the plates.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Finished welding the braces and the anti-intrusion floor pans, did not go exactly to plan (go figure). Welds looked bad but seem solid enough and had good penetration to the metal.
But we did finally drop the engine into the frame; yay. Had to take header off to have clearance and dinged the powder-coat in 1 place.
But the engine is in the frame
A couple of days more to clean up some under car bits and install details and this chassis might be a roller... but finishing the OEM harness is taking quite a while.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
The intake manifold is just the gift that keeps on giving… Having used the spacer to seat the throttle body caused the A2A IC to not fit (either the stock WRX or the STI one I want to use) and both Y-pipes don’t line up to the turbo… and the throttle cable isn’t even close. And YAY; the VF39 is having interference issues with the shock tower brace.
So a new ebay aftermarket TB is in the house. This was probably the right way to go; it looks like it was cut from a piece of billet and has a flat back-plane, even with the IACV motor attached. Looks pretty good for $80.
Need to find a slightly longer silicone 90 elbow to connect the turbo to the Y-pipe; or may need a bunch more depending on our final mounting solution. Right now looks like it should fit in the FFR recommended location and leave just enough room for a top plenum.
To deal with the waste gate interference issue… we’re taking a radical approach; but not cutting on the brace. I’ve never been confident –given my rank amateur welding ability- that modifying the tower brace would be a good idea. First thought was to shorten the up-pipe 1” to gain clearance; but that invites a host of other issues since we’re reusing the turbo brackets.
Now, we’re attempting to modify the VF39 WG actuator. The goal is to shorten the actuator standoff and modify the actuator rod and mounting to gain about ½” of clearance. We did check how much engine movement we can expect (remember –we’ve installed Torque Solution engine and transmission mounts). Jacking under the oil pan or engine resulted is the whole chassis being lifted before there was any movement of the engine. I think this is promising at least as far as controlling the engine movement is concerned .
So we’re doing an experiment in turning a $600 part into a $1200 part. If the modification fails we’ll be welding the WG shut and paying for an external waste gate up-pipe and actuator.
(stay tuned to see if this one succeeds :P )
A few other odds-n-ends are done: the AI panels are painted, sound-deadener applied to the underside, the lower firewall is attached and the harness fittings are mounted.
The coolant tubes are mounted on the engine and the sides. Not really a fan of the over-under snaking of the flex line… might have to do something about that in the future.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
I had that same thought for harness mounts. I'm probably at a minimum going to do that for the anti-sub belts. I'm debating using the supplied seat mounts as belt mounts. Your solution is probably the best/lightest.
I love your wastegate "experiment". It is exactly what I thought of when I first looked at the picture.
That said.... I probably would have cut the up-pipe to be a little shorter. But I love what you're doing there.
I agree, moving the turbo down would be a 'better' solution. I think the clearance between the shock tower brace isn't enough. I've looked at taking it apart and re-welding the cross bar in 1" higher... but again poor welding skills and that is a lot of re-manufacturing. A larger turbo is going to be difficult in the stock location.
Unfortunately, moving the turbo down via shortening the up-pipe just isn't a simple thing:
As the turbo moves 'down' it also moves forward (since the up-pipe is slanted). That creates interference issues with the compressor side and the engine block ...and the intake path ...and the turbo mounts. With the restrictions In the WRX the turbo location & up-pipe are required, but it's a less than optimal solution. Because of budget & build restrictions the 818 has the same limitations -if you go the 'easy' stock way... but if you're willing to think outside the box... interesting alternatives become possible (all limited by skill and $$$).
If (when) the engine goes; an interesting experiment would be to get the dimensions and mounting requirements of the forester turbo diesel FA20DIT or the FA20 out of the BRZ... that's a really interesting engine/platform (but still quite new).
