All the front aluminum is fitted, all the dead pedal pieces and side aluminum have been fit and drilled. all of it was dropped on for powder coating as well as a few suspension parts. I am waiting for my finishing kit (Canadian customers) as well.
I have gotten the front aluminum painted and installed.
Installed the pedal box and masters (with some swearing)
made a bracket for the throttle pedal and mounted it.
Installed the throttle cable.
Installed the steering column (pressed sleeve and shaft, home made aluminum adapter plate (not as nice a RoRi's)
Now working on mods to recess the shifter (like Jamie's) and recess the parking brake handle.
Oh and my theater room is now full of 818 parts, all the body,door panels,windshield, windshield frame, a big box of aluminum and all the boxes of parts! the wife loves it!
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
Todd, nice gas pedal mount, it just gave me an idea. I was thinking of soldering the mount or pedal, but I was waiting until I fit my undercarpet and all that stuff to make sure the pedal is properly align. But you removable mount is great, I'll try to do something similar. Are the bolts on the mount and frame going through both sides of the tube? If not, you tapered the hole and then screwed the bolts in?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
I just used 5/16 tek screws, It shouldn't take a lot of load. If it works free I will rivnut it. I just did not want to do rivnuts as the bracket would sit ontop and not tight to the frame.
I did not weld the inside joints so it would sit up tight to the tube.
I beveled the outside corner to get a full penitration weld.
well I have gotten some more fabing done, the electric parking brake is done just need the tank in before I hook up the cables and wiring. I got the rear suspension on minus the coil overs
I have started the roll bar mod, I got the roll bar off and the chassis ground down. I cut and welded the 2 ends together to make a hoop that has all the same measurments as the old bars. I am gonna take it down next week to have the local race shop bend up 2 hoops for me and give me a piece of straight pipe to replace the cross piece.
Nice customization! What did you use for an electric actuator for the parking brake? I don't like my parking brake handle position and am researching alternatives.
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
I just used a 2" stroke 275 lbs push/pull 12 volt actuator and fabed up brackets and adjusters. It works really well. still need to do wiring and a switch to let you know the brake is on. I am gonna tray and use the stock e-brake wiring and light on the guage cluster.
Well I got the hoops made up yesteday, they could not do the hoops in one piece no one around could do more than 90deg bend, they could have done 2 bends with a slight flat spot on the top but the angles would not have matched the OE on the ends. I had to use 2 of them butt welded together and added a plug in between. she welded up and ground down nicely. only thing left is to make up the diagonal pipes for between the hoops for strenght. This will make a nice looking mod thanks to Aloha for the help and idea!
Here are a few pics of the finished product minus paint. LOL I must have done something wrong I made a diagonal bar for the passanger hoop and it fit perfect in the drivers hoop as well! I guess everything is pretty close! Dec 26th 20014 007.JPGDec 26th 20014 005.JPGDec 26th 20014 006.JPG
Its real hard to commit to cutting up a perfectly good frame but It needs it for the looks, I would kick myself if I didnt do it
If you have cut off wheel, grinder, welder, time, someone to bend up the steel (mine was $200 with tubing,bending,sluggs, extra piece of 1 1/2" OD 3' long) and most of all patience!!!!! to measure and measure, take bits off an a time and make sure all the measurements (double check triple check) and tack weld good so things dont shift when welding.
here are a few picks cleaned up with paint (POR 15) It lays down nice and looks like powder coating.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
nope totally done for looks and I love to fab! all the measurements were done to the same as the single bar, the end bars have the same angle as the single bar and the hieght is the same. the single bar is good but the 2 humps in the fiberglass on the rear engine cover beg for 2 humps on the bars.
nope totally done for looks and I love to fab! all the measurements were done to the same as the single bar, the end bars have the same angle as the single bar and the hieght is the same. the single bar is good but the 2 humps in the fiberglass on the rear engine cover beg for 2 humps on the bars.
Cheers
Nice job Todd. I like it. It's nice to be able to make it visibly "your own", I would say.
For anyone looking at home painting or touch up, check out the KBS Rustseal lineup. I think it is a bit better than POR15. It's a one part epoxy and it also comes in clear coat. I've been thinking to do some of my aluminum with the clear, for anyone wanting that look. They have a rust remover and cleaner as well. All are excellent I've found. You can only buy it online I believe. I recommend several small cans over one large can for preservation reasons. (I have no affiliation, just like the product)
well I have been busy with work and waiting on some parts. I managed to get out yesterday and got the seat mounts and harness mounts done. now they are done I can move onto the custom center console.
nothing special, I keep my POR inside the house. I stir good and decant just what I need. I painted my stuff at the end of the day after the heater had been running all day in the shop so the steel was not super cold. painted on with a brush and it lays down nice. only problem was dust and dirt getting in it. but where I painted it is not reall visable but it does match well with the powdercoat.
just make sure to paint past what you need to down to a joint as it blends better than stopping in the middle of a bar.
70 degrees Dan, that's the proper min temp for Por and most chassis saver type paints. They can be applied in some colder temps but the result is sub par.
Hey Gary, It was good to meet you as well, I am looking forward to see your AWD electric 818 progress! Good fabricating and planning out so far. you are welcome to head my way anytime.
Here are a few pics from the start of my console, It will be all closed in with thin sheet metal and covered in vinyl to match the dash and door panels. I was going do a floating console from the rear and have it fully open from the shifter forward but as I started this seems to flow better with the dash style.
Looks good. I was thinking of doing a floating console as well. I want to give the passenger a few places to hold on. Maybe i will only expose a little section of tubing.
Great design, Lumpy. Curved surfaces help look production rather than kit car. You've given me some ideas for improving my console. Thanks. I look forward to your next photos.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I am using thin walled 3/4 steel tubing. I welded flange nuts in the end of the tubes and drilled holes thru the bulkhead. then just used bolts from the engine bay side.
Ok here is an update on the center console with a few pics. I have all the steel work done just some clean up grinding and holes for shifter, cup holder and a few switches.
For the racing guys where every ounce counts I weighted the console. stock one was 5 Lbs and mine was 18 lbs so I have added 13 lbs to the car. For me this is fine I am not looking for super performance I am more about making a nice looking car. and this console looks out does the FFR console.
I have lots of ideas for other things to do all over the car, I am just trying to get all the major welding and modding done so I can clean and paint the car chassis again, then start assembly again. my shifter is a little farther forward than most so it works good.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
THAT'S why I love this site! Creative designs and the fabrication skills to pull it off. I'm looking forward to your next photos.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).