My crossover has the heater inlet above the bell housing. Thanks for the info, I think I am going to do some cutting and welding to reroute.
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My crossover has the heater inlet above the bell housing. Thanks for the info, I think I am going to do some cutting and welding to reroute.
My wife has given me a ME a Mothers Day gift that beats hell out of what I got her. To my big surprise she has ordered my AP Calipers and Rotors from Essex Parts yesterday. Plus I get all day tomorrow to play in the shop, she is on her way to Minnesota to spend the weekend with the grand kids. I would have liked to gone too but have to work today and Monday. Oh well I guess I will have to work on my wiring harness install/routing, finish the fuel lines and fuel filter mount to check off my long list.
More progress, got in 5 hours over the weekend. MR2 shifter, cables and rear linkage installed, and works and feels great. Radiator and plumbing installed.
Radiator.JPGRear Shift linkage.JPGMR2 Shifter.JPG
And my AP Brakes arrived from Essex Parts.
Brakes arrived.JPG
Presto, she has 3 sisters, one is single
Very nice looking work and other cool "stuff". Nice to see someone else using something other than Wilwood.
Last edited by Scargo; 05-18-2015 at 03:03 PM.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
nice fit on the front, I am using the same caliper and rotor on the rear. I will have to fab up a radial caliper adapter for the rear.
AP Brakes.jpg
Those are some brakes!
Looks like with a little work I can make the front Radial mount adaptor work on the rear. I have used AP Brakes on a number of my cars, the quality and fit has always been impressive. Plus the bonus is I am saving 9lbs a corner over the OE calipers and rotors.
I have also found that the rotors last much longer than others. (I don't have any experience with Wilwoods)
Last edited by Mitch Wright; 05-19-2015 at 08:48 AM.
What size are those? Do they make an adapter for STi rears? If the four backing plate holes are the same (STi and WRX) I have STi backing plates that I modified so they are clocked for the caliper to be at the front, or 9 o'clock position. Nothing else is on the plate. I removed the other, thinner plate for the emergency brake, etc. They are also notched so that they slip on and they just use the most important three bolt holes. Can post pictures. Sell cheap. It turns out my Stoptechs came with their own custom aluminum bracket that replaces everything. Stoptech's bracket is just for racing.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
I like the idea of the Stoptech bracket, I actually have thought of machining up like what you have. I wonder if the radial mount bolt spacing and rotor off set could be the same. Could I ask you to take a few measurement on what you have. I am using 299mm rotors, I don't have the hat offset handy but can do some measuring.
I have eliminated all but the backing plate as well.
Thanks,
Mitch
Last edited by Mitch Wright; 06-18-2015 at 01:57 PM.
Great, now you have me thinking of a different shifter linkage. Great work on getting that MR2 linkage working.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Scargo, thanks
Chedda, I have taken a basic approach with the MR2 shifter, others have really done some cool stuff with the mods they have done to the shifter and linkage.
I am really happy how it works and feels.
My backing plate dimensions are as follows:
Offset from plate mounting surface to caliper mounting surface: .355" (plate is .160" thick)
Radius of caliper mounting holes: 4.775"
Space between centers: 4.470"
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Perfect, I am headed to Chicago this afternoon back on Friday to measure up what I have. If I am lucky and I can buy the mount from Stoptech it can save me some time, money and work.
Thanks for the heads up.
Last edited by Mitch Wright; 06-18-2015 at 01:58 PM.
I don't know how you translate that stock backing plate piece to my Stoptech piece and how it might adapt to your AP Racing calipers. I assume yours slide over studs like my Stoptechs do. The offset of those holes and the stud diameter could vary and my bracket might push your calipers too far out on the rotor.
I guess you've seen the pictures of my brackets in place? They might make a smaller bracket for their 282x25mm rotors but I don't see a closer match.
My plates I thought I was going to use.
FullSizeRender (50).jpg
Last edited by Scargo; 05-20-2015 at 12:18 PM.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
I have done the same thing to my backing plates other than notch it which is a great idea. I do like the rear Race mount you got from Stoptech that is exactly what I envisioned having to make. It will be interesting to see if it will work with my AP calipers and rotors.
Scargo,
The stars didn't align, the radial mount spacing on my AP calipers is 6" center to center. But spending a little time yesterday mocking up the rear caliper mount looks to be a easy mod. I can make a plate that bolts up like the Stoptech mount then bolt up the AP front mount to it. I will pick up some aluminum plate next week and get to work.