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Someone on here had notched out that cross brace to fit a larger turbo. It's one of a few spots I wish FFR had designed in a little bit of headroom. I don't remember off hand, but there's a few more spots where you're pretty much locked into a singular solution without major fab work even though it's an area where builders are likely to want to experiment.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
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Looks to me like you might just want to build that last piece from flange to flange again.. similar to how this guy did it:
http://www.raktron.com/wrx/uppipe.html
If you doubt your welding skill, you could always tack it how you need it, then have someone with more experience weld it tight for you.
Mike, sorry to hear about the set backs. I'm running a bigger internally waste-gated turbo as well. If I end up having clearance issues I will most likely notch the upper strut support brace and reinforce it with some welded plates. In the end, I think this provide the greatest amount of clearance around the turbo with fewest ripple effects.
Turbo’s coming along at FIL’s house, so in the mean time I needed to move the chassis around in the garage. Riveted on the bottom Al panel, buttoned up the back of the car, put trans fluid in, slapped on the rear tires and dropped it. I didn’t quite realize just how low the car would sit… A six year old high.
Relocated in the garage I have room to work on the front crash box, radiator, etc. The radiator attachment was a bit tricky, using a different (older spec) model so some custom fabbing was required; but it’s in properly so I can finish running the lines and the shifter cables.
Next up … wiring harness <shudder>.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
The height, or lack there of, is a little startling the first time you take it down off the dolly or jack stands. We did that last Friday night and our immediate reaction was 'Wow, this thing is low.'
Larry
I have the same rad and I think your rad supports are absolutely genius considering you did not machine the supports! I should have thought about that, I consider myself stupid now that I have seen your pictures, thanks to you, plz continue that way. lolll
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
No genius here; just proof that if you stare at a problem long enough a solution drops into your lap. Note the abundance of 'speed holes' as I worked out the solution...
Used 16mm M10 bolts, nuts & washers to attach the OEM top mounts to the radiator support braces; a touch of adjustment with a BFG corrected the angle and voilà; radiator mounts to attach with the rivnuts to the crash box.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Yes, you can shorten the waste gate shaft on a VF39 and get (almost) enough clearance to the strut tower brace.
Modifying the turbo was surprisingly easy; after cutting off the top by removing the weld with a Dremel the waste gate shaft drops slightly –which just happens to be almost exactly the thickness of the actuator arm. After taping the waste gate closed and marking the cut off height on the shafts (again with tape), cut across with the Dremel and voila; both shafts are re-sized and the correct height difference between inner and outer shafts to reattach the actuator arm.
With the super stiff engine mounts and offsetting the actuator arm in front of the strut brace the clearance should be enough; running OEM engine mounts… not sure that will be enough.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
In jest I’m going to name this car “Glacier” because of all the time we’ve spent going two steps backwards for every step forward…
Worked more on getting the modified turbo situated. After finishing modifying the wastegate actuator (and learning how it works) we were close to plumbing the turbo… until we saw that we had a tear in the turbo inlet pipe… and had lost the MAF and airbox during disassembly. Nothing a couple of bucks and ebay couldn’t fix
Slowly the wiring is starting to take shape. The external fuse box is mounted up front behind where the radiator will be. I’ve already spliced in the extensions for the alternator leads, just waiting for some additional split loom to cover it before I finalize the install there -and figure out how to include the master switch.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Wow, the clearance issues on the turbo are terrifying, esp considering that is an OEM turbo. We are going to have to figure out a solution for ours, since it is significantly larger...
Otherwise, looking great! How long do you think until first start?
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
It's an OEM turbo, but not from any one of the specified "good" donor cars. That said, it is a little frustrating that there's several spots where FFR designed in a single solution and anything beyond that requires much more fab work than if they had added 1/2" extra clearance by altering a design slightly.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
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With the movement I observed in a short go kart test I'm thinking under load you could have the stock turbo hit the brace. I've went to Custco mounts hoping it will make a big diff in movement. I now have a turbo blanket and your heat shield installed and the clearance is virtually zero. Fingers crossed
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Yea, a bit more clearance on the rear tower brace would have been very nice. I've looked at disassembling it to move the cross bar up 1/2" and it's outside my fabrication skills. I think someone who is moderately good could do it; but that just ain't me. We'll see if we have enough clearance with the really stiff engine and transmission mounts; will make an interesting video for sure!