Cool. Invention is the necessity of machinists! Something like that...
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Well I made the decision a while ago to go with a dry sump for my R, I am ready to place the order this week. I am going with the Element system, I believe this should be the last big expenditure for a while.
I am getting close to my first start and will do that with the wet sump then switch it over before I install the body.
It still looks like I will come in at a little over $30K all in running a stock 2.0L with a VF37 twinscroll and pocket port on the heads. So not too far from my original budget.
On to finishing up the rear caliper mounts and getting it to make noise.
Very impressed by your budgeting to be ~$30K and having the element dry sump and AP brake calipers/rotors! Awesome!
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Not doing much to engine and doing the work myself helped other than the wiring harness. Selling off donor parts paid for the brakes and a few other things. A lot of things I had from other projects. Steering wheel, New Seat Belts, some of the 5/8 rod ends, some of the swedged tubes for the rear suspension, AN fittings and hose, spacers and reasonably stocked fastener bin, using a STi Air to Air intercooler. Not being in a big hurry and taking time to hunt for deal on what I wanted and calling in a favors for deals from friends in the industry helped a ton.
Now if was to start including that stuff and materials I had the number would be higher, it makes me feel better not to.
And to be fair the car is not a driver yet so I am sure I have forgotten a few things that have not made the list.
Haven't up-dates my thread in a while since I have only been able to get in maybe 6 hours a week on the car but progress is being made.
Brake and clutch lines are completed.
Brake lines.JPG
Frt Brakes LH.JPG
Enlisted the help of my brother in-law Leighton Reese and his fabrication shop to bang out my AP rear caliper mounts, just need to weld on a few gussets and they are done.
rear caliper mount.jpeg
All the templates are made for the rear firewall, if all goes according to plan I will have it cut out and ready to install this weekend.
I have all the wiring run and plugged in getting ready for my first start, I have one plug I don't know what it goes too (2004 WRX engine and I wire harness) any ideas.
Plug question.JPG
Last edited by Mitch Wright; 08-31-2015 at 01:57 PM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
That makes perfect sense, thanks Bob.
Wallace,
Getting there, plan is to go kart before the end of the year, and completed this spring.
My brother in-law completed rear caliper mounts for me, thank you Leighton Reese.Rear caliper mount finished.jpeg
Now to make it run.
Very Nice!
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Finally able to get back to work on the car after family and work commitments and vacation, my wife wouldn't buy staying home and working on the car is a vacation.
Anyway got a day in yesterday and finished the firewall and L&R kick panels.
Left Hand kick panel.JPGFirewall.JPG
Went through and made sure all the brake lines were tight and ready to bleed the brakes this Saturday.
RH R brakes.JPG
Fuel cell install Sunday, at least that is the plan.
Fuel cell complete with surge box and pump installed for good, and bolted in the car. Though it will come out a to install the fire wall and I am debating weather I am going to install the sheetmetal cover on the hump.
IMG_1995.JPGIMG_1997.JPG
Fit the dash, it was a bit twisted so it is clamped in place and needs to remember its shape before I mark and weld on the taps for the cam lock fasteners.
IMG_1994.JPGIMG_1996.JPGIMG_1998.JPG
Need finish plumbing fuel line and return, a few more 10 minute jobs (that take hours) add oil, water, fuel, battery and start it up.
Looking forward to having 2 weeks during the holidays to make some real progress.
Last edited by Mitch Wright; 12-05-2015 at 09:29 PM.
Finally settled on a location for my AOS and KB oil control valve.
IMG_1999.JPGIMG_2001.JPG
Hi Mitch,
your aos and oil valve will interfere with mounting the hump block off fire walls.
hump.jpg
You might have to do a small mod there.
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Thanks Bob, but I have a different plan for the hump block offs.
Looks like you have your bases covered on that aspect of the build! Have you changed your mind about installing the Element Tuning dry sump kit?
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Yes I have changed my mind on the dry sump for now. I am sure I can get the DS system sorted and spent some time at PRI gathering info but decided to keep it simple to get the car running and basic stuff sorted. If I go to a DS I will do it next winter which will also allow for the check book to recover a little.
Last edited by Mitch Wright; 12-17-2015 at 08:54 AM.
After 1 year 4 months the first start milestone has been met. She started right up with out hesatation which is a great feeling.
Wiring is routed and tied off, consul and switches installed, dash mounted and easily removable, brakes and clutch bled. Alignment and go karting next.