Not sure about a timeline for start up - The wiring is coming along pretty well (except for the rats nest that will be living behind the center console) but the cold weather is limiting my time in the garage to work; and the evap controls look to be another show-stopper. We might have trashed something important (and expensive) from the charcoal canister which was unrecoverable.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Make it easy on yourself and ditch the entire evap system
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
I still have most of my evap system and don't plan on using it, right down the road bro
Have actually made good progress on situating the wiring harness. The ECU, fuel pump controller, relays and engine harness are in pretty well. The run to the front is laid out and I’ve got the front (internal) fuse box in a pretty good spot (well… I’m happy with it for now).
It looks like it will tuck up under the dash nicely and still be ‘accessible’ (if I’m willing to do a handstand in the footwell. There is still a big messy bundle that will be hiding behind the center console until after we get the car running and the electrics tested & verified. We were afraid to do much more trimming and I don’t want to pull or cut any more leads until we’re sure the work we’ve done hasn’t killed the harness.
After we get everything started and running & tested I want to go back and splice/re-run each wire to make the rats-nest more manageable.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Happy new year & best wishes for 2015! Haven't had much time to work on the car due to travel & holiday with the family, but did steal a few hours on Sunday with FIL to get some tasks complete.
While finalizing the cooling plumbing I actually encountered something that installed easily… because of the weird intake manifold. Where everyone else has to relocate their upper coolant tank it looks like I can install and go
I have enough room between the tank and the frame to get the cap off and get a funnel in to add coolant (it’s the little things that bring the most happiness…).
Up front finished laying out the path to the radiator, needed a bit more customization… since we’re not using a 2002+ radiator. The inlet and outlets are on the opposite corners, not really a big deal –it was harder to get the radiator installed in the car than to finish the plumbing. However I did pick up a rubber hose with a bunch of bends (I forget who originally listed the part number) to loop over the steering rack. That hose was slightly too large, so we added about 1” of cut pipe to the radiator outlet to make for a tight seal. Now everything looks happy-happy… until we fill the system and find all the leaks I introduced.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
After a long and waaaaay too cold winter to work in the unheated garage it’s time to start getting some work done!
Finished up the brake and clutch lines, including a series of Tee connections at the master cylinders to include some pressure transducers that will eventually be tied into a data logger. Now only need to mount the reservoirs –received the windshield wiper kit over the winter so I can correctly locate the reservoirs now.
Picked up a set of LCD gauges from my friend ebay: boost pressure, oil temp & oil pressure for less than $100. I had an old 3 position gauge pod I never installed in the WRX. I figure a little glue and it will look right at home on the dash.
The pressure transducer is buried in there -bloody thing was huge. Tapped into the second oil gallery plug after a $14 adapter (shipping was more than the part –yay!)
Only about 25 items left on the check list before engine start [:)] [:|] [:(] ...
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Added a pair of ebay horns from China (really – shipped from China!), Bolted down a small Odyssey battery and have nearly completed the remote reservoir installation –but I don’t plan to trim the feeds until I verify the reservoir location with the body.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
(Should have called last update). Finished up most of the remaining engine bay work: mounted and plumbed AOS & waste-gate solenoid, last of coolant lines, almost all the vac. lines are accounted for, installed the coolmat on the firewall, put the intercooler in place and mocked in the ebay boost pressure sensor. All that is left is finalize the fuel lines and filter.
Had to get creative with mounting the turn-signal canceling mechanism to the ebay steering wheel boss I had bought. JB Weld… is there anything it can’t do?
Up front I still need to complete the battery, fuse box & fan wiring and get the power and ground set up for the gauges and check for what chassis grounds are missing from the harness.
9 items remain on the start-up list.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